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Discussion in 'Ship & Watercraft Models' started by Scorpio, Dec 29, 2004.
And still from rear seen
Now I have stuck all small parts
Tomorrow I paint the whole underwater ship with quite normal colored varnish on synthetic resin base, but about that point later
With the best greetings in all visit me here
Today I have had a little bit put under stress, therefore, only three photos where one sees the first Color layer. How I paint this and with which Color I describe in the next contribution.
Here a few photos of the painted underwater ship.
Now Layer at least 12 hours to dry must go. Thus I have for the next Color layer till morning time
Your Prince of Wales is looking real good, I can almost smell the paint
Ok guys I know this is too small for the paper models; but I can make the same parts in 1/200th or 1/250th if there is interest
Here are my new barrels etc for this class of ship as Tamiya replacements
Chk it out
The kit parts; they are not bad but need superdetailing for that really special model
Bottom view of the kit parts
My replacement parts before assembly; as you can see; the hard work is already done as the holes will position the barrel perfect in the turret; the axle is the same sizes as the kit parts
assembled and ready to install; just a tiny drop of superglue; compare with the kit barrels and axle
installed; but not glued (not my turret anyways) fits just like the kit part
Menacing to any low flying aircraft for sure; note drilled scale
As you can see; the muzzle is flared and the ring at the end of the primary taper is there too
Get your orders in early; I'm throwing in a special
Axles are just $1.50 each till the end of the month; thats half price
Barrels are same as the Bismarck 10.5cm $3.50 each
Remember the main guns are in the superset; but as some already have my main guns I'll make just the 5.25"
Complete set is
10 X $5 main guns
16 X $3.50 5.25"
8 X axles $1.50 till month end
total with shipping till month end = $128
without mains $78
You are given me a great lesson while building this ship.
I will use some of your methods for my 2nd ship.
Hey Steve - your gun barrels are great but don't stick them in every damn thread - we do have some sections for vendors, you know. 8) This thread is a great tutorial of Scorpio's techniques - let's keep it this way.
I am stupified..wow its been nearly 20 years since I built the Taschen 1:200 Titanic and boy...things have changed...pollyfilla, varnish coats.... I am way out of practice with ship models.
Continue your great work and Ill just hope my kits get to Ireland soon.
This is great looking stuff. I can't wait for more.
Now I might write as promised which color and what for tools I have used for the painting.
If goes around color:
This is quite normal colored varnish on synthetic resin base (RAL 3000
For screws gold has used effect varnish (spray can) also on synthetic resin base.
I use no paintbrush but a sponge role. With the role one can apply much better above all steadily color on bigger surfaces. If none comes into being wander
For the last special color layer I with Terracotta effect varnish do all previous color layers must be really quite dry.
Best of all the whole trunk for 48 hours is dry leave.
This avoids origin from tore on the surface the Quick-drying color layer could come into being.
I have already painted the drive shaft and screws and have prepared.
After the third layer one sees no seam
After 48 hours the whole underwater ship skin is painted with Terracotta color.
With the best greetings
Im utterly stunned at the quality.
I look forward each day to see where you are in this build, and today I am greated with an amazing photo of what you have done to the hull. I might have missed a step, however; after you sanded did you use any filler to account for any hairline gaps between the plates? Not that I saw any, mind you. Just curious whether you had any intermediate steps between the sanding and applying the paint.
By the way, what sort of paint did you use? My translation of "Kunstharz" calls it "synthetic resin", but I'm not sure what that is. Got to admit my knowledge of what's out there is somewhat limited...I know of acrylic and oil based paints, but this synthetic resin is not something I have seen before, unless it refers to something like that used to apply fibreglass.
As always, a very enjoyable update and outstanding photos of your amazing build. Thanks!
You have missed no construction phase. I have used no filling.
After paste from all parts I have smoothed only with the sandpaper the whole one and have painted with color.
The color I uses is not on aquatic base (acrylic color) but
Color in chemical composition resin owns.
With the best greetings
Well, then, you have done another outstanding job of it, sir!
Looking forward to more photos when you can.
The trunk is already a dry! Now I have all before prepared drive shaft together with in addition to belonging props on suitable ones put stuck on. After a few hours of drying time
Has to me the whole underwater ship skin with â€žterracotta effect
Varnish â€žpaints. This was already the last Color layer.
Then I have them screw onto them wave stuck on and they still wave with golden effect Color painted.
Then I have cut out of the construction Card all parts for the stand and have stuck on 3 mm cardboard.
Then all parts low-cut and the cut edges with watercolour dyed and assembled. In addition, the ship coat of arms has found in the Internet and has printed out on photo paper and has stuck on stand. Now thus the stand presents itself