Hello everybody , there is my version of snowspeeder. It is not one of the best, but still it looks like T-47 - Good job Julius. Great model

Good day everyone,

Due to the recent resignation of ekuth, we are promoting Rhaven Blaack to Administrator to help run the site. We feel like he's a good candidate and will run the community well. He will also have our (CrowdGather's) aid in maintaining this site. We are also promoting Zathros to Moderator to assist Rhaven Blaack in his endeavors. If you have any questions you can ask in this topic.

Best regards.

When I first saw Daishi's Model of the Month design and build of the Frost Dragon from the Skyrim episode of the Elder Scrolls game, I nearly badly injured myself, when my jaw hit the floor so hard, in stunned awe! I nearly fell in the bathroom too, as I ran to get tissues because,.... well..... never mind!

Anyway, I would like to present my attempt at building this beauty.

I would like to point out at the start, that I am no gamer. I have never played the Elder Scrolls V game, or any of the others for that matter. I have always loved dragons, and in my younger days, I used to collect all the white metal dragon minatures from The Games Workshop. I had a large collection then, but they unfortuantly have all been lost in the past.
Even though I have only been paper modelling for just under a year, and am not very experienced, when I saw Daishis stunning model, I just HAD to give it a go.
As I have been building only technical 'hard' model designs, so far, I thought I would like to try my hand at biological/figurine type model for a change. And the Frost Dragon is my subject.

I decided to print the model in two weights of paper: 120gsm for the small intricate assemblies like the head, and 160gsm for the rest. I made an error at the printers, as the pages were printed on glossy photo paper, , not exactly the correct texture for a dragon. But, I intend overcoming the shiny problem by spraying the whole model in various coats of matt acrylic varnish.

After reading various comments about the stability of the completed model, I decided to design an internal bracing armature for the legs and wings. To add to this, I also wanted to be able to remove the tail and wing assemblies, in case I ever need to move house, (or transport it to a paper model exhibition. )
I spent a week or so studying the sub-assemblies in Pepakura, deciding how the heck I was gonna achieve all this, as well as building the very difficult model itself!! (What did I get myself into .....?)
I decided to move the joints of the wings to the body, to the elbow joint, instead of at the shoulder. The reason for this was to utilize gravity at the joint, so that I could attach the wings without glue, or any other form of bond, keeping in mind the wire armature holding the wings up, that attaches inside the body.
A bit difficult to explain, but it will hopefully come clear to you all (and me) as the build goes on.
I want to use a strong magnet and plate to hold the tail on, and I don't forsee too many problems with that. I am undecided as to whether I am going to make the head/neck assembly detachable aswell, if so I'll use the same system as the tail.
Most of the armature design is in my head, and I have planned how I am going to build it, sort of... (A lot of the design will involve making it up as I go along.) I am going to have to build the model assemblies AROUND the armature I think, as there are too many bend angles to insert the armature after the model is built.

This model is a tab-haters worst nightmare!!!!!!! But, I stuck to the original design, because there was no way I was gonna attempt this by edge glueing everything. Some say I am a crazy Englishman, but I am definately not insane

I started with the head and neck, which is the most difficult part according to Daishi. I started with the back of the throat and built outwards, almost as if the head is regurgitating itself into existance!!
There are 690 parts to the model in total, so let's start with the first 4, that make up the tongue...

Attachment 114372

I edge coloured all the parts using markers and water colour pencils before assembly. The throat and inside of the mouth were made up and the tongue attached.

Attachment 114373

Next the front parts of the inside of the mouth were attached. The one piece that makes up the lower jaw, cheeks and a small strip along the top of the mouth was attached. That top strip is only about 1-2 mm wide in places....

Attachment 114374

The next pieces were attached which included the first of the many horns on the model. The horns were pre assembled and glued on when the holding pieces were already attached to the head.

Attachment 114375

Next up the ridge under the eyes. (Tab-haters, please look away now....)

Attachment 114376

The two smaller horns were then made up and attached.

Attachment 114377


Back in a bit.......

At the Clarksville Model railroad club in Clarksville Tn, the Guys have rebuilt the big yard removing all of the #4 switches, and going with #6s to make the yard more civilized. also in the interest of simplification they reduced the nearby double track main to single track. these changes opened up enough real estate to a two very long tracks for a through passenger terminal bu the main line. time for an impressive terminal!


the club thread is here. http://www.zealot.com/forum/showthread.php?t=166134 but since I'm going to be doing some scratchbuilding, in what I'm hoping will be a stretch project, that will force me to learn stuff, I thought I would do a thread on the construction here.


The inspiration here is the Nashville TN Union station, a massive limestone pile, with a Tower. An actual model of this structure would be both too big for the scene, but would also be too much work. available Kits did not get me close enough to inspire a kitbash, so I went to the drawing board. well no I didn't.


I had some Ghost line foam core, white foam core with a grid of light blue lines to aid folks with graphic design on the foam core. I started laying out wall shapes directly on the foam core, sketched in window and door locations, and when it was penciled in and satisfactory I traced over my pencil lines in ink, and then cut up the wall sections, and assembled them to become a mock up. I like the look of the building, so I will begin building it right on the mock up, so the mock up will become the base for the finished building, saving me a step.

Usually when I scratch build something, I have some commercial window and door castings in mind that I build the design around, but this time I could not find anything that I was excited about, and this brings me to the stretch part of this project. instead of using commercial doors and windows, I am going to make masters for the windows doors and some other architectural features. so I will be trying to learn mold making resin casting for this project.


I'm going to try to cast the windows and doors and the arches above the windows and doors, and I will cut dense foam to make the rectangular shapes for the cut limestone for the building. there will be a narrower clock tower sticking father out from the center of the tower. the terminal will be above grade with the tracks and platforms underneath the station accessed by stairs leading to the interior of the building.


here we go! adventures in model railroading! oboy oboy oboy, It has been a while since I have made myself learn something

Greetings! Finally got some time to post some pics of my build of Revell-Fan's beautiful Colonial Raptor. The model went together like a dream! Everything fit perfectly, great instructions, no problems at all....That is, nothing attributed to the kit -It's actually a minor miracle it looks as good as it does. In my impatience to finish it, I made the mistake of sealing it with a coat of my favorite finish -Krylon Triple-Thick clear Gloss....on a humid, misty Long Island day. The whole model frosted over. Everything! Wrecked. So I tried to apply some heat with a hair dryer, and this actually worked pretty good, but not completely . So I hand brushed a bunch of coats of Future Floor Finish - I figured it fixes up lousy clear parts, and there was nothing to loose at this point. Well, it worked out great! It cleared up the finish, and made the color look really nice! The model has a semi- gloss sheen now, not correct, I know, but I generally finish most of my models with Future anyway, to preserve them. I guess time will tell if it the two finishes react to each other, but for now I'm happy. The canopy was the other screw up. It went together just fine, but I botched the touch up on the edges....So I Sharpied it solid black. The edge coloring was done with Apple Barrel and Folk Art acrylic paints mixed to match. Hope you like it! Thanks to Revell-Fan for generously giving us all these awesome models. The last shot shows paper and plastic living happily together.
Best,
Mike

I found this model in google sketch up.The designer is Mike Connealy.I transfered the file into Pepakura Design and unfolded it.I made the object to tall so I will have to redo it at a later date.I unfolded the camera and remved thr flaps.The rearanged the parts so they wuold fit the page sizes and be less pages.Then printed it out on cut up poster paper.I made flaps where i thought it was required.Attachment 107796

Hello all,
This is another great model from XenonRay.
Garrus. After Tali he´s my favourite character.
I have started with head and legs.

Hello, everyone!

Welcome to my latest project: a 1:1 scale replica of the Colonial Warrior Blaster from the Classic Battlestar Galactica. I know I shouldn't work on too many things at the same time but I thought this little project would be the perfect opportunity to get more familiar with SketchUp since I am still building my Landram with it. In addition, I had been looking for almost two years for a paper blaster and wondered why there was none available.

The blaster is mainly based on official schematics which were scanned and traced. I also use various pictures from the show, production photos and images of the resin replica for reference.

The model will be approximately 27 to 30 cm long and feature raised details (and if everything proceeds as planned: a working trigger and space for light and sound). I hope to get it ready before the next Cylon surprise attack occurs so that every fellow warrior and war daggit will get his/her own portable means of defense. But be aware:

A blaster will not be effective during an orbital bombardment; in this case man your Viper immediately or just duck and cover.

I am looking forward to your comments. I only wish my creation to be treated wisely, so please don't use it to rob your local bank or to shoot your neighbor's cat. And if you really encounter a Cylon, I urge you to try to talk to these fellows first (choose a suitable topic like "Is there really one true God?", or "Is your programming Windows compatible?"); you may shoot them anyway afterwards. Enjoy!

I decided to start building daishi Normandy SR1 with working lights to set it off. I've scaled it up to 980mm long so she will be big when finish.There's about 35 sheets of parts so i'll be very busy for a long while.

I'm starting at the front of the fuse first. I add balsa in some areas to strength it up & strips of 200g of card.

I'll be going with 5mm SMD super bright LEDs in blue for the engine & i'm thinking of adding dull white LEDs on the fuselarge of the ship but i'll see how it turns out when she is lit up.

While I'm waiting for the LEDs to arrive in the mail i'll start of at the front of the fuselarge of the Normandy.

Here are the pics what i have done.

Ok here's my next project: Frost dragon from The Elder Scrolls V: Skyrim

So far im done with the head (except some teeth) and most of the neck.

Here are some pics:
Image 1
Image 2
Image 3
Image 4

I'm using the model that is already posed and serves as a loading screen. Its high poly so there's no shortage of details.
Model snapshot

(sorry for the bad mobile phone pics)