HMS Hood - scaled down Halinski 1/250

Discussion in 'Ship & Watercraft Models' started by barry, Feb 24, 2005.

  1. barry

    barry Active Member

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    Hi All

    This is a total experiment and as usual I have probably bitten off more than I can chew. Model is Halinski Hood scaled down to 1/250 th, 1/200 th is just too big for me to handle. Even scaled down it is one BIG lump.

    I used photoshop 4 to do the scaling and it is about 1mm out in the beam so this might be a very short lived project.

    There are a number of joins in the hull which are extra as I am using A4 card, so I started by making a 4 ply sandwich for the waterline plate and a 3 ply one for the deck then stuck everything down in a line and hoped and I'm still hoping. It looks near enough so far. I left the plates curing under weights for a about 3 days.

    Now that the ulimate layer is on it's back to sleep under the weights again.

    I have to say come back DN and Gremir this is hard work !!!! I don't feel comfortable with printed kits.

    If it works I shall have something to carry on with after Fuso.


    [​IMG]

    Basic plates

    [​IMG]

    Back to sleep great stuff paper it weighs a ton and distributes the pressure.

    barry
  2. jrts

    jrts Active Member

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    Hi Bazzer

    No not if it works, when it works :D

    If you build it anything like Fuso, it will work great!!

    Keep at it mate and don't let the print beat you

    Another great thread in the making

    Rob
  3. barry

    barry Active Member

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    Hood hull

    Hi All

    Well I got this far she is off the board and sitting flat and ready for the torpedo bulge stringers. I'm a bit disappointed formers W2 and W16 are 6 mm too wide at the waterline, I hope my eyeball adjustments work when the ship's sides go on but so far so good.

    Christoph and Michael have already done a great job on showing how you should build the hull so I will not bore you by repeating their advice and anyway compared to theirs mine is rubbish but when the sides go on nobody will notice. Instead of sticking the waterline plate to the board with selotape this time I used marker pins pushed straight through the plate it worked well.

    I put Fuso in as a comparison for size and like I said Hood is large even at 1/250.


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    barry
  4. Jim Krauzlis

    Jim Krauzlis Active Member

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    Oh boy, oh boy, Barry! :D

    Another great start to what will certainly be an awesome ship! You build so far is great, Barry, and I'm sure what little problems you might encounter will be quickly solved, as in the past. I love the way you get your hulls so straight and symetrical! Must be the packages of paper trick. :lol:

    I can't believe how large this one is, even reduced in scale.

    Looking forward to more of this great build!

    Cheers!

    Jim
  5. barry

    barry Active Member

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    Hood hull sides

    Hi All

    Sorry Jim it ain't flat it's like a fairground switch back deck and waterline plates. The laminations were not as good as I thought probably needed another layer each.

    Before

    [​IMG]

    OK you can jump on it or fix it (if you try and totally blow it, so what it was dead anyway). If the deck is floppy then you can bend it where you want it so make up a load of right angle gluing plates and glue to the top and bottom plates being as acurate as you can. This also helps stiffen the plates as well as giving a good glue area.

    I used a new glue in the UK from UHU called gel + grabs quickly (guess it must something like Elmers). Glue one bay at a time only the deck edge and line up with the top of the hull side hold it until it well stuck then move along bay by bay and you should end up looking like the picture below which I find acceptably flat. Then you are going to have a bit of fun lifting the hull side carefully and applying glue to a bay or two at a time. If you have cut a former a bit low then crack the glue and stick in a bit of packing if the former is too high then carefully crush it (bend it).

    Ok the base is going to be a bit wavy but it will be inside the hull sides and hidden, add some scrap card to stop the edge fraying and carry on to the next cockup. You can also add more scrap card to prop up, push down the armour belts.

    After (Title just in case you can't see the difference)

    [​IMG]

    Happy bodging


    barry
  6. barry

    barry Active Member

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    Hood hull cont

    Ok found another set of batteries shock horror. One other thing don't forget to form the flair of the bow. The sides are not yet glued to the base plate and the bow will need a bit of careful sanding but there is a good chance it will now look ok.

    [​IMG]

    barry
  7. Jim Krauzlis

    Jim Krauzlis Active Member

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    Great write-up, Barry! Nice little tricks to get it all squared away, mate! :D

    Great job on the bow flare...she's looking great!

    Looking forward to more updates when you can.

    Cheers!

    Jim
  8. wunwinglow

    wunwinglow Active Member

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    Hi Barry, neat work, keep it up!

    One thing, I got a nasty pop-up from your image hosting outfit. Took Task Manager to shut it down. No such thing as a free lunch.....

    Tim P
  9. barry

    barry Active Member

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    Pop up

    Thanks Tim

    I thought that it was too good to be true I will go back to the old ways I think thanks for the heads up

    barry
  10. DN

    DN Member

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  11. barry

    barry Active Member

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    Hi Roman

    Thanks for the site info there are some really good pics there. I've probably bitten off more than I can chew it's not a ship I would recommend for beginners. Have to see how far I get with it.

    barry
  12. jrts

    jrts Active Member

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    Hi Barry

    A fine looking ship :D

    Taking it down a size seems to have worked out very well, more when you can mate

    Rob
  13. barry

    barry Active Member

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    Hood hull

    Hi

    Churchill described English battlecruisers as egg shells armed with sledgehammers, I guess this is the egg shell part. If I can I will put a new stemplate in the bow.

    It needs touching up as usual but I am reasonably happy with the end result.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Overall length is 39 inches.

    barry

    ps changed the previous pics to normal so I hope no one gets a popup from them.
  14. Corporal_Trim

    Corporal_Trim Member

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    Coming along nicely, Barry. :) 39" resized to 1/250 ? :shock: No wonder you scaled it down. :wink:
  15. Jim Krauzlis

    Jim Krauzlis Active Member

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    Great going, Barry! :D

    You should feel extremely pleased with the work on the bow, mate, it looks fantastic.

    Wow, 39 inches!! Somebody's going to have to find another room to store her in, or to build a nice, long shelf. :wink:
    What glue are you using, Barry...is it that UHU gel? It looks like great stuff, no shiney parts and nice, clean joints.

    Looking forward to more when you can, mate! :wink:

    Cheers!

    Jim
  16. barry

    barry Active Member

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    Hood superstructure

    Hi

    I seem to spend more time messing about scaling this beast than I do building it, hopefully I finally cracked why my machine crashes all the time doing it (too many pixels per inch). I cut each side wall individually because all the parts are too long to fit on a4 paper I have cut more angle brackets than anything else so far.

    I added in the deck fittings which would be impossible to fit later in the build.

    Definately need a good night when my hands aren't shaking to do the hull touching up and straigten out the lousy seam in the hull side.

    @Jim

    Yes that is the gel stuff and it works well.


    [​IMG]

    barry
  17. cmdrted

    cmdrted Active Member

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    Barry, I don't know what your talking about this looks great :!: Someday I hope to shrink my Hood down to this scale too. You are kinda breaking the ice for us. Good show sir good luck. Ted
  18. Jim Krauzlis

    Jim Krauzlis Active Member

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    Looks spectacular from here, Barry! :D

    I've been trying the UHU "Der Alleskleber" I got from Lighthouse on a throw away cruise ship (really a toy, not a true scale model) and it glues up very well, not the way the water based PVA does...only problem I'm having is how to accurately apply this glue. I tried using a syringe, but the flow is just so slow and inconsistent, beads up a lot, but there must be a better way of doing this. I got spoiled using PVA and a paint brush, I suppose. :roll: Doing large areas straight from the tube is okay, but I sort of miss the degree of control I had experienced using PVA with a brush...any suggestions, mate?

    Keep at it, mate! More soon, I hope. :wink:

    Cheers!

    Jim
  19. barry

    barry Active Member

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    Thanks Ted

    Jim I use a cocktail stick and a bead of glue on the end sparingly and in short gluing lengths if possible.

    I added a new piece of kit to my armourey tonight my wife's old steam iron I think it may help on large areas of waterglued sheets. I didn't dare try it before she dumped it.

    barry
  20. cmdrted

    cmdrted Active Member

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    Well truth be told, I really don't use my wife's vacuum cleaner for the vacuform machine until she is out shopping. There isn't really any danger to it but I know she'll have a cow or something if she saw her kitchen strewn with model making machinery.