Spaceagent-9 2017 build pic threads

spaceagent-9

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Cool! I have to do a build to see what I need to fix.
Probably just gaps due to re-sizing.
Then send it off to GP and ask him to approve it and I will post it here in resources.
 

Revell-Fan

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Using poster paper is a great idea since the model has big areas which are the same colour. I did it with Buck's poster gun and am doing it with the Cylon rifle. It is a bit of a hazzle to exactly trace the lines but in the end you save much ink and don't need to worry about printing errors like fading lines or mis-matched colours. :)
 
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spaceagent-9

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Just plodding along today, made some work on the big STNG ROM warbird, and completed a 25'' Spindrift. I have to enlarge it 1/3rd more before it is 1 to 1 with the hero prop. That will pretty much uglyfy it. Like with Zathros, it would imply be better to use a large sheet printer and enlarge it the rest of the way. only trouble is that it would cost a lot at a store to do so, and not a lot of people have those big printers. It's not my model so I cant sell the large prints.
 

SURFDUKE2001

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I can plot up to D-size so send the files if you can. I'll be able to print it out whole. That is if Gary P is ok with you sharing it?

Have a great day!
 

spaceagent-9

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Not yet, I still have to run it by, he said I could make little color changes, some fixes, but not like I have done with this one. He is very nice, so he probably will be ok as long as I cite on each page that the model was authored by him. I am going to run off another hull sheet of Ron's 1701 enlargement. This time with black printed on the back side of this, lining up the windows might be a big problem. I have never done that, so if anyone has advice I would love to hear it today, pls. big green bird is almost done. I don't know if I will greeble this one or not. just the plates, maybe a few other things.
 

Gandolf50

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Not yet, I still have to run it by, he said I could make little color changes, some fixes, but not like I have done with this one. He is very nice, so he probably will be ok as long as I cite on each page that the model was authored by him. I am going to run off another hull sheet of Ron's 1701 enlargement. This time with black printed on the back side of this, lining up the windows might be a big problem. I have never done that, so if anyone has advice I would love to hear it today, pls. big green bird is almost done. I don't know if I will greeble this one or not. just the plates, maybe a few other things.
Gonna depend on what software you are using... Something like Krita (FREE) will use layers and you could have one part in place import the other as a new layer and set the transparency so you can see through it...move it into place and reset the transparency... ala windows aligned!
 

spaceagent-9

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I was thinking more of coloring the original black except for the windows, then flipping the page over top to bottom, and then printing it on the back of the normal page. except I don't know if that is the right procedure.
 

spaceagent-9

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Waiting for the pizza to cool and for it to decide if its going to rain or not. messing around with filters. So on the RonC 1701, I think that I simply flip the sheet over and print the black stencil on the back and that will work. I hope it does as I have to waste paper and ink.



matt jeffries rbop.png
 

spaceagent-9

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The aft edge of the lower hull of the stng Romulan warbird isn't allowing a join for some reason. It is a 300 % ENLARGEMENT. I'm going to cut and try to over lap to see if that makes it join. I am just going to print out the font and back sections of Ron's 1701 window parts. Here is a sample, let me know if you think I need to flip it a certain way to make the windows line up right. I get what Gandolf was saying about layering in the black modification under the normal hull graphic. I'm just not sure if my cheap cannon printer will do that right. I am trying to have the white card stock light up as a window, so I don't have to cut out every window.
rons 1701 recolor 200x 18 back.pngrons 1701 recolor 200x 18.png


so I will print it back black side, then flip it top to bottom and print the normal graphic. hopefully it will work out. IF YOU KNOW WHAT TO DO PLEASE TELL ME!, I will wait until tonight to print it. Thanks.
 

Revell-Fan

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Oh. I'm curious to see what the printer will produce. I have never had any luck with printing a mirrored page on the back side of the parts UNLESS there were wide-spread areas which don't need to match with any detail on the other side. I suppose there will be alignment issues. I would test it on a small portion of the part to see how well the printer aligns the page.

If it fails I would print the front and back page on two separate sheets. Then cut out the windows on one of the printed sheets to compensate for the paper thickness. Finally laminate bot pages together. This gives you full control over the alignment and also allows you to use different materials for the windows because you could cut out all windows from both pages and sandwich another thin layer of paper or even painted / tinted foil / plastic sheet from packaging materials inbetween.
 

spaceagent-9

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The paper bends when I cut it. It ruins the whole look. I tried to punch out windows, but the over all effect was slight ripples all over the area, ruining the effect. I tried using the fabric tape and it also creates ripples. I'm thinking of using that white poster paper, which is stiffer, but prints glossy. It is also very stiff. I'm still at a loss. Gandolf said to print it in layers, but the top layer comes out very dark on my crappy cannon printer that's 10 years old. I will try the back is black technique and then the white poster paper.
 

spaceagent-9

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Ok, it worked, I got one side as the page, and the back side matches in black, so the windows are translucent. The backside black needs to be flipped horizontally, and then the page of the frontside print of the hull flip over to the right as you turn it. that will line it up. I will try a pic .


those windows there are lit by full sunlight.

100_1771.JPG
 
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