Razor Crest from Mandalorian / Roland Tari

[MikeBer]

I cut a 10mm x 180mm strip of 2mm card and chamfered the ends as shown.



This was glued in place across the body, in line with the panel marks as shown. Note that it does not interfere with the triangular tabs.



The port engine was now glued in place. I found that the best position for it to fit on the tabs was more or less midline although the engines on the real ship were higher in relation to the wing. A liberal amount of pva was spread on the wing tabs and the engine pushed into place.



The model was set in a vertical position to dry before fitting the starboard engine in a similar fashion.



Any slight gaps in the fit were filled with pva using a paintbrush. This would dry clear. To finally cover any gaps in the joints between the engines and the wings, wing fillets have been provided. Print them on 80 gm paper, test fit them and then put a bead of pva along the joins and tease the fillets into place with narrow tweezers. Run your finger along the join to collect any surplus glue.

Once dry, this would not be noticeable (it dries shiny), as eventually the model will be sprayed with clear acrylic lacquer to preserve the ink from fading.







Next step is the armour. I built the parts as they were originally but a few changes needed to be made to simplify the construction.

 

[Revell-Fan]

That looks bad-azz!!!

 

[Awry_Chaos]

Looking great!

 

[MikeBer]

Armour.

These parts are left and right handed so be careful not to mix them up, especially parts AL6 and AR6. If you bend them the wrong way when assembling 6a & 6b, you might think the left one is the right one and vice-versa.

They are also very small so be careful. I’ve put spare ones on the sheet.

I’ve separated part 6 into two parts as I found it easier to assemble. The original part lacked space for tabs because of the closeness of the sides.

I separated part 2 into 3 parts, also to simplify the assembly.

I’ve dispensed with the original part 5 as will be explained when the barrels (part 4) are fitted.

Assemble part 1 as shown.



Assemble part 2. 2a & 2b do not have tabs but are glued directly onto part 2a.



Slide part 1 onto part 2 but not all the way. Put a ring of glue around part 2 as shown then slide part 1 fully into place. Clean up any excess glue.



Now fit part 3.



The barrels (part 4) were then assembled and fitted with a piece of 3mm dowel (I used a bamboo skewer), recessed about 2mm in from the front. The end of a toothpick was then glued into the front of the barrel.



Small rings were made from 0.8mm brass wire as shown. These were then placed onto the toothpicks and a ring of thick superglue put around the top of the rings to form a cone shape.



The stem of the toothpick was painted metallic silver and the cone shape metallic gold.



When dry the barrels were glued in place.



The weapons were now glued in place.





Parts 6a & 6b were now constructed and then glued in place.




This is the reason for the modification.......



A full set of pictures of the ship can be seen here......

https://www.theverge.com/2020/10/27...ar-wars-hasbro-toy-ship-razor-crest-baby-yoda

Boy, would I love to have that model!

 

[Revell-Fan]

Now she has some teeth! The front reminds me of a wasp's head. I'm trying to make a cockpit interior for her but first I'll have to do something else. The picture of the HasLab Crest shows that an add-on piece of the struts and circles at the front bay should be made.

 

[MikeBer]

Now she has some teeth! The front reminds me of a wasp's head. I'm trying to make a cockpit interior for her but first I'll have to do something else. The picture of the HasLab Crest shows that an add-on piece of the struts and circles at the front bay should be made.

Thanks, I'll try that when the landing gear is finished.

 

[Revell-Fan]

You are awesome, Mike! BTW, I have taken a look at your blog. Really neat stuff! thumbsup

 

[DanBKing]

Gentlemen.... Start your ENGINES!!!!!!!

Brilliant build of the engines......... thumbsup

 

[mijob]

Indeed verry nice stuff. :Bravo:

 

[micahrogers]

Lookin great.

 

[MikeBer]

The front landing gear was quite easy to assemble but one of the parts of the rear landing unit is very complicated. I've made it easier to assemble by re-positioning two of the side walls on the long sidewall part and transposing the tabs from the sole onto the side walls to make it easier to glue together.
I am just testing out the final version now.

 

[MikeBer]

There is a mistake on page 09.pdf and Engine 1.pdf so I have uploaded the revised versions.

FRONT LANDING UNIT

Assemble parts FS1, FS2 & FS3. I decide to put a 5mm hole in parts 1 & 3 and fit a 4mm dowel (skewer) in FS2, 15mm long.



FS2 was then glued into parts 1 & 3.



FS4 was carefully assembled.



and when dry, assembly 1-3 was glued in place.



This was then fitted underneath the front of the body and part FS5 was then made and fitted.

 

[MikeBer]

REAR LANDING UNITS

The Rear landing units have been labelled LS(left sole) and RS(right sole), numbers 1 to 7.

I would advise building the LEFT sole first so that you become familiar with the assembly and correcting any mistakes before you repeat the process for the RIGHT sole. Some of the parts are very fiddly and fragile so wait until each gluing operation dries fully before continuing.

The assembly of LS parts 1-7 will also be relevant to RS parts1-7.

Start by cutting out LS1 and glue the side pieces to the main body.



Because the side walls on LS2 are so fragile, I reinforced the bends on the rear with thin strips of 80gm paper.



Now join part 1 to part 2.



Now start by gluing the side wall as shown. This is a bit tricky so dry fit it first.



Carry on until all the side walls are glued in place. Now glue in a piece of 2mm card to firm up the base.



When dry, finish closing in the sole.



Parts 3 & 4 are straight forward. If you want to use a 4mm dowel (skewer) in part 8, cut out the holes in parts 3 & 4. (I will use a 4mm skewer).



Again with part 5, reinforcing strips were fitted on the rear of the small side walls.



Glue the side walls and then attach a 1mm piece of card to the base. Glue the top by gluing at the points shown. When dry, glue along the rest of the tabs, forming the bend at the other end.



Part 6 was also reinforced on the side walls and then assembled, with a 1mm piece of card to stiffen it.



Part 7 was reinforced with 1mm card.

If you did not make the rear sole parts together, now is the time to make the starboard (RIGHT) ones.

I used a 4mm skewer so the tabs were cut off part 8.



Fit the dowels (skewer), 39mm long, as shown but do not fix to parts 3 or 4 yet.



Glue part 4 to the sole.



Dry fit part 8 to part 4 and trim if necessary but do not glue.
Dry fit part 8 to part 3, trim if necessary then glue into part 3.



If you have not built the model yet, I would recommend reinforcing the inside back and sides of the front and rear landing gear recesses with 1mm card.
Attach parts 3 to the hull, locating them centrally in the recesses.



Get something that’s 10mm thick to use as a spacer.
When parts 3 are fully set in the hull, stand the hull on a flat surface, elevated if possible to make it easier to work on and place the 10mm spacer under the rear, behind the rear landing legs and not in the way of the soles which will be fitted now.



The rear landing legs can now be glued to parts 4. Leave to dry fully before attaching parts 5 & 6 to the legs.



Finally, fit parts 7.

 

[MikeBer]

And that is the model finished. Most of the parts were prototype parts so I will now build another one using the final pdf’s.
This is the first time that I have modified a model like this. I used MS Paint.net to do the modifications on each page and saved the pdn file. When I was happy with it, I then saved the pdn file as a bmp file. I then opened the bmp file in GIMP and exported it as a pdf file. It has been challenging but I have thoroughly enjoyed it and now I can have a rest!

 

[THE DC]

Really great build thread!


Makes a beautiful finish.

Who has the kit, now with the paper/scaled corrections?

You make it look so tempting!!!!

 

[MikeBer]

Really great build thread!


Makes a beautiful finish.

Who has the kit, now with the paper/scaled corrections?

You make it look so tempting!!!!

MediaFire

MediaFire is a simple to use free service that lets you put all your photos, documents, music, and video in a single place so you can access them anywhere and share them everywhere.

www.mediafire.com

 

[mijob]

You did a great job on this model. Thank you. I'm looking forward to your next building thread.

 

[MikeBer]

You did a great job on this model. Thank you. I'm looking forward to your next building thread.

Thanks. My introduction to card modelling was a model of my father's ship in WW11.

Le Courbet French battle cruiser from Modelik

:welcome1: I am a newbie to card modelling. I normally model wooden ships (Titanic & Bismarck partworks and Danmark & Victory kits). I will be starting the build on the COURBET hopefully this week. This is the ship that my father came over to England on with the free French navy at the beginning...

www.zealot.com

 

[DanBKing]

Superb final model and execution. Well done!

 

[Revell-Fan]

Wow, she is a beauty! Thank you very much for tackling this project and updating the plans. They look great! I especially like the fact that you have provided an assembly instruction file as well. That is a tremendous help for any future builder. You may put the files in a *.zip archive and add them to the Resources as well.