Launch when ready!

bigpetr

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I figured, I was trying to convince Rhaven Blaack:)

I learnt it on my X-wing build. There I have few seams I would placed oppositely now. Not that I did not think about their placement then, but I would decide differently now when I can see complete model. On A-wing I am working on now I use this "above viewing angle" approach
 
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Revell-Fan

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NEVERTHELESS the seam would be much shorter on the bottom and the bottom would be in the dark because of the top of the cone being longer... Maybe I'll change it and photograph the bottom of the model only! :D ;)

 

zathros

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Instead of having one seam line, step the line so that it forms panels lines. Done correctly, the seam lines need not be symmetric, could be hard to find, and add a 3 dimensional quality, as very thin part printed paper could be glued over the nose piece, that has the graphics, for EACH panel, and the model would be even more naturally textured without relying on graphics. Then the seam line should be following panel lines on the side of the nose, with filler panels, to complete the separated panel effect. People are so used to graphics for panel lines the forget that on aircraft, of space craft, they come from overlapping pieces of metal. That forms the seam line, in reality. Sometimes, when planes are painted, they get kind of blurred, but airlines are using less paint these days because one paint job can add over 500 lbs. of weight to an airliner, sometimes even more. ;)
 
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Revell-Fan

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Instead of having one seam line, step the line so that it forms panels lines. Done correctly, the seam lines need not be symmetric, could be hard to find, and add a 3 dimensional quality, as very thin part printed paper could be glued over the nose piece, that has the graphics, for EACH panel, and the model would be even more naturally textured without relying on graphics.
Great tip! Thank you, John; you have saved me a lot of trouble. thumbsup

THIS is exactly what I was afraid of when I'm tackling the big ones. The nose is divided in three parts and the panel lines do not correspond with the seams. That is due to the original design. They built the mockup / model and put on whatever they thought would look best without following the position the wooden skeleton. I know the evil man with the whip will not stop bugging me to shift the lines or seams to make the nose as smooth looking as possible (I KNOW YOU WILL, THERE IS NO DENIAL!!! :Grin: ). I'll add separate panels which are to be glued over the most prominent seams. I guess that will please everyone, even the whip man. ;)

Of course, I fear he will still be bugging me to provide ALL the panels so that he can glue them over the whole model....... :hammerhead: :drinksmile: :Grin:

I would love to build this one.
This will be the first to be released. Then comes the 1/32 to go along with the Thunderfighter and then the 1/18 for "Big J". :)
 

Revell-Fan

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The glue tabs stretched the front of the nose outwards and were cut off. Now a glue strip ensures a smooth finish.

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Using a rod I pressed the flaps of the cockpit tub against the upper side of the nose.

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A good view at the falling off upper line of the nose.

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Now the inner cone is installed.

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A small part at the tip was still visible because of the thickness of the flaps. It is simply cut off.

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Shape test passed! :)

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The edge will be painted with dark grey later. Now on to the engine block.

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Four tiny circles have to be added. They are glued to 1mm card. It is easier to apply the glue to the block and then attach the circles with a pair of tweezers.

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Revell-Fan

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Thank you! :)

Next step: The fin and wings.

Assembly is pretty straight forward. The wings are hollow. There are many ways to increase stability. In this case I chose a rather unconventional one.

The wings are made of three parts, a core and two plates. The core is basically what you would expect but it has no texture.

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The texture is achieved by laminating the plates to the core.

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There are two reasons for that: First, the lamination gives strength. Second, on the studio model and the mockup have a step around the perimeter of the wing. The plate can be cut a bit smaller to increase this step effect (because it is a real step ;) ). You may further increase it by laminating the plates to some leftover paper before you attach them.

This image shows the step on the original miniature clearly:



You can also see that the orange stripe stop at the step, so there is no reason to paint the edges after the laminations. ;)

The fin:

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The fin and the wings feature two protrusions which are used to keep them in place on the engine tubes.

While thinking about which piece was to be tackled next I glued a plate to the nose. On the original model this plate was concealing one of the mounting points used for filming.

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A view at the studio model with the plate removed:

 
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Revell-Fan

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Next step: The guns.

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Basically they are the same as the ones that come with the Old Starfighter add-on kit.

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The only difference is a new end piece:

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The texture is still fantasy and has to be revised.

On the filming model the end cap has a small rod sticking out. Naturally this must be replicated as well.

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To do so the small circles 46 are laminated to 1mm card and cut out.

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Yep, I know, I'm crazy! :hammerhead:

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OK, doesn't look too bad..! :)

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A quick setup of all parts which have been built so far:

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