Indianapolis International Airport in 1:400
- Thread starter IndyJets
- Start date
And here is the Administration Building in all its glory... standing alone and set in place next to the still-incomplete main terminal landside, with a view of the real thing for comparison. I'm starting to consider now the mechanics of actually rendering this in paper in 1:400 scale... the peaked roof will scale out at 3 feet thick so that might be beyond being able to just build it up with a couple of layers of card. It'll be 0.090" thick in scale. When it comes time to turn this into card templates I will definitely be asking you guys for advice.
I decided the front of the facade might look a little better if I added some depth to it using layers of card. I had originally intended to paint all of this detail on a flat surface. The vertical raised panels will be groups of 3 columns. I figured in 1:400 scale that cutting out the individual columns would be overkill. I will probably still use various light and dark shades of concrete color in order to help enhance the feeling of depth, particularly to accentuate the "T"-shaped cross sections of the columns.
Good idea. @Rhaven Blaack of course would go and laminate the heck out of this! 
So... am I better off to assemble the basic shape (including forming the curved inside corner seen in the foreground) first, then laminate the other layers onto that, or build up the lamination while everything is still flat then form that into shape?Good idea. @Rhaven Blaack of course would go and laminate the heck out of this!
The base layer is going to need to be spliced together from several strips laid end to end, as from the end of the curve to the far end of the structure is 15 actual inches (500 feet in real life), while from the near end of the curve to the other end behind the camera is another roughly 10 inches (340 actual feet). And the curve itself is a 60 foot radius through 75 degrees of curvature. So would I lay the strips end to end then glue bits of paper over the seams from the back side to hold everything together before shaping?
Don't you mean he'd greeble the heck out of this -- putting every and all the details in! I told @Rhaven Blaack has dream project would be to greeble the surface of the Death Star!Good idea. @Rhaven Blaack of course would go and laminate the heck out of this!
Exactly this.
That is a bit easier since the parts are still flat but both is possible.
So do you have any tips on how to apply a scale 6'6" wide (0.195" actual) strip straight and even along an edge that's almost 30 actual inches long?Exactly this.
That is a bit easier since the parts are still flat but both is possible.
@Revell-Fan will have to answer this one, but I would just cut the strip, and laminate to thickness.
How would you keep it straight over 30 actual inches of application? Would it be better to apply it in shorter pieces rather than strips the length of a whole sheet of paper? And I suppose the same questions could apply to the layers representing the parapet wall for the Departures roadway (the horizontal strip halfway up in the pictures above) and the column groups...
I have no idea how to do it, @Revell-Fan is the resident designer par excelance.
You could nake internal formers to get the correct shape and building strenght.
If my math is correct 0.195" = 5 mm. That is doable. Draw the strip as a texture on the main building. This can be used as an alignment guide. Once you have assembled the main structure cut out as many strips as you need and glue them directly to the building. So you won't have to deal with an overlong strip.
Well, I decided before I got too much further into construction that it might be a good idea to bring together everything that I've built so far just to make sure there won't be any unpleasant surprises when I go to actually build it.... it turns out I did need to make a couple of minor adjustments to skybridges B-C and D (I had to extend each of those toward the terminal by roughly 0.003") and I'm going to have to completely redo the bypass road exit bridge coming out of the parking garage level 3 back onto the arrivals road. Turns out the problem there was that I'd mis-measured the angle, causing the bridge to hit the wall of the parking garage too far to the south.
But here we are, looking toward the southwest from a point above the TWA ramp, close to what will be Gate A2. To the left is the parking garage with the bypass road entrance ramp and skybridges A and B-C visible in the middle, the two-level Arrivals and Departures road structure, and the Administration Building overlooking the entire scene in the background. To the right is where Concourse A will attach to the main terminal. Concourses B and C will be off to the right, out of this view, and D will be straight ahead, behind the Admin Building.
But here we are, looking toward the southwest from a point above the TWA ramp, close to what will be Gate A2. To the left is the parking garage with the bypass road entrance ramp and skybridges A and B-C visible in the middle, the two-level Arrivals and Departures road structure, and the Administration Building overlooking the entire scene in the background. To the right is where Concourse A will attach to the main terminal. Concourses B and C will be off to the right, out of this view, and D will be straight ahead, behind the Admin Building.
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COOL!!! May I suggest, when you start building you should work with a reduced scale. That way you save paper and if there is a mistake the loss is smaller. In addition a smaller test model will speed up the build process and give you a first impression on the final proportions. If something looks off you know pretty easily where to attack.
That must be done anyway. If you do it properly you will
a) get a piece which is as solid as a rock
b) recycle lots and lots of cereal and amazon boxes (make sure they do not smell before you use them).
@Revell-Fan Thanks for the good tip here!COOL!!! May I suggest, when you start building you should work with a reduced scale. That way you save paper and if there is a mistake the loss is smaller. In addition a smaller test model will speed up the build process and give you a first impression on the final proportions. If something looks off you know pretty easily where to attack.
Another good tip! Cereal boxes are great to use for card models. Also, it's a good way of recycling Amazon and mail boxes! Thumbs up @Revell-Fan !That must be done anyway. If you do it properly you will
a) get a piece which is as solid as a rock
b) recycle lots and lots of cereal and amazon boxes (make sure they do not smell before you use them).
When I need some corrugated card I also harvest the deliveries we get at work. I once made a GREAT score on it when we got new furniture. Each chair came with two 25x35 cm corrugated card protectors. I was in heaven and took two full bags with me. That was at the time when I made the Cylon sword but I still have some of it standing by. I use it for making bases like the one for the Sandcrawler. My colleagues know that I'm after cardboard but it still freaks them out when they see me sniffing on it to decide if it meets my demands ( #cardboardsniffer ). But hey, I don't want my models to smell like rotten eggs later!
). But hey, I don't want my models to smell like rotten eggs later!