I have used markers and paint mostly.
If you decide to use paint, get a can of sandable auto body primer for the base coat and spray several light coats onto the model.
I then either use the GW colors or Tamiya paints for the color.
Dr Tetrode's Valkyrie build.
- Thread starter dr_tetrode
- Start date
I have used markers and paint mostly.
If you decide to use paint, get a can of sandable auto body primer for the base coat and spray several light coats onto the model.
I then either use the GW colors or Tamiya paints for the color.
Amorman, thanks for the info on painting. Any special kind of markers? Any recommendations? I have seen Sudsy's BMP in person, and I do like the idea of doing that.
Also, thank you for posting these models, I am having a lot of fun working on it. This is the beta build, ie. how do I put it together, model.
Putting the main compartment together.
Found a gap, cause 'tab' and adding thickness by laminating and folding.
Removed the offending tab, and now closes better.
First attempt to use UHU, glue, goes on blue, drys clear, for lamination.
Seems to lie flat, looking better!
I removed the tabs, that were laminated and cut around, because when you score and fold, they prevent the sides for sitting correctly under the top. So, I, the novice, still need something for registration, so I cut new 'tabs' and glued them on where I wanted the sides to attach under the top. I just glued it up and it looks pretty good.
Need more pictures..... Have to send them from the tablet.
Scott ;-) Have fun!
Also, thank you for posting these models, I am having a lot of fun working on it. This is the beta build, ie. how do I put it together, model.
Putting the main compartment together.
Found a gap, cause 'tab' and adding thickness by laminating and folding.
Removed the offending tab, and now closes better.
First attempt to use UHU, glue, goes on blue, drys clear, for lamination.
Seems to lie flat, looking better!
I removed the tabs, that were laminated and cut around, because when you score and fold, they prevent the sides for sitting correctly under the top. So, I, the novice, still need something for registration, so I cut new 'tabs' and glued them on where I wanted the sides to attach under the top. I just glued it up and it looks pretty good.
Need more pictures..... Have to send them from the tablet.
Scott ;-) Have fun!
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- Apr 5, 2013
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Make sure if you a marker for edging you try it on some of the scrap paper of the exact same that is being used on the model so you can see how much it bleeds, and see which marker will not bleed right through the paper where you don't want it.. Seen many a model knocked down a few notches because of that. I think chalk works really well, and can be sealed with clear coat. Marker/paint works well, just have to watch the bleeding through from the inside to the outside. 
Zathros, thanks, that is a good idea, test before using on model.
Got my pictures from the tablet.
Continuing on with the 'tabs', the assembly is finished.
UHU glue experiment, continued. I am really liking this. I cut out the cockpit and scored and folded, and formed it. It stayed flat, while working with it.
I glued the small, additional plates for the cockpit, to scrap card to laminate them, rolled them and they stayed flat and were easy to cut. Cut some cereal box to form a stiffener for the floor of cockpit section. UHU made gluing easy.
Starting the assembly and gluing, that is as far as I have gotten.
I am half afraid of assembling this. No where in the 'instructions', does it show the cockpit in the aircraft, so I am not sure when that goes in. It looks like it would be in this section.
Having fun!
Scott ;-)
Got my pictures from the tablet.
Continuing on with the 'tabs', the assembly is finished.
UHU glue experiment, continued. I am really liking this. I cut out the cockpit and scored and folded, and formed it. It stayed flat, while working with it.
I glued the small, additional plates for the cockpit, to scrap card to laminate them, rolled them and they stayed flat and were easy to cut. Cut some cereal box to form a stiffener for the floor of cockpit section. UHU made gluing easy.
Starting the assembly and gluing, that is as far as I have gotten.
I am half afraid of assembling this. No where in the 'instructions', does it show the cockpit in the aircraft, so I am not sure when that goes in. It looks like it would be in this section.
Having fun!
Scott ;-)
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You are off to a great start. Thank you for the detailed assembly and experience commentary. This thread has so much useful information from assembly to even coloring information. I really am enjoying following your progress.
Dave
Dave
- Apr 5, 2013
- 13,876
- 10,215
- 228
Dry fit. That will tell you if it will go in now, or can go in later. At each stage check to see if it fits, then put it in when you have too.
Thanks, will be doing doing the dry fit thing. I think I am close to cockpit time. The canopy is the next hurdle. So here goes.
Working on final glue up of the front of the fuselage.
Now starting on the canopy.
Now all cut out. How do I make it solid and clear? Packing tape? I will try.
While trying to fold it, the tabs keep getting in the way, so off they go.
Now the fun part! I pulled off about 8 inches of tape, which I then taped down to the cutting board, ie. the first 2 inches, then slid the wood block on top of that and pushed it to the right to get a nice flat piece of tape as it came over the top of the block with sticky side up.
Then I used tweezers to pick up my frame, and place it in the middle of the block on the sticky side of the tape.
Then I laid a ruler on the sticky side of the tape, just off of the block, held it down and pulled off some more tape. Making sure it is tight against the block, I picked up the roll and carefully placed over the frame, sticky side down, to sandwich this frame between two layers of tape. Then I burnished the tape together where the windows are.
Next is to cut the frame out and figure out how to fold and glue it to the fuselage. In this build there are 2 more frames to go on top of this one.
Let the dry fitting begin!
Scott ;-)
Working on final glue up of the front of the fuselage.
Now starting on the canopy.
Now all cut out. How do I make it solid and clear? Packing tape? I will try.
While trying to fold it, the tabs keep getting in the way, so off they go.
Now the fun part! I pulled off about 8 inches of tape, which I then taped down to the cutting board, ie. the first 2 inches, then slid the wood block on top of that and pushed it to the right to get a nice flat piece of tape as it came over the top of the block with sticky side up.
Then I used tweezers to pick up my frame, and place it in the middle of the block on the sticky side of the tape.
Then I laid a ruler on the sticky side of the tape, just off of the block, held it down and pulled off some more tape. Making sure it is tight against the block, I picked up the roll and carefully placed over the frame, sticky side down, to sandwich this frame between two layers of tape. Then I burnished the tape together where the windows are.
Next is to cut the frame out and figure out how to fold and glue it to the fuselage. In this build there are 2 more frames to go on top of this one.
Let the dry fitting begin!
Scott ;-)
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I love your detailed build thread.
The tape for windows is interesting. I have a question though: won't the tape yellow with age over time? Is is special tape?
The tape for windows is interesting. I have a question though: won't the tape yellow with age over time? Is is special tape?
Anything less than three dry fits, and five different cut-out parts (with four ruined...), and a long stream of cuss words will be a smashing success! I do find the tape interesting. Keeps the number of layers down, and thinner, than my experience using acetate on the Vulture. Yellowing is of course a concern, but most cockpit canopies are tinted slightly anyway...
I do not know about the yellowing of the tape. The tape I am using is packing tape used to tape up moving boxes. I have some that are years ago taped in the garage, and are not yellow. The other side of this is that this is the first model I have built, with this complexity, so I am building this one as a throw away (ie. give to the grand kids to play). The techniques I am using are all new to me, so I try and see what works and what doesn't. I have no idea how this one goes together and there are no instructions, so I am guessing all the way through. And Sudsy, no re-cuts, yet! Slow and easy, seems to be working.
The tape had an interesting effect that I will try to capture in the next set of pictures. When I burnished it down, since I am using 110lb card-stock, it looks like there is a second frame in each window. The outline of where the two pieces of tape come together, towards the middle, and where the thickness of the card prevents them from actually sticking. I think it looks really cool.
OK, so now comes a question. Sudsy, you mentioned keeping the number of layers down. This model has 3 layers for the canopy, two with the flaps that look like armor on the bottom and the last has no flaps and is just the frame. But, in the first two layers, 12 and A12, there is some sort of detail drawn on the ceiling, and on the third it is blank on A12a. I have wrapped the first layer with the packing tape, which raises the question of glue.
1. What kind of glue would you recommend for shiny packing tape to paper?
2. What is the detail on 12 and A12 of the model? It is not on A12a, so do I just cut out the middle to let the detail show, and just keep a narrow frame around it?
3. When putting the canopy together, do I just fold the next layer and place on top of the lower layer, or should I cut the next layer apart and attach to the lower layer?
4. Sudsy, what is the reason for wanting less layers, which I think would be so much weaker and subject to 'battle damage' easier?
Dry fit and decision time is here.
Scott ;-)
The tape had an interesting effect that I will try to capture in the next set of pictures. When I burnished it down, since I am using 110lb card-stock, it looks like there is a second frame in each window. The outline of where the two pieces of tape come together, towards the middle, and where the thickness of the card prevents them from actually sticking. I think it looks really cool.
OK, so now comes a question. Sudsy, you mentioned keeping the number of layers down. This model has 3 layers for the canopy, two with the flaps that look like armor on the bottom and the last has no flaps and is just the frame. But, in the first two layers, 12 and A12, there is some sort of detail drawn on the ceiling, and on the third it is blank on A12a. I have wrapped the first layer with the packing tape, which raises the question of glue.
1. What kind of glue would you recommend for shiny packing tape to paper?
2. What is the detail on 12 and A12 of the model? It is not on A12a, so do I just cut out the middle to let the detail show, and just keep a narrow frame around it?
3. When putting the canopy together, do I just fold the next layer and place on top of the lower layer, or should I cut the next layer apart and attach to the lower layer?
4. Sudsy, what is the reason for wanting less layers, which I think would be so much weaker and subject to 'battle damage' easier?
Dry fit and decision time is here.
Scott ;-)
Some more pictures.
The taped part 12, note the detail on the left, what is that?
Cutting, inside first, of the second part A12. You can see the detail here, too.
A better look and the detailing on A12 versus A12a parts.
Cut out A12. Red card in the background used to guide the ball end for scoring and some cutting.
All 3 pieces in same picture with the piece that will be just above them on the left.
Now to figure out next steps and get a better picture of the effect of the tape.
Scott ;-)
The taped part 12, note the detail on the left, what is that?
Cutting, inside first, of the second part A12. You can see the detail here, too.
A better look and the detailing on A12 versus A12a parts.
Cut out A12. Red card in the background used to guide the ball end for scoring and some cutting.
All 3 pieces in same picture with the piece that will be just above them on the left.
Now to figure out next steps and get a better picture of the effect of the tape.
Scott ;-)
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OK, got it. The effect.
So, waiting for replies to my questions, before deciding what to do next.
Scott ;-)
So, waiting for replies to my questions, before deciding what to do next.
Scott ;-)
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Well, well, well, I should do more research. See:
https://wh40k.lexicanum.com/wiki/File:Valkyrie1.jpg
I now need to cut out some more windows!
Grrr.......
Scott ;-)
https://wh40k.lexicanum.com/wiki/File:Valkyrie1.jpg
I now need to cut out some more windows!
Grrr.......
Scott ;-)
On second thoughts, maybe I will greble it, and next time cut out the full window frames. Hmmm...... gun camera? IR sensor, FLIR sensor anyone?
Scott ;-)
Scott ;-)
That is a pretty cool effect on the windows.
I did have a look regarding tape degradation and you can buy conservators/archival tape for longevity without yellowing.
My 2 pence (cents) regarding your question about gluing packing tape surface to paper surfaces, would be PVA.
The stock answer of course, is to test out on scrap.
I did have a look regarding tape degradation and you can buy conservators/archival tape for longevity without yellowing.
My 2 pence (cents) regarding your question about gluing packing tape surface to paper surfaces, would be PVA.
The stock answer of course, is to test out on scrap.
So, less layers by less thickness. I had the cockpit exterior out of 110# bristol, acetate windows, and the onterior in 110# bristol. Three thick layers, therefore more armored than the "real" thing at scale... I ended up cutting and gluing each angled side, front, and top because as you can imagine, folding was not a viable option. If you check the post dates of my build, I think the cockpit took me three weeks alone to figure out... I used my Titebond 3 wood glue on the frames, and Tacky PVA glue on the acetate. I also have some scrap pieces laying around...
For quick reference:
Let me know if you want another angle! I can get you any angle "as built" if that might help!
You do have artistic license! Feel free to branch from the original, lore states many Forge wolds produce varations of the same STC vehicles...