It's a good thing I took images of the Thunderhawk in grey because you can't see any detail with it painted black.
This weekend will see the beginning of the paint process and i still haven't come to grips with the ball turrets.
That shouldn't be a problem although my camera still cannot seem to focus and that is quite serious. I'd really hate to have to replace my trusty Kodak DC290. Anyone have any suggestions?
Instant Silvering and Patina:
Anything that can save me time and give good results is aces in my book; here is a simple way to give a metallic luster to your bare metal surfaces...........
This might not be up to standard for PRO painters but for a mere mortal such as me it yields adequate results and it's fast, did I mention it was fast? and it's economical; I probably won't be able to use all the aluminum powder I have; '3 ounces', in my lifetime.
The entire engine and the wing root used just the powder that was stuck to the lid rim of the jar.
First I applied some really cheap flat black aerosol paint (Walmart generic $0.99 cents @ standard spray can)and let dry overnight.
Then with index finger I applied and rubbed in a bit of the powder and brushed it smooth and into the crevasses with a brush which took all of a minute or two to do the cowl and exhaust. and that's it; no drying time you're finished.
A couple more minutes to do the engine body......
Then I took the pictures.
I applied this powder for the first time on my Warlord Titan over a base coat of flat Black areosol can spray paint Walmart $0.99 cents a can generic house brand
I sprinkled it onto the dried flat paint and brushes the powder into the surface to achieve the desired affect and the all it took. No fixative or covering was needed. After brushing off residual powder the model could and can be handled normally with no drying time and none of the pigment coming off on your hands that I can visually detect although I should caution you should wash your hands before putting them in your mouth or handling food as after all aluminum powder may be toxic in quantity. Also be careful using it around open flames as all finely divided airborne powders are extremely explosive when exposed to flames. I used nothing to seal the models but I suppose that can be done and I suspect the coating can be washed off with soap and water although I have not tried to do it as yet. I intend to paint various areas over the applied powder once I come up with a suitable colour scheme and at that point I shall broaden my dissertation on its uses.
This weekend will see the beginning of the paint process and i still haven't come to grips with the ball turrets.
That shouldn't be a problem although my camera still cannot seem to focus and that is quite serious. I'd really hate to have to replace my trusty Kodak DC290. Anyone have any suggestions?
Instant Silvering and Patina:
Anything that can save me time and give good results is aces in my book; here is a simple way to give a metallic luster to your bare metal surfaces...........
This might not be up to standard for PRO painters but for a mere mortal such as me it yields adequate results and it's fast, did I mention it was fast? and it's economical; I probably won't be able to use all the aluminum powder I have; '3 ounces', in my lifetime.
The entire engine and the wing root used just the powder that was stuck to the lid rim of the jar.
First I applied some really cheap flat black aerosol paint (Walmart generic $0.99 cents @ standard spray can)and let dry overnight.
Then with index finger I applied and rubbed in a bit of the powder and brushed it smooth and into the crevasses with a brush which took all of a minute or two to do the cowl and exhaust. and that's it; no drying time you're finished.
A couple more minutes to do the engine body......
Then I took the pictures.
I applied this powder for the first time on my Warlord Titan over a base coat of flat Black areosol can spray paint Walmart $0.99 cents a can generic house brand
I sprinkled it onto the dried flat paint and brushes the powder into the surface to achieve the desired affect and the all it took. No fixative or covering was needed. After brushing off residual powder the model could and can be handled normally with no drying time and none of the pigment coming off on your hands that I can visually detect although I should caution you should wash your hands before putting them in your mouth or handling food as after all aluminum powder may be toxic in quantity. Also be careful using it around open flames as all finely divided airborne powders are extremely explosive when exposed to flames. I used nothing to seal the models but I suppose that can be done and I suspect the coating can be washed off with soap and water although I have not tried to do it as yet. I intend to paint various areas over the applied powder once I come up with a suitable colour scheme and at that point I shall broaden my dissertation on its uses.
