Don't worry, it's not the first time for me to completely redo some very complex detail.You'll go crazy if you think about this too much. I see what you mean though.
1/12 Apollo Command Module
- Thread starter Kolokolnikov
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I know what ya mean, 196 pieces of track for a tank, then you realize you built it backwards... Grrrr that's why I quit tanks with individual track links.
I had a similar situation with the wings for the X-Wing, it was just a little before completion, and I had to rebuild half of the model. I installed the headlights on the back of the wings.
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I built a pair of Electrostatic Speakers. I had built four of them before. They're not hard, but very precise and intense to build. 4 individual , 2' x3' panels, 2 stacked on each side, these were big speakers, but only 5/16th's of an inch thick. The night before I was going in for my lower back surgery, I wanted to have everything set up so I could enjoy them, I wired the diaphragm by accident to one of the Stators (front aluminum panel), three wires, and the one with the highest voltage, which should have gone to the Mylar. When I turned it on, the Mylar diaphragm stuck and pulled forward, melting to the front Stator. 5000V volts reference sucked that Mylar sheet, and ruined $400 bucks worth of parts. I still had to have the surgery. It took me a year to walk again. I haven't built Electrowtatic Speakers since. I have built a pair of 1/4 tapered quarter wave tubes with an Fs of 29 Hz, that sound fantastic, and cost much less. That was a few year later.
I bought 0.25 and 0.3 mm wire today. There is a new 0.3 mm wire divider on the front, an old 0.4 mm wire divider on the back, a difference of 0.1 mm is very visible and looks neater.
In half an hour, I cut 200 pieces at once, maybe more, in the end I lost count.
The rework forced me to come up with a new faster way of slicing deciders. After removing it from a paper clip, I cut it all in a bundle.
I also punched through the screw heads. For this I used a reusable needle, sharpened inside.
When using such small punches, it is imperative to pull the part out of the needle. Otherwise, the needle will quickly fill up with paper and stop punching, and it is very difficult to clean such a thin needle.
In half an hour, I cut 200 pieces at once, maybe more, in the end I lost count.
The rework forced me to come up with a new faster way of slicing deciders. After removing it from a paper clip, I cut it all in a bundle.
I also punched through the screw heads. For this I used a reusable needle, sharpened inside.
When using such small punches, it is imperative to pull the part out of the needle. Otherwise, the needle will quickly fill up with paper and stop punching, and it is very difficult to clean such a thin needle.
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@ Dan. Below some links to reusable needles.
www.praxisdienst.nl
www.agro-topshop.nl
I used "herbruikbare naalden"
I hope this helps you.
Herbruikbare naalden in vele maten | Praxisdienst
Herbruikbare Naalden – Deze naalden uit stabiel chroomnikkelstaal zijn herbruikbaar voor een lichte, pijnloze injectie. Bekijk alle dierenartsbenodigdheden bij Praxisdienst-VET!
naalden herbruikbaar - Naalden - Veterinaire producten - Producten
www.agro-topshop.nl
I used "herbruikbare naalden"
I hope this helps you.
To the existing flux needles purchased from the electronics components store, I ordered this set with a handle.
1 Set Metal Embroidery Stitching Punch Needle Handmade Needlepoint Kits Sewing Tool Set With Tube For DIY
But these needles need to be modified. First, they need to be cut and flattened, and then sharpened from the inside. And you also need to squeeze the place of attachment of the tube and the body, otherwise after several blows on such a punch, the tube will fall inside.
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If you know a Veterinarian, and you tell them what you need the larger needles for, they might give or sell you some. The big ones, which are big, relative to needles, as used on horses and cattle, and really cut sharp holes, and you can clean them out with a wire. These days, Vets are reticent to do that kind of stufff, but if you showed them one of your models, you might convince them. They throw them away (single use). I'd boil the shit out of anything I got from them. Spray Lysol on them first, before you handle them and have very tough gloves on.
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I don't know what "Gage" it is... but the needle that comes in the Tony Chachere's Creole injector has an OD of .1185
You can buy them at the grocery store. usually on the isle that has the BBQ sauce.
You can buy them at the grocery store. usually on the isle that has the BBQ sauce.
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"Gauge" is just a standard of graduation of anything, like wire, needles, train tracks, trains, etc. According to the chart on the link below, your needle would be an #11 gauge. Those caalipers aren't good for anything less than three digits, close, but no cigar, you use a Micrometer for that. I rounded up .005", you can see the needle on the face is almost at .009", making that a Grade 11 syringe needle. There's a range for the diameters. 
Syringe Needle Gauge Chart
Our Syringe Needle conversion chart is a quick reference for needle gauge, outer diameter, inner diameter, and wall diameter following the Birmingham wire gauge system.
www.sigmaaldrich.com
And the chart says its about 3mm.
This was my first set of calipers. I got them when I started collage in 1988. Strictly speaking you can only measure to 3 decimal places with these.
However, as long as I have been using these, I have learned how to get a 4 decimal reading with them. But only 1/4, 1/2, and 3/4 in the 4th decimal place. I would not be able to accept this reading for some place like NASA, But in the places that I have worked, it is good enough.
This was my first set of calipers. I got them when I started collage in 1988. Strictly speaking you can only measure to 3 decimal places with these.
However, as long as I have been using these, I have learned how to get a 4 decimal reading with them. But only 1/4, 1/2, and 3/4 in the 4th decimal place. I would not be able to accept this reading for some place like NASA, But in the places that I have worked, it is good enough.
I have a cheap set of digital calipers that go to 3 places, and in my carrier as a plumber, I only had to go to 3 places when measuring pipe wall thickness at an inspection. Only the highest grade plans call for wall thickness readings, most just specify tubing inside diameter. Mainly medical gas and vacuum systems require a certain wall thickness.
Most of the design work I did required a tolerance of +or - of .005. There was a few things that the customer required +- of .0025
I use needles for a flux dispenser. This is the exact OD in mm for the needles I have from G15 to G20.
15-1.8, 16-1.6, 17-1.5, 18-1.3, 19-1.1, 20-0.9 mm
In the meantime, this is the fourth time I rebuild the panel from the beginning.
II was not satisfied with the fastening of the dividers, as the wire began to fall out and does not stay in place. I re-printed the sheet with the panel, started to make, but immediately glued the transparent part, and the installation of the wire in a new way became not convenient.
I printed again, prepared everything for dividers installation, but when I started to remove the tape from the panel, it came off along with the toner, apparently there was some kind of printing problem.
The third time I scratched the panel, dropping its floor and ran over it with the wheels of the chair.
This is a new, more reliable way of installing dividers. I decided to weave them into paper. I used a 1mm steel rail as a support for leveling the height. This was my second reason why I decided to do everything from the beginning. When I manually setting each piece of wire, I cannot control its height, and it did not looks good.
II was not satisfied with the fastening of the dividers, as the wire began to fall out and does not stay in place. I re-printed the sheet with the panel, started to make, but immediately glued the transparent part, and the installation of the wire in a new way became not convenient.
I printed again, prepared everything for dividers installation, but when I started to remove the tape from the panel, it came off along with the toner, apparently there was some kind of printing problem.
The third time I scratched the panel, dropping its floor and ran over it with the wheels of the chair.
This is a new, more reliable way of installing dividers. I decided to weave them into paper. I used a 1mm steel rail as a support for leveling the height. This was my second reason why I decided to do everything from the beginning. When I manually setting each piece of wire, I cannot control its height, and it did not looks good.