Starting my layout!

Discussion in 'HO Scale Model Trains' started by prodigy2k7, Jan 18, 2007.

  1. prodigy2k7

    prodigy2k7 Member

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    My soon to be Layout (using flex track) 4x8
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    My progress:
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    Thats how my frame came out to be...

    I only ahve one problem, looking at this layout and that my layout is somewhat small for doing a complete 180 turn (4x8), i have 2x4 vertically underneith each side of the 4x8, I plan to run under table switch machines but now I dont think i have any room, unless I somehow squeese the track in about an inch or two, im not sure i guess ill have to go blind unless anyone has any ideas.

    Also, does anyone have any ideas on how to turn into a table by putting cheap legs on it? its already getting pretty heavy lol
  2. radar

    radar Member

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    use 2x4s for the legs ,be sure to run a diagonal brace, maybe on the tight side you could change the 2x4 to a 1x4.
  3. prodigy2k7

    prodigy2k7 Member

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    Im not a putter together person in terminology, whats a diagonal brace? besides the obvious, can i get a pictures from a lowes website or something?

    How EXACTLY do i attach the 2x4's for legs
  4. Ralph

    Ralph Remember...it's for fun!

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    That 2X4 framing does get pretty heavy! You could have gotten by with 1X4s but its a done deal and no harm done. Legs made of 2X4 will be a good plan to support the heavy table. The good news is that you'll be able to actually climb onto such a sturdy bench if needed to work on it (I know this for a fact since I built a 4X8 almost exactly the same way as a teen in my bedroom).
    Ralph
  5. radar

    radar Member

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    a diagonal brace will go from the top of one leg to the bottem of the other leg on the same side of benchwork. I use 3 inch deck screws 3 on wide side of leg 2 on narrow end.

    Attached Files:

  6. IAIS 604

    IAIS 604 Member

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  7. Play-Doh

    Play-Doh Member

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    Dont feel bad for using the 2x4s...When I built my 4X8 I used 2X6s.....with two inner braces as well as 1/2 inch plywood.

    I now have a hernia.

    Im not kidding.
  8. radar

    radar Member

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    are u going to use foam on top?
  9. prodigy2k7

    prodigy2k7 Member

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    I may have a problem, I have 2x4 on the sides of my table, as you can see, my current layout i believe makes it run too the way to the ednge, eventually i was going to have a second mainline inside of that, but I dont know if I have room now, I was going to use undertable switch machines for my switches but I dont know if I can do that for my outside mainline unless I dont do my inside mainline, so then I would have only 1 mainline... Anyone have ideas?
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  10. radar

    radar Member

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    change the 2x4 on the side with the main to a 1x4 ?that way it would be easier to notch out for you switch machine!
  11. radar

    radar Member

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    by the way Nice leggs
  12. green_elite_cab

    green_elite_cab Keep It Moving!

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    lol, that reminds me of when i had put together my table. I was attaching the plywood sheet to the cleats on the cross braces, but i needed someone to sit down on my table to hold the board flat, so i got my sisters and cousin to sit on it. They were all terrified that i'd drill a whole into their butts! My sister said that i did, but didn't believe her until i started laying cork for my track, and found lots of screws poking up out of the plywood a little bit!

    good times.
  13. Jim Krause

    Jim Krause Active Member

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    I know you don't want to hear this, BUT, The 2X4's are unnecessary overkill. Also, you would be better off with three 1X4 cross braces instead . The short screws that you are using to attach the folding legs will tend to work loose from the particle board over time.
    Bottom line---It's your project.
  14. LongIslandTom

    LongIslandTom Member

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    Easiest solution... Use manual ground throws for the turnouts closest to the edge.

    The thing with that layout plan is that the outside oval only has turnouts on one side of the layout, so you can put that side closest to you so you can manually flip them. Plus it saves you $$$.

    Simple solutions are best, I often find. :thumb:
  15. prodigy2k7

    prodigy2k7 Member

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    the wood was my dad's idea, haha...
    ty tom i might consider that...

    Also guys I got an idea, im almost ready to start laying cork and track.
    I got my foam, if I am to cut holes for wires and what not...should i cut the foam and plywood separately? or glue it together and then drill? should i even glue the foam down?

    thanks :)
  16. green_elite_cab

    green_elite_cab Keep It Moving!

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    glue it togeterh, and cut out channels in the cork. when you get to ballasting, it will look fine as long as the feeders are atleast flush if not below the surface of the cork. running the wire down the side of the cork is a bad idea. i have to go back and move all of my wires out of the way so that ballast looks right.
  17. prodigy2k7

    prodigy2k7 Member

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    glue it, but then how do i cut holes underneath to run feeders?
  18. green_elite_cab

    green_elite_cab Keep It Moving!

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    alot of people put the cork down, and when they are laying the track, they drill holes straight through both the cork and table, and slip the wires through there. You only need to cut out channels in the cork if for some reason you didn't already do this.
  19. Go Big1

    Go Big1 Member

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    Question to Prodigy

    I am getting close (probably about 2 months out) to starting my first ever layout (I am a total newb to all this), and am right now designing some possible layouts for a 4x8 layout similar to yours. I like how you have an inner and outer loop, but am wondering what radius's you have on that inner radius? It seems that if you keep radius's at 18 degrees or larger, you cannot get that inner turn. Is that a 15 degree radius turn you are planning?
  20. jr switch

    jr switch Member

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    Just a suggestion. I'm running on two ovals at present while waiting to clear an area for a layout. The inner oval ends are 18" radius and the larger is 22" curves. I have the straight sections just short of three inches apart on one side so that trains run next to each other briefly. Looks good and it's fun. Had to go just a few inches wider than the four feet for the 22" curves, but the owner of my nearest hobby shop said for the 2-10-2 and 4-8-4, 18" is too tight.
    My diesels, shorter steam engines and most of the rolling stock works fine on the 18" curves, but the longer pass. cars do not. Plus, as mentioned here before, on another earlier thread, the overhang is too much. My passenger cars get around the 22" curves, but I'm pushing the limit of good taste. [ loved that description the first time i saw it ]
    Your layout plan looks real good. Lots of possibilities. Please keep us posted as you progress--------John R