"PaperLaul's Terminator 2: Hunter Killer Aerial - by DanBKing"
- Thread starter DanBKing
- Start date
- Status
........
( @bgt01 Thank you for providing my 500th (+ 4) 'Likes' !!
:King: You have hit a milestone!! (at least this one is more satisfying than the one I hit on my bike a few months back .....
))
But, to EVERYBODY on this forum, it has been you people, that have kept me going through my steep learning curve into paper modelling. Without all your tips, tricks, advice, suggestions, moral support, perseverance and an underlying desire to help, I never would of made it this far........
This forum has been PUN. (No FUN intended
)
Since I started paper modelling, ALL of my paper model build threads, have been exclusive to ZEALOT!
But, comparing my 500+ Like count to other renowned members here, I am just a candle in the wind .........
To all that got me here: Thank You!
Now, time to get off the soapbox...... :shamefullyembarrased:
Laying it on thick ........!
I made the engine body shell and decided that adding the laminated panels, before doing anything else, was the best option.
I used a copy of the body shell, printed on 250gsm paper/card. Each individual textured panel was cut from the copy. The white/black lines around each panel were completely removed.
By rolling each piece over a marker pen, I formed the part before gluing....
And, slowly but surely, glued all the panels on, one by one, keeping everything as straight as possible.....
While I was at it, I applied the ring detail on one of the lower engine parts...
While all the laminations were drying, I made up the lower engine parts. I've found out over time, that gluing a uniform ring to a part can be frustrating and not always provide satisfactory results. But, where possible, my best method of attaching a ring to another part/s is to attach the inner half of a ring piece(?) in the flat, then cut out the outer circumference, and/or tabs afterwards. Well, that's the way I do it anyway .....
The lower assembly was then attached to the main body shell....
Next up is the engine to fuselage mounting/support parts.
I wanted the ability to swivel the engines and run the LED wiring into the fuselage. Simple enough to do!
I made up the flange pieces that attach the engine to the cross-shaft in the fuselage. I opted to cut a hole through the engine body shell, and attach a tube, that fits snuggly into the cross-shaft, thereby allowing the engine to swivel on the shaft/tube. The tube also provides exit for the wiring.
The tube was first glued onto the inside of the body shell and then the flange piece was glued to the outside, making sure that everything was perfectly straight and square in relation to each other .....
"I'LL BE BACK" !!!!! (Soon!)
( @bgt01 Thank you for providing my 500th (+ 4) 'Likes' !!
:King: You have hit a milestone!! (at least this one is more satisfying than the one I hit on my bike a few months back .....))But, to EVERYBODY on this forum, it has been you people, that have kept me going through my steep learning curve into paper modelling. Without all your tips, tricks, advice, suggestions, moral support, perseverance and an underlying desire to help, I never would of made it this far........
This forum has been PUN. (No FUN intended
)Since I started paper modelling, ALL of my paper model build threads, have been exclusive to ZEALOT!
But, comparing my 500+ Like count to other renowned members here, I am just a candle in the wind .........
To all that got me here: Thank You!
Now, time to get off the soapbox...... :shamefullyembarrased:
Laying it on thick ........!
I made the engine body shell and decided that adding the laminated panels, before doing anything else, was the best option.
I used a copy of the body shell, printed on 250gsm paper/card. Each individual textured panel was cut from the copy. The white/black lines around each panel were completely removed.
By rolling each piece over a marker pen, I formed the part before gluing....
And, slowly but surely, glued all the panels on, one by one, keeping everything as straight as possible.....
While I was at it, I applied the ring detail on one of the lower engine parts...
While all the laminations were drying, I made up the lower engine parts. I've found out over time, that gluing a uniform ring to a part can be frustrating and not always provide satisfactory results. But, where possible, my best method of attaching a ring to another part/s is to attach the inner half of a ring piece(?) in the flat, then cut out the outer circumference, and/or tabs afterwards. Well, that's the way I do it anyway .....
The lower assembly was then attached to the main body shell....
Next up is the engine to fuselage mounting/support parts.
I wanted the ability to swivel the engines and run the LED wiring into the fuselage. Simple enough to do!
I made up the flange pieces that attach the engine to the cross-shaft in the fuselage. I opted to cut a hole through the engine body shell, and attach a tube, that fits snuggly into the cross-shaft, thereby allowing the engine to swivel on the shaft/tube. The tube also provides exit for the wiring.
The tube was first glued onto the inside of the body shell and then the flange piece was glued to the outside, making sure that everything was perfectly straight and square in relation to each other .....
"I'LL BE BACK" !!!!! (Soon!)
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Getting revved!
Next up the assembly on the side of the engine. Not sure what to call it, but if @zathros DOES work for SkyNet, and his lift fan concept is used as outlined earlier, then these would, I assume, be the end bearing housings for the main driven shaft.
Anyway, the top and bottom of the 'unit' have recessed areas, but only depicted by printed texture. So, I had to make them 3D texture.
It was a relatively simple task of reversing the piece, adding a bit for a floor, and attaching it inside out.
The side pieces were attached to complete the unit.
And then glued to the engine....
Next up, I glued in the light unit in the bottom of the engine. The wiring from the LED was run through the tube attached earlier.
And as I no longer needed access to the inside of the engine, I glued the intake assembly in place.
Back in a bit.........
Next up the assembly on the side of the engine. Not sure what to call it, but if @zathros DOES work for SkyNet, and his lift fan concept is used as outlined earlier, then these would, I assume, be the end bearing housings for the main driven shaft.
Anyway, the top and bottom of the 'unit' have recessed areas, but only depicted by printed texture. So, I had to make them 3D texture.
It was a relatively simple task of reversing the piece, adding a bit for a floor, and attaching it inside out.
The side pieces were attached to complete the unit.
And then glued to the engine....
Next up, I glued in the light unit in the bottom of the engine. The wiring from the LED was run through the tube attached earlier.
And as I no longer needed access to the inside of the engine, I glued the intake assembly in place.
Back in a bit.........
..............
The triangular pieces at the bottom of the engine were attached next. The model template provides four per engine.
I did eight. I think it looks better ......
The assembly of the engine is complete. I am pleased with the outcome.
I cleaned up any glue and other mess on the engine and sprayed the whole thing in two light coats of primer from a rattle can. But, before I started spraying, I made a plug to mask the engine exhaust. The toothpick aids in getting it out.
Once dry, the whole engine was rubbed down with 1000 grit wet & dry, and given a final coat of primer.
Earlier this evening, I sprayed the whole engine gloss black as a base coat for the chrome coat.
I'll take some pics in the morning when it has dried properly.
Will post them at some point in the day tomorrow.
Take care everybody.
The triangular pieces at the bottom of the engine were attached next. The model template provides four per engine.
I did eight. I think it looks better ......
The assembly of the engine is complete. I am pleased with the outcome.
I cleaned up any glue and other mess on the engine and sprayed the whole thing in two light coats of primer from a rattle can. But, before I started spraying, I made a plug to mask the engine exhaust. The toothpick aids in getting it out.
Once dry, the whole engine was rubbed down with 1000 grit wet & dry, and given a final coat of primer.
Earlier this evening, I sprayed the whole engine gloss black as a base coat for the chrome coat.
I'll take some pics in the morning when it has dried properly.
Will post them at some point in the day tomorrow.
Take care everybody.
Thanks Jim!
One thing I forgot to mention yesterday; When I sprayed the engine black, I also sprayed up the spotlights with primer and then gloss black.
Before I sprayed them though, I painted in the clear lens with masking fluid to protect it.
The spots are now ready for 'chroming'!
In the end, I actually took the photos of the finished engine before I went to bed last night, (about 1:30,) and when I came down this morning and uploaded the pictures from the camera, I nearly fell off of my chair in stunned amazement at what I was seeing.......!! :wideyed:
I took the pictures using the flash, and because of this, the camera has changed the appearance of the gloss black paint in the pictures!
Now, in the following pictures, I swear to you its the truth, that what you are seeing is gloss black paint.
But, maybe my camera takes pictures into the future, to show what is to come, but just take a look at these beauty shots of the finished engine......... IT LOOKS LIKE CHROME ALREADY !!!!!!!!
But, I think these pictures give a very good indication of what the end result will look like .........
See you all soon ......
One thing I forgot to mention yesterday; When I sprayed the engine black, I also sprayed up the spotlights with primer and then gloss black.
Before I sprayed them though, I painted in the clear lens with masking fluid to protect it.
The spots are now ready for 'chroming'!
In the end, I actually took the photos of the finished engine before I went to bed last night, (about 1:30,) and when I came down this morning and uploaded the pictures from the camera, I nearly fell off of my chair in stunned amazement at what I was seeing.......!! :wideyed:
I took the pictures using the flash, and because of this, the camera has changed the appearance of the gloss black paint in the pictures!
Now, in the following pictures, I swear to you its the truth, that what you are seeing is gloss black paint.
But, maybe my camera takes pictures into the future, to show what is to come, but just take a look at these beauty shots of the finished engine......... IT LOOKS LIKE CHROME ALREADY !!!!!!!!
But, I think these pictures give a very good indication of what the end result will look like .........
See you all soon ......
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- Apr 5, 2013
- 13,876
- 10,214
- 228
I told you it, it wasn....nt's me*&^#*$ ME. 011000100111000001010000
Remember a couple of posts ago, that I hinted at a possible two, interchangeable diorama/bases for this model ????
And, that it was required that a test build of something, must first be proven?
Well, as of this afternoon, the test build has been completed.
And now, the 'proof is in the pudding ..... '
If this test works out as planned, then I am guaranteed at least one workable base.......
The other, that all depends on weight..... (But, I will make it work ... )
I will enlighten you all further, when I have sorted and processed the myriad of photos that I took.
Enjoy your weekend, one and all!
rinks:
And, that it was required that a test build of something, must first be proven?
Well, as of this afternoon, the test build has been completed.
And now, the 'proof is in the pudding ..... '
If this test works out as planned, then I am guaranteed at least one workable base.......
The other, that all depends on weight..... (But, I will make it work ...
)I will enlighten you all further, when I have sorted and processed the myriad of photos that I took.
Enjoy your weekend, one and all!
rinks:
Choose your wattage, @zathros
Legging it ..........!
I have luckily been on a break from work for two weeks, but, I need to print a couple of more copies of some engine parts. Because I want to print them on the same printer, I can only do that next week, when I'm back at work.
So, before I started building the second engine, I decided to try out a little experiment.
My basic idea for the two dioramas is that one will depict the HK flying, the other with the HK landed on the ground.
I searched the internet, but could not find any reference pictures, model builds, or anything, that shows the HK landed. (Unless I missed something .......)
Anyway, the model includes, what Laul describes as 'arms and legs', the four landing gear assemblies. These assemblies are fixed with the landing gear in the folded up position, as when the HK is flying. That is fine for one diorama, but not the other.
So, if I want the HK landed, the only way would be to make the fixed landing gear fully functional ......
And this is what I did........
I studied the parts and textures to work out how everything would/should function in the landing gear.
When the landing gear is in the folded up position, the bottom of the foot points upwards. When required for landing, the lower leg of the gear swings down and backwards, thereby bringing the bottom of the foot the correct way up, for landing. The 'ankle' also has rotational ability which would allow the foot to be placed on uneven ground.
The landing gear leg is actually a swing arm of sorts. As no hydraulic rams are present, I am assuming that the hinge itself is electrically driven. The main rotational hinge required to move the lower leg, is only depicted as texture. Also the whole gear assembly, where it attaches to the fuselage, also has the ability to rotate, to bring the landing gear into correct orientation for landing. The option for this rotational ability is included in the kit.
Hopefully this pic will make things a bit clearer.
Because these four legs will be taking the whole weight of the model, which will be rather heavy with all the extra panelling, wiring, LEDs and what not, they needed to be strong and the joints tight and able to take the stresses.
So, I started with the easy bit, the leg tube. Before closing up the ends, I pushed a rolled tube of 250gsm card up the leg tube to give it strength.
The hole in the upper leg part was punched and a card ring flange replaced the textured one. The mounting tube for the leg was then glued in.
I put this part aside for now, as I first wanted to work out the hinge mechanism that this part attaches to. In the instructions this part is simply glued to the landing gear main arm. (see diagram above, circled.)
I studied the part sheet and using a bit of logic, I worked out that the lower leg attaches to the central section of the hinge, as shown by the red rectangle in the pic below. The two strips to the left and right of the red rectangle are the hinge parts for the main arm. The red circle shows the actual outer diameter (19mm) of the hinge part of the main arm, which has a smaller diameter than the hinge part of the lower leg (20mm). There is a reason for this, note also the notch as indicated by the arrow. I will explain this in the next pic
With reference to the picture below, the arrowed part of the piece is actually a limit stop, which would stop the landing gear from folding back on itself if swung to far.
When the leg is in the folded position, this part fits snuggly into the notch, arrowed in the picture above.
As it now stands, ( @Cybergrinder no pun intended,) the leg would not be able to swing at all, as the limit stop would jam against the notch.
So, onto the main arm construction.
I laminated the sides of the main arm part to 1mm thick cardboard, to give it strength. I then cut out the part.
I cut a few 20mm and 19mm diameter discs from the same thick card, to be used as packing pieces.
I used one 20mm disc and lined it up with the texture of the circular end of the main arm and used the hole in the disc, created by the compass cutter, to mark the centre point of the hinge on both sides of the main arm. I then cut away a 1mm strip from the diameter of the hinge end of the main arm. I did the same for 4 of the packing discs. I only cut away half of the circumference of these discs, to create a notch, which will become the limit stop itself. The red arrow in the pic below shows this notch on the main arm.
As I am going to use a 3mm piece of dowel as the hinge pivot, I punched out holes in the arm and discs to accommodate this.
I then glued the discs into place, ensuring that the notch was in the correct position. I used a piece of dowel to keep everything centred. These discs bring the piece up to the correct thickness as depicted by the texture.
Once I was satisfied that everything was as it should be, I added an extra piece of thick card to the inside bottom of the arm and placed a bracing piece to keep the arm square and glued the arm into shape.
I then cut some strengthening plates for the inside of the upper leg part and added extra pieces to bring the width of the limit stop piece, to the same thickness as the hinge plates of the main arm.
That's all for now folks. I am off to a dart tournament now, (and another one tomorrow,) so if all goes well I will post the continuation of this saga later this evening.
Laters!!
Legging it ..........!
I have luckily been on a break from work for two weeks, but, I need to print a couple of more copies of some engine parts. Because I want to print them on the same printer, I can only do that next week, when I'm back at work.
So, before I started building the second engine, I decided to try out a little experiment.
My basic idea for the two dioramas is that one will depict the HK flying, the other with the HK landed on the ground.
I searched the internet, but could not find any reference pictures, model builds, or anything, that shows the HK landed. (Unless I missed something .......)
Anyway, the model includes, what Laul describes as 'arms and legs', the four landing gear assemblies. These assemblies are fixed with the landing gear in the folded up position, as when the HK is flying. That is fine for one diorama, but not the other.
So, if I want the HK landed, the only way would be to make the fixed landing gear fully functional ......
And this is what I did........
I studied the parts and textures to work out how everything would/should function in the landing gear.
When the landing gear is in the folded up position, the bottom of the foot points upwards. When required for landing, the lower leg of the gear swings down and backwards, thereby bringing the bottom of the foot the correct way up, for landing. The 'ankle' also has rotational ability which would allow the foot to be placed on uneven ground.
The landing gear leg is actually a swing arm of sorts. As no hydraulic rams are present, I am assuming that the hinge itself is electrically driven. The main rotational hinge required to move the lower leg, is only depicted as texture. Also the whole gear assembly, where it attaches to the fuselage, also has the ability to rotate, to bring the landing gear into correct orientation for landing. The option for this rotational ability is included in the kit.
Hopefully this pic will make things a bit clearer.
Because these four legs will be taking the whole weight of the model, which will be rather heavy with all the extra panelling, wiring, LEDs and what not, they needed to be strong and the joints tight and able to take the stresses.
So, I started with the easy bit, the leg tube.
Before closing up the ends, I pushed a rolled tube of 250gsm card up the leg tube to give it strength.The hole in the upper leg part was punched and a card ring flange replaced the textured one. The mounting tube for the leg was then glued in.
I put this part aside for now, as I first wanted to work out the hinge mechanism that this part attaches to. In the instructions this part is simply glued to the landing gear main arm. (see diagram above, circled.)
I studied the part sheet and using a bit of logic, I worked out that the lower leg attaches to the central section of the hinge, as shown by the red rectangle in the pic below. The two strips to the left and right of the red rectangle are the hinge parts for the main arm. The red circle shows the actual outer diameter (19mm) of the hinge part of the main arm, which has a smaller diameter than the hinge part of the lower leg (20mm). There is a reason for this, note also the notch as indicated by the arrow. I will explain this in the next pic
With reference to the picture below, the arrowed part of the piece is actually a limit stop, which would stop the landing gear from folding back on itself if swung to far.
When the leg is in the folded position, this part fits snuggly into the notch, arrowed in the picture above.
As it now stands, ( @Cybergrinder no pun intended,
) the leg would not be able to swing at all, as the limit stop would jam against the notch.So, onto the main arm construction.
I laminated the sides of the main arm part to 1mm thick cardboard, to give it strength. I then cut out the part.
I cut a few 20mm and 19mm diameter discs from the same thick card, to be used as packing pieces.
I used one 20mm disc and lined it up with the texture of the circular end of the main arm and used the hole in the disc, created by the compass cutter, to mark the centre point of the hinge on both sides of the main arm. I then cut away a 1mm strip from the diameter of the hinge end of the main arm. I did the same for 4 of the packing discs. I only cut away half of the circumference of these discs, to create a notch, which will become the limit stop itself. The red arrow in the pic below shows this notch on the main arm.
As I am going to use a 3mm piece of dowel as the hinge pivot, I punched out holes in the arm and discs to accommodate this.
I then glued the discs into place, ensuring that the notch was in the correct position. I used a piece of dowel to keep everything centred. These discs bring the piece up to the correct thickness as depicted by the texture.
Once I was satisfied that everything was as it should be, I added an extra piece of thick card to the inside bottom of the arm and placed a bracing piece to keep the arm square and glued the arm into shape.
I then cut some strengthening plates for the inside of the upper leg part and added extra pieces to bring the width of the limit stop piece, to the same thickness as the hinge plates of the main arm.
That's all for now folks. I am off to a dart tournament now, (and another one tomorrow,) so if all goes well I will post the continuation of this saga later this evening.
Laters!!
Last edited:
- Apr 5, 2013
- 13,876
- 10,214
- 228
Those engines are, in themselves, a work of art! You could make a cr@pload of one off, personal design models, using those engines. Like "Tony the Tiger said, "They're gr-r-eat!"
- Apr 5, 2013
- 13,876
- 10,214
- 228
I made my last post before you posted your landing gear picture sequence.
Awesome deduction on how the gear works, and excellent engineering technique on the construction of the parts which will be under great compression loads. Te compression would compel me to add some triangulation on the inside, maybe in the form of Popsicle sticks, cut down to fit. The strength of triangulating parts is exponential, and you will have gear incapable of buckling. Without knowing the final weight, it's hard to know how much is enough and when one has over built, I tend to over build, knowing you can always take stuff off but adding becomes harder. Making those parts solid on the inside with some two part epoxy putty, the stuff that comes in the 1" inch plastic tubes, grey on the outside, with a black core, "SteelStik" is the brand I use, as it can be milled and drilled, would make the parts indestructible.
I am offering just an opinion, you have it in your hands and know what you have. It looks great, and after seeing how your engines came out, this is destined to be something fantastic. You be the King!:King:
Awesome deduction on how the gear works, and excellent engineering technique on the construction of the parts which will be under great compression loads. Te compression would compel me to add some triangulation on the inside, maybe in the form of Popsicle sticks, cut down to fit. The strength of triangulating parts is exponential, and you will have gear incapable of buckling. Without knowing the final weight, it's hard to know how much is enough and when one has over built, I tend to over build, knowing you can always take stuff off but adding becomes harder. Making those parts solid on the inside with some two part epoxy putty, the stuff that comes in the 1" inch plastic tubes, grey on the outside, with a black core, "SteelStik" is the brand I use, as it can be milled and drilled, would make the parts indestructible.
I am offering just an opinion, you have it in your hands and know what you have. It looks great, and after seeing how your engines came out, this is destined to be something fantastic.
You be the King!:King:
Swivel it, just a little bit .....!
Grr, I have lost, misplaced, cant find, (or maybe I didn't even take them
) a set of photos that shows how I made up the other (leg) half of the hinge.
I'll take some more pics of this step, when I build the other three legs.....
With the main arm now formed, I had a resulting 7mm gap between the walls and disc sets of the main arm hinge. This gap distance should be the width of the hinge part for the lower leg. I made two 'P' shaped pieces out of 1mm thick card. This then gave me a 5mm gap between the two 'P' plates, which is the exact diameter of the leg tube anchor tube.
Damn, if I had more pictures, all would be clearer to you.
But, anyway, I fitted the 2 plates to the upper leg piece..... (as I will show later in the thread, when I take some more pictures of this step.)
I made up some spacer pieces inside the upper leg part to give some lateral strength... The two 'P' plates fit between the walls of the leg mounting tube and the walls of the upper leg piece. From the direction of bottom right in the second photo below.
This photo shows the two hinge parts ready for final fitting with the dowel.
Next, I made up the foot. I used a piece of thick card as an internal strengthener. The tubular piece in the middle of the leg, (which I assume is some sort of shock absorber,) was made up, and the texturing replaced with card pieces. The end of my cutting knife was the perfect size to use as a form.
I made the ankle hinge, by making two rings, that fit snuggly around either end of the ankle tube. As per the instructions, the ankle tube has a 'cup' piece fitted inside to accept the leg tube. After many frustrating attempts to get the cup fitted, I gave up and used another approach. I inserted the leg into the ankle tube and then glued in two pieces of rolled up card at either end of the tube. Once the inserts were dry, I cut them off flush to the ends of the ankle tube with a razor saw. This created a strengthened joint and also not needing to use the cup piece, as the rolled inserts were pushed tight against the leg. The rings were then placed onto the ankle tube and carefully glued to the foot, making sure that no glue leaked into the ankle joint.
I glued the leg in position, and once everything was dry, I checked the new hinge and all works well. I have 270 deg rotation ..........
Oh btw: I screwed up and could not throw my doubles in todays darts tournament and only got as far as the quarter finals. Oh well, hopefully better in tomorrows tournament.
"Time for bed", said Zebedee.
Grr, I have lost, misplaced, cant find, (or maybe I didn't even take them
) a set of photos that shows how I made up the other (leg) half of the hinge.I'll take some more pics of this step, when I build the other three legs.....
With the main arm now formed, I had a resulting 7mm gap between the walls and disc sets of the main arm hinge. This gap distance should be the width of the hinge part for the lower leg. I made two 'P' shaped pieces out of 1mm thick card. This then gave me a 5mm gap between the two 'P' plates, which is the exact diameter of the leg tube anchor tube.
Damn, if I had more pictures, all would be clearer to you.
But, anyway, I fitted the 2 plates to the upper leg piece..... (as I will show later in the thread, when I take some more pictures of this step.)
I made up some spacer pieces inside the upper leg part to give some lateral strength... The two 'P' plates fit between the walls of the leg mounting tube and the walls of the upper leg piece. From the direction of bottom right in the second photo below.
This photo shows the two hinge parts ready for final fitting with the dowel.
Next, I made up the foot. I used a piece of thick card as an internal strengthener. The tubular piece in the middle of the leg, (which I assume is some sort of shock absorber,) was made up, and the texturing replaced with card pieces. The end of my cutting knife was the perfect size to use as a form.
I made the ankle hinge, by making two rings, that fit snuggly around either end of the ankle tube. As per the instructions, the ankle tube has a 'cup' piece fitted inside to accept the leg tube. After many frustrating attempts to get the cup fitted, I gave up and used another approach. I inserted the leg into the ankle tube and then glued in two pieces of rolled up card at either end of the tube. Once the inserts were dry, I cut them off flush to the ends of the ankle tube with a razor saw. This created a strengthened joint and also not needing to use the cup piece, as the rolled inserts were pushed tight against the leg. The rings were then placed onto the ankle tube and carefully glued to the foot, making sure that no glue leaked into the ankle joint.
I glued the leg in position, and once everything was dry, I checked the new hinge and all works well. I have 270 deg rotation ..........
Oh btw: I screwed up and could not throw my doubles in todays darts tournament and only got as far as the quarter finals. Oh well, hopefully better in tomorrows tournament.
"Time for bed", said Zebedee.
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