"Flying Dutchman" - Ghost Ship - OREL Russian Paper Model Build
- Thread starter mtrappett
- Start date
There sure are a lot of cannons on this ship! 
These are all the lower deck cannon carriages completed. I guess this is a mini-milestone.
This is the front upper deck under construction. I scored the deck planks to give a better 3D effect. Roman numeral part 26.
By the way... "W" printed on the color parts means cut this area out.
Spray glue seems o work great for the large open areas such as the deck pieces.
An overview of the pieces for the first wave of deck 26 construction. This part is basically similar to the previous deck covered earlier. Just lots of fine cutting of the grating squares with the scalpel.
Such beautiful laser cut grating parts! Do yourself a huge favor, and get the laser cut add on kit! There's still a gazillion parts to cut out
Color the middle with a black felt pen for a feeling of depth below the grating probably where the prisoners are kept
Score the details on the gratings for additional feedback effects.
"There she blows", capn'
There are more details to be added underneath the deck 26. You really have to search hard for some of these parts. The instructions and diagram don't show this hardly at all, so this should help you guys.
This adds thickness to the deck just at the front edge by the deck supports.
This is the color veneer part that goes over the top of the edging.
There is a very slight bow to the deck which is intended, as can be seen here.
p.n.c. 26 - Upper Deck Cannon Barrel Assemblies Build
- Gently dampen the rolled surfaces using a cotton swab dipped in water.
- keep all seams facing downwards so they are less conspicuous.
- Cut card pieces from below to get a cleaner cut and avoid creating protrusions.
- Keep all parts for the assembly together in a container such as a Ziploc bag.
- Paint edges with like colored watercolor paints.
Card:
1) 61 - Barrel - color
2) 61.1 - 1/2 circle - color
3) 61.2 - Muzzle 1 - color
4) 61.2 - Muzzle 1 - card
5) 61.3 - Muzzle 2 - color
6) 61.3 - Muzzle 2 - card
7) 61.4 - Ring 1 - color
8) 61.4 - Ring 1 - card
9) 61.5 - Ring 2 - color
10) 61.5 - Ring 2 - card
11) 61.6 - Plate 1 - color
12) 61.6 - Plate 1 - card
13) 61.7 - Plate 2 - color
14) 61.7 - Plate 2 - card
15) 61.8 - Plate 3 - color
16) 61.8 - Plate 3 - card
13) 61.9 - Plate 4 - color
14) 61.9 - Plate 4 - card
13) 61.10 - Plate 5 - color
14) 61.10 - Plate 5 - card
15) 61.11 - Pivot axle - color
15 Parts per barrel total
14 Barrels Needed - 7 on right, 7 on left
14 x 15 = 210 parts
These are all the lower deck cannon carriages completed. I guess this is a mini-milestone.This is the front upper deck under construction. I scored the deck planks to give a better 3D effect. Roman numeral part 26.
By the way... "W" printed on the color parts means cut this area out.
Spray glue seems o work great for the large open areas such as the deck pieces.
An overview of the pieces for the first wave of deck 26 construction. This part is basically similar to the previous deck covered earlier. Just lots of fine cutting of the grating squares with the scalpel.
Such beautiful laser cut grating parts! Do yourself a huge favor, and get the laser cut add on kit! There's still a gazillion parts to cut out
Color the middle with a black felt pen for a feeling of depth below the grating probably where the prisoners are kept
Score the details on the gratings for additional feedback effects.
"There she blows", capn'
There are more details to be added underneath the deck 26. You really have to search hard for some of these parts. The instructions and diagram don't show this hardly at all, so this should help you guys.
This adds thickness to the deck just at the front edge by the deck supports.
This is the color veneer part that goes over the top of the edging.
There is a very slight bow to the deck which is intended, as can be seen here.
p.n.c. 26 - Upper Deck Cannon Barrel Assemblies Build
- Gently dampen the rolled surfaces using a cotton swab dipped in water.
- keep all seams facing downwards so they are less conspicuous.
- Cut card pieces from below to get a cleaner cut and avoid creating protrusions.
- Keep all parts for the assembly together in a container such as a Ziploc bag.
- Paint edges with like colored watercolor paints.
Card:
1) 61 - Barrel - color
2) 61.1 - 1/2 circle - color
3) 61.2 - Muzzle 1 - color
4) 61.2 - Muzzle 1 - card
5) 61.3 - Muzzle 2 - color
6) 61.3 - Muzzle 2 - card
7) 61.4 - Ring 1 - color
8) 61.4 - Ring 1 - card
9) 61.5 - Ring 2 - color
10) 61.5 - Ring 2 - card
11) 61.6 - Plate 1 - color
12) 61.6 - Plate 1 - card
13) 61.7 - Plate 2 - color
14) 61.7 - Plate 2 - card
15) 61.8 - Plate 3 - color
16) 61.8 - Plate 3 - card
13) 61.9 - Plate 4 - color
14) 61.9 - Plate 4 - card
13) 61.10 - Plate 5 - color
14) 61.10 - Plate 5 - card
15) 61.11 - Pivot axle - color
15 Parts per barrel total
14 Barrels Needed - 7 on right, 7 on left
14 x 15 = 210 parts
Last edited:
This is the barrel complete with the flared end. I found it much better to just cut off the tabs for the barrels.
Tiny engineering.
Card muzzle part and color veneer.
Both pasted together.
These are the card rings that encircle the barrel at the middle and rear. It's best to pre-roll these using a round object such as the handle of the X-Acto knife. Also, dampen it a bit to soften the card. Start at the seam and roll it around back to the start.
One ring in place.
Next, add the color veneer piece.
Both rings added to barrel. Celebrate with a cup of tea or coffee ☕
These are the end caps. There are a lot of these guys.
They give the shape of the rear of the barrel nicely. Use the point of the knife to add the part and a pin to apply the glue.
A little challenging. This is the axle pin that must be rolled. I used a paper clip straightened to roll it around.
Pushing the axle pin in place using the paper clip.
p.n.c. 25 - Lower deck Cannon Barrel Assemblies Build
These are the simplest of the cannon parts to build, although there are a lot of them.
- Gently dampen the rolled surfaces using a cotton swab dipped in water.
- keep all seams facing downwards so they are less conspicuous.
- Cut card pieces from below to get a cleaner cut and avoid creating protrusuions so much.
- Keep all parts for the assembly together in a container such as a ziploc bag.
- Paint edges with like colored watercolor paints.
Card:
1) 60 - Barrel - color
2) 60.1 - Flared front tip - color
3) 60.2 - Plate 1 - card
4) 60.2 - Plate 1 - color
5) 60.3 - Plate 2 - card
6) 60.3 - Plate 2 - color
7) 60.4 - Pivot axle - color
7 Parts per carriage total
20 Barrels Needed
7 x 20 = 140 parts
Rolling the flared front of the barrel around a pencil tip.
Tiny engineering.
Card muzzle part and color veneer.
Both pasted together.
These are the card rings that encircle the barrel at the middle and rear. It's best to pre-roll these using a round object such as the handle of the X-Acto knife. Also, dampen it a bit to soften the card. Start at the seam and roll it around back to the start.
One ring in place.
Next, add the color veneer piece.
Both rings added to barrel. Celebrate with a cup of tea or coffee ☕
These are the end caps. There are a lot of these guys.
They give the shape of the rear of the barrel nicely. Use the point of the knife to add the part and a pin to apply the glue.
A little challenging. This is the axle pin that must be rolled. I used a paper clip straightened to roll it around.
Pushing the axle pin in place using the paper clip.
p.n.c. 25 - Lower deck Cannon Barrel Assemblies Build
These are the simplest of the cannon parts to build, although there are a lot of them.
- Gently dampen the rolled surfaces using a cotton swab dipped in water.
- keep all seams facing downwards so they are less conspicuous.
- Cut card pieces from below to get a cleaner cut and avoid creating protrusuions so much.
- Keep all parts for the assembly together in a container such as a ziploc bag.
- Paint edges with like colored watercolor paints.
Card:
1) 60 - Barrel - color
2) 60.1 - Flared front tip - color
3) 60.2 - Plate 1 - card
4) 60.2 - Plate 1 - color
5) 60.3 - Plate 2 - card
6) 60.3 - Plate 2 - color
7) 60.4 - Pivot axle - color
7 Parts per carriage total
20 Barrels Needed
7 x 20 = 140 parts
Rolling the flared front of the barrel around a pencil tip.
Last edited:
Continuation of the p.n.c. 25 cannon barrel assemblies.
I use Ziploc's to keep all the parts that I find together. There is a definite advantage to organizing as you work on the assemblies.
p.n.c. 24 - Top deck Cannon Carriage Assemblies Build
Contruction is similar to the other cannon carriages, with some exceptions. Those will be displayed as follows.
- Gently dampen the rolled surfaces using a cotton swab dipped in water.
- keep all seams facing downwards so they are less conspicuous.
- Cut card pieces from below to get a cleaner cut and avoid creating protrusions so much.
- Keep all parts for the assembly together in a container such as a Ziploc bag.
- Paint edges with like colored watercolor paints.
Card:
1) 59 - Base
2) 59.1 - Base color
3) 59.2 - Rear side color x 2
4) 59.3 - Side card x 2
5) 59.4 - Side color x 2
6) 59.5 - Cannon Pivot
7) 59.6 - Wheels card x 2
8) 59.7 - Wheels color x 2
9) 59.8 - Hub color x 2
10) 59.8 - Hub card x 2
17 Parts per carriage total
12 Carriages Needed
12 x 17 = 204 parts in total
The underside of the carriage. When the glue dries, it will be transparent.
The finished p.n.c. 24 carriage.
Oh, and this was the axle for the carriage (should have been added earlier).
I use Ziploc's to keep all the parts that I find together. There is a definite advantage to organizing as you work on the assemblies.
p.n.c. 24 - Top deck Cannon Carriage Assemblies Build
Contruction is similar to the other cannon carriages, with some exceptions. Those will be displayed as follows.
- Gently dampen the rolled surfaces using a cotton swab dipped in water.
- keep all seams facing downwards so they are less conspicuous.
- Cut card pieces from below to get a cleaner cut and avoid creating protrusions so much.
- Keep all parts for the assembly together in a container such as a Ziploc bag.
- Paint edges with like colored watercolor paints.
Card:
1) 59 - Base
2) 59.1 - Base color
3) 59.2 - Rear side color x 2
4) 59.3 - Side card x 2
5) 59.4 - Side color x 2
6) 59.5 - Cannon Pivot
7) 59.6 - Wheels card x 2
8) 59.7 - Wheels color x 2
9) 59.8 - Hub color x 2
10) 59.8 - Hub card x 2
17 Parts per carriage total
12 Carriages Needed
12 x 17 = 204 parts in total
The underside of the carriage. When the glue dries, it will be transparent.
The finished p.n.c. 24 carriage.
Oh, and this was the axle for the carriage (should have been added earlier).
Those cannons are looking amazing. You are doing a great job. 
I'm absolutey blown away by your build. I love the tiny cannons! Keep up the great work!
- Apr 5, 2013
- 13,499
- 9,551
- 228
I know what is it, you just really like making these things!!
Tank you for the nice comments!I'm absolutey blown away by your build. I love the tiny cannons! Keep up the great work!
Yep, those cannons will keep me busy for a bit for sure!
Yes, I absolutely do!I know what is it, you just really like making these things!!
My wife is sure I'm certifiable 
Hi, I'm back gain after working on my ship 
Those cannons are quite a challenge for sure! Here's the muzzle part at the front. I used a pencil tip to roll it around.
A darning needle is perfect to roll the barrel around after the paper has been wetted a bit. I cut off the tabs for the barrels as it made it much easier to join them and they look much better.
A lot of time invested in these cannons. We are talking weeks of work for these little guys built exactly to the plan. There were no simplifications or substitutions to make it any easier... all paper!
These are the front cannons, the triple barrel deals! Just two of these are needed.
A picture of the actual cannons at the front of the ship. I think they call them "chasers".
Basically, the same construction techniques as the other cannons with some differences.
Super-tiny parts to join the three cannon barrels together into a cluster.
The axle/pivot for the cannon barrel through the middle again, out of paper rolled around a straight pin.
Aahhhh.... matey! A finished barrel setup!
So, here we go! This is a picture of all the completed cannons, carriages and barrels for the ship! These were a LOT of work!
Okay, back to semi-sanity. This is the Waterway, and the Gunwale installation for the front deck.
Wrapping the Gunwale around nicely. Just glue it a bit at a time, and take your time with it.
I found that I had to shave off some of the carriage material to allow the barrel to sit properly. Otherwise, it was sitting way to high up! I just used a new blade and bit of sandpaper wrapped around a small piece of dowel to shape it correctly for all the carriages... yes, all of them! LOL. In the photo below, I am pointing to the 2 areas that need reducing.
Nowhere in the instructions do they mention about gluing the cannons in place! I decided to glue the carriages on the deck as there is another deck platform that goes over the top and makes it impossible to install the carriages. Be very careful with this! There are a bunch of omissions with the instructions this being one of them... a big one.
I also had to shave a bit of the wheels off that re adjacent to the inside bulkhead to allow for the correct angle for the barrels (both sides of the ship).
Remember, a "tiny" amount of glue where its "absolutely" needed is the best approach.
Those cannons are quite a challenge for sure! Here's the muzzle part at the front. I used a pencil tip to roll it around.
A darning needle is perfect to roll the barrel around after the paper has been wetted a bit. I cut off the tabs for the barrels as it made it much easier to join them and they look much better.
A lot of time invested in these cannons. We are talking weeks of work for these little guys built exactly to the plan. There were no simplifications or substitutions to make it any easier... all paper!
These are the front cannons, the triple barrel deals! Just two of these are needed.
A picture of the actual cannons at the front of the ship. I think they call them "chasers".
Basically, the same construction techniques as the other cannons with some differences.
Super-tiny parts to join the three cannon barrels together into a cluster.
The axle/pivot for the cannon barrel through the middle again, out of paper rolled around a straight pin.
Aahhhh.... matey! A finished barrel setup!
So, here we go! This is a picture of all the completed cannons, carriages and barrels for the ship! These were a LOT of work!
Okay, back to semi-sanity. This is the Waterway, and the Gunwale installation for the front deck.
Wrapping the Gunwale around nicely. Just glue it a bit at a time, and take your time with it.
I found that I had to shave off some of the carriage material to allow the barrel to sit properly. Otherwise, it was sitting way to high up! I just used a new blade and bit of sandpaper wrapped around a small piece of dowel to shape it correctly for all the carriages... yes, all of them! LOL. In the photo below, I am pointing to the 2 areas that need reducing.
Nowhere in the instructions do they mention about gluing the cannons in place! I decided to glue the carriages on the deck as there is another deck platform that goes over the top and makes it impossible to install the carriages. Be very careful with this! There are a bunch of omissions with the instructions this being one of them... a big one.
I also had to shave a bit of the wheels off that re adjacent to the inside bulkhead to allow for the correct angle for the barrels (both sides of the ship).
Remember, a "tiny" amount of glue where its "absolutely" needed is the best approach.
This is the Waterway, and Gunwale in place.
Moving on to the rear decks.
Moving on to the rear decks.
Gangways:
Time for the "Gangways". These are a little small to work on too. Here's the first one
I experimented by adding a slight curve to the steps to give the effect that they are well used.
Be careful of the width of the gangway. I had to reduce it slightly as it would not have passed through the square cutout hatch in the deck.
putting the sides next to one-another makes it easier to keep equal spacing for the steps.
Time for the "Gangways". These are a little small to work on too. Here's the first one
I experimented by adding a slight curve to the steps to give the effect that they are well used.
Be careful of the width of the gangway. I had to reduce it slightly as it would not have passed through the square cutout hatch in the deck.
putting the sides next to one-another makes it easier to keep equal spacing for the steps.
You are one of those auspicious builders that make me stay up at night thinking about all that micro-detailing you do. Incredible work! Thank you for showing us the Tools and techniques you use to create these masterpieces!