The rigging is simply mind blowing!!!
You are doing a PHENOMENAL JOB on this project!!!
You are doing a PHENOMENAL JOB on this project!!!
"Flying Dutchman" - Ghost Ship - OREL Russian Paper Model Build
- Thread starter mtrappett
- Start date
- Apr 5, 2013
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Thank you Zathros! Yes, I like that! I will have to see how I can do that in this book I just bought. Its called Historic Ship Models. It has a whole section on sailsThe rigging is awesome. You could have some of the sails furled, as these ships did fly all the sails al he time. Whatever you chose, it will be interesting to see come to fruition.
Soon, we will be getting into the sails which will take a lot of work but very interesting work, at least that's how I feel about it 
This is a super-extreme closeup view of one of the caps. I can't remember which one right now? But, they are all very similar with a few exceptions.
Beeswax is one of the must haves for successful rigging. It helps in so many ways. I draw it through it 3 times a least for a good solid coating on the threads. It helps with tying the thread into the various knots, making the thread "hang" as it should, lubricates the thread through the blocks and so on. I love the stuff! I found that it even helps the CA glue from sticking to my skin!
Another view of the rigging so far. I put some small Styrofoam balls to protect a few vulnerable areas.
Tilting her over into the positions needed for rigging.
View of the strops, chain plates and lanyards for the shrouds.
Using a tiny pilot hole for the eyelet for the very first forestay.
Flux really helps direct the solder to exactly where you need it. It forms a river of solder. Each of the stays at the front of the bowsprit is of different lengths for the strops. They are made from annealed soft steel wire.
This is the lanyard for the very first forestay that is at the very tip of the bowsprit.
Form a loop from the line to drop on top of the pins.
The bitts at the base of the foremast.
From this point forward until otherwise noted, it will be fulltime sails
Yes, they are green in color for the chosen ones I will use which is the canvas ones I got. Man, they are tough to cut out! I use a new blade for each and every sail. By the way, I think my eyes are giving out with all this closeup work!
Here are the paper ones that come with the kit. They are okay, but they don't seem to fall like I would like.
Here's a comparison of the paper and the canvas. The canvas is at the top. Check out the cringles and the other loops. They are delicate so I reinforced them with CA glue, and white glue.
(SUPER TIP) I also used white glue all around the border of the sails to assist the cutting out process because that is VERY tricky! The glue helps stop all the canvas from getting all frayed up when painted on, and it doesn't really show when dry. I first thinned the white glue around 75% water, and brushed it on fairly carefully over the borders of the sails.
This is a super-extreme closeup view of one of the caps. I can't remember which one right now? But, they are all very similar with a few exceptions.
Beeswax is one of the must haves for successful rigging. It helps in so many ways. I draw it through it 3 times a least for a good solid coating on the threads. It helps with tying the thread into the various knots, making the thread "hang" as it should, lubricates the thread through the blocks and so on. I love the stuff! I found that it even helps the CA glue from sticking to my skin!Another view of the rigging so far. I put some small Styrofoam balls to protect a few vulnerable areas.
Tilting her over into the positions needed for rigging.
View of the strops, chain plates and lanyards for the shrouds.
Using a tiny pilot hole for the eyelet for the very first forestay.
Flux really helps direct the solder to exactly where you need it. It forms a river of solder. Each of the stays at the front of the bowsprit is of different lengths for the strops. They are made from annealed soft steel wire.
This is the lanyard for the very first forestay that is at the very tip of the bowsprit.
Form a loop from the line to drop on top of the pins.
The bitts at the base of the foremast.
The Ships Sails
From this point forward until otherwise noted, it will be fulltime sails
Yes, they are green in color for the chosen ones I will use which is the canvas ones I got. Man, they are tough to cut out! I use a new blade for each and every sail. By the way, I think my eyes are giving out with all this closeup work!
Here are the paper ones that come with the kit. They are okay, but they don't seem to fall like I would like.
Here's a comparison of the paper and the canvas. The canvas is at the top. Check out the cringles and the other loops. They are delicate so I reinforced them with CA glue, and white glue.
(SUPER TIP) I also used white glue all around the border of the sails to assist the cutting out process because that is VERY tricky! The glue helps stop all the canvas from getting all frayed up when painted on, and it doesn't really show when dry. I first thinned the white glue around 75% water, and brushed it on fairly carefully over the borders of the sails.
Sails Continued..
The linen sails had some kind of sizing on them that made them stiffer that they needed to be. I soaked a test piece first to make sure the colors were fast and they didn't run. The water was walm with a single drop of Dawn washing up liquid.
This is one of the jib sails. I decided to see what a bolt rope might do, so I glued one in place around the edge of the sail. Although it will stay on these sails, its not something I will add moving forward. This is the inner jib.
The outer jib.
I painted around the edge of the sail so that I could more easily cut it, because, wow, without, its a total disaster. I have to use a new scalpel blade on each sail too.
The iron on its lowest setting with steam works great for getting the sail linen nice and flat.
Temporary placement of the inner and outer jibs.
These are the worn versions of the sails which I like a lot.
These are the non-worn versions of the jib. Paper on the right, linen on the left.
This is the other side of the sails. Its a pity that the linen sails are only one sided but I understand the difficulties of double sided printing on this material.
I experimented folding the paper sail on the imitation seams to try to get some 3D effect but, I wasn't too happy.
A selection of sails I cutout ready. The one on the far right is for the mizen.
I'm getting through a ton of blades cutting the linen to shape.
The clews I have reinforced with CA glue.
Making some of the double blocks for use on the ship,
Just a quick test lash-up with the jib sails in place.
Thanks Zathros. You are very kindThe sails take this model to even another level!!
I wonder how the crew handled sails that had been damaged due to maybe cannon balls ripping off pieces of the sail, maybe completely losing clews, or other rigging required features? Would they just take the lines that were flailing around and tie them down? Or maybe remove the associated rigging completely until the sail could be replaced? I am not sure how to handle this scenario on the model I am building. Its painfully difficult when I fit a sail and find all the rigging I put in place can't be utilized because the sail is incomplete, but by the same token, I like the looks of the damaged sails. Do you have any input, or anyone please?
Glad you like the sails Rhaven, and thank you.
I like to see the sails n a model ship as it appears more complete than just rigging
O man you have doubled the next lvl of paper modeling with the ropes and sails. I dont know how many times I was out of words. You have done it again.
that is most kind, and I'm sincerely pleased you like the results.
I really like the torn sails too. It gives it an old beaten, dark and scary look. I experimented with the different types of sails, but that's the style I like the best for this. I have a few other ideas too that I will have to try.
The torn sails make this model. Unbelievable.
Sails and Rigging Continued
This was useful for referencing the real names of the sails for the Dutchman.
Jibs, forecourse, staysails, mizen and top gallant sails for just a sampling
I wanted to be sure of my choice, so I experimented with all types, materials, and styles for the sails. Yeah, I like the ripped-out versions best
I drilled small holes for the loops of thread. These are called robands. These are what attaches the sails to the yardarms.
By the way, that rounded bottom of the sail is called the "roach". Who knew?
Each roband was sewn individually and cut off.
I like the look of those so they will be keepers.
I added some wear and tear to one of the full sails as an experiment.
Hmmm.... Its okay, but it's a bit off for me.
These are some fantastic reference paintings for wear on the ship through battle.
Okay, that is not on my bucket list! Holy cow!
So those are some reference images that I will be referring to.
I found that working on putting holes in the sails for the clews and so on, was better done with it sitting on a soft surface. The scriber opened up the holes for the needle and thread. Also use the beeswax to help the knot on the thread go through the holes easier.
One of the main sails.
Closeup of the holes.
I cut small squares to place over the repair patches to give a better 3D effect.
The sails look AMAZING! They really give the model a stronger look of "realism"!!!
Sails continued...
This is how it looks with the patch over the "hole" in the sail with the light behind.
The forecourse under experiment and consideration with the sail type and usage. This gives a good closeup of the robands too.
I have found that its a mistake to use CA glue on all the small joints like knots in the line or in general you have to be careful with it. If its used, it will stiffen the line and may cause weirdness with the way the line hangs. It may be too stiff and wont collapse when you need it to. PVA or white glue, will allow for movement with lines and this in some cases is totally needed.
This is the backside of the sail. You can all the knots for the robands. These are what holds the sail to the yard.
I thought to try out a method for burning or discoloring the sail simulating a fire onboard ship, or a cannon ball that may have destroyed the sail. I eventually dropped the idea as it looked too messy for me.
I still have the sail for prosperity or future usage... who knows? Damage to the sail could be:
I added a gray wash to make the sail blend in with the colors of the ship.
A test with it installed on the ship.
These are some examples of ships with furled up sails. I like the top gallant on each mast furled.
There is such an abundance of information regarding model ship building, but it seems very little on paper model ships. Hopefully that an be fixed here. I love paper and card for model building. It has so many advantages.
This is how it looks with the patch over the "hole" in the sail with the light behind.
The forecourse under experiment and consideration with the sail type and usage. This gives a good closeup of the robands too.
I have found that its a mistake to use CA glue on all the small joints like knots in the line or in general you have to be careful with it. If its used, it will stiffen the line and may cause weirdness with the way the line hangs. It may be too stiff and wont collapse when you need it to. PVA or white glue, will allow for movement with lines and this in some cases is totally needed.
This is the backside of the sail. You can all the knots for the robands. These are what holds the sail to the yard.
I thought to try out a method for burning or discoloring the sail simulating a fire onboard ship, or a cannon ball that may have destroyed the sail. I eventually dropped the idea as it looked too messy for me.
I still have the sail for prosperity or future usage... who knows? Damage to the sail could be:
- Fire
- Cannon Ball damage
- Fraying of the base of the sail through age and general wear and tear
- Pieces ripped from the sail
- Discoloration of the linen due to fire
- Loss of clews, or other rigging fixings for the sail
I added a gray wash to make the sail blend in with the colors of the ship.
A test with it installed on the ship.
These are some examples of ships with furled up sails. I like the top gallant on each mast furled.
There is such an abundance of information regarding model ship building, but it seems very little on paper model ships. Hopefully that an be fixed here. I love paper and card for model building. It has so many advantages.