back to locomotive work
This thread has been relatively inactive_ I have been very busy working on narrow gauge locomotives ( Hon3 locomotive shops in the narrow gauge section- if you are interested in improving locomotives, there is some good information there) and with projects for the club.
I have pretty much run out of salvageable HOn3 locomotives to work on, and have gone to work on standard gauge locomotives. There are four on my work bench right now. an MDC 0-6-0T mechanism, that is getting a new motor, it will probably go to Bob at the club, for use on his home RR and or his newly reworked branchline at the club.
I am also working on a Tycho 2-6-2 , which is an early model that has a good Mantua mechanism, with working valve gear. it's Achilles heel was the old 1950's style open frame motopr, which performed poorly on DC, and was wholly unacceptable for DCC. Dave at the club , had picked this up at a yard sale for $5.00, and I have just puzzled out how to install a GM surplus power rear view mirror motor.
I am also working on replacing the motor in a PFM/ United Ma & Pa 2-8-0, which I acquired from Mack Montgomery's M & N G. It looks like it is from the 60's or &0's. United built excelent mechanisms, but like the Tyco locomotive it had a massive , inefficient , open frame motor. I found a can motor that will fit. I used to paint locomotives all at once, but for good results they must be totally disassembled. When I remotor with can motors it is hard to build a motor bracket that is just right; but it is easy to fool around and get a motor alignment that works smoothly , and the glue the can motor in place with silicon tub caulk.
I am painting the frames and cylinders of the Tyco and PFM/United first, so I can get the mechanisms set up and happy before painting the rest of the locomotives and reasembling them.
for painting complete disassemblely is needed I soak the parts in boiling water with detergent for 15 minutes, and then rise two or three times with boiling water. then I soak the parts in vinegar for 15- 20 minutes, ( the vinegar is a mild acid and will etch the metal slightly to allow the paint a rougher surface to latch on to); and rinse with boiling water. from this point on I have rubber gloves on when I touch any of the parts to prevent the oil in my skin from messing up the job.
then working with a fat roll of masking tape, and a razor knife, I cut pieces of masking tape that I sue to mask the journals, necessary electrical contact points, and the United builder's plate .
Once masked I use spay paint, starting with a good quality red auto body primer, and then a black satin , I used to like flat black, but now I want my locomotives to have a little shine, and the satin works well.
I have had some good results with cheap spray paints, but the more expensive brands have better nozzles, and are more consistent, so I like them better, when painting locomotives, that tend to be way more expensive than the paint.
Also on my work bench is my current #6 a NSWL Sierra # 18 a ridiculously small consolodatin with tiny wheels > I am considering making the United 2-8-0 my #6 , and putting a can motor, and a Tsunami sound decoder in the Sierra #18 model, Which has had it's steel cab replaced with brass casting for a wood, cab, and is no longer easily recognizable, and taking it to the club. I had a analog sound system in it back in the 1970's, so I have already hacked up the brass tender. The tsunami decoders are dual mode, so I don't yet know If I will letter the newly painted and rebuilt locomotive for the DG CC & W RR or for the J. E Patterson Coal and Lumber Company.
also the NWSL locomotive has sprung drivers. most sprung drivers have springs that are so stiff the wight of the locomotive doesn't compress them. I NSWL sells springs in several strengths, and I have some wimpy springs to replace the springs with, so i will get the full benefit of sprung drivers ( better electrical pick up and increased pulling power). I don'r yet have a replacement motor, so I need to order one from NWSL. The mechanism on this locomotive is excellent. when I bought it, it was the best running rod locomotive I had ever seen , so there is a lot of potential there.
with the Sierra # 18 locomotive I also have a stack issue. I came with a shotgun stack. I removed that when I went to a wood cab, and a oil headlight, and have since had four stacks on it without satisfaction. My shay # 15 started life with a Radley Hunter, and now has a cabbage stack I'm temped to put the Radley-Hunter from #15 on the consolidation, we will see.
Bill Nelson