Combat Engineering Vehicle - IMR-1 'TEST SHOT' & Full Build

Chuffy70

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Great progress and still lots more work to come.
thank you as always, indeed plenty more to come
Very nice work and documentation. Thanks for that!

Does the friendly tech help or hinder? :sticktongue:
I try my best, if something hasn't been pointed out or needs better clarification, then I trust people will ask.

...and the Tech keeps me grounded, she rules the roost, plus her welding is better than mine! ;)
 

Chuffy70

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Very interesting! Those thick laminations will make the model pretty sturdy - and heavy. :)
@Revell-Fan you are correct on both counts - the old saying 'built like a tank' is coming true already, she's already weighing a ton!

I better have my wits about me when fitting the running gear, just to make sure they will take the weight
:bulgeeye:
 

Revell-Fan

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I noticed that on the AT-ST. The head got pretty heavy and I feared that the legs would collapse. But in the end everything was fine. :)
 
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micahrogers

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I'm truely impressed here, the thickest laminations I have cut yet were only 1mm thick and I dulled three #11 blades doing them. My Mora Garberg bushcraft knife blade is only 1/8th inch thick, so to be cutting 1.8th inch cardboard and paper... Holy cow.
 

Revell-Fan

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I cut each layer separately. That's easier than cutting the finished laminated piece. If you want to cut a 10 mm thick laminated board you could start using a wood saw instead of a blade.
 

zathros

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I have a small bandsaw for thick stuff, and I've been known to cheap using Balsa wood. You're doing great! :)
 
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Chuffy70

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I noticed that on the AT-ST. The head got pretty heavy and I feared that the legs would collapse. But in the end everything was fine. :)
Yes, in sci-fi who cares whether it can actually stand! Until you build one and find out the hard way :sticktongue:
I cut each layer separately. That's easier than cutting the finished laminated piece. If you want to cut a 10 mm thick laminated board you could start using a wood saw instead of a blade.
I like everything cut in one go so everything is precisely the same - it's only cereal box-board. I don't think I'll be going as far as 10mm, that would be some pretty thick armour! :)
I'm truely impressed here, the thickest laminations I have cut yet were only 1mm thick and I dulled three #11 blades doing them. My Mora Garberg bushcraft knife blade is only 1/8th inch thick, so to be cutting 1.8th inch cardboard and paper... Holy cow.
Nice a slow with several slow passes on the thickest laminations with a fresh blade achieves a good clean cut - The Swann Morton scalpels are hard to beat, British steel at its finest :cool:
I have a small bandsaw for thick stuff, and I've been known to cheap using Balsa wood. You're doing great! :)
A band saw would be great, I have a little scroll saw which is a tad too macho for this build, so nice and easy with the blade does it - I wouldn't say balsa is cheating, it's all wood based after all ;)


Nice and clean
20230131_170537.jpg
 

mijob

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I will get my portion of cutting thick cardboard verry soon when I gone build the Tyridium. nice cuttings by the way.
 
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OldMiner

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Excellent work! I would have to use the scroll saw for that stuff. Mine has yet to be run, no space right now. It overlooks the work table though, waiting...
 

zathros

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I prefer laminating to cutting thick sheets. With the right kinds of glue, you can make a laminated sheet extremely firm, and it's a whole lot easier on the hands! :)
 
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snake7

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Wau! First as i saw the model in 1:35 with full interior i though you are crazy to build it. I can't understand why to design it in this scale with full interior.
Then I read that you upscaled it to 1:18. Relieve ;)
But the question is why not 1:25, though it is the ideal scale for paper armor?
Nevertheless, your build and stories are excellent and good luck with the rest!
 
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Chuffy70

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Wau! First as i saw the model in 1:35 with full interior i though you are crazy to build it. I can't understand why to design it in this scale with full interior.
Then I read that you upscaled it to 1:18. Relieve ;)
But the question is why not 1:25, though it is the ideal scale for paper armor?
Nevertheless, you build and stories are excellent and good luck with the rest!
Cheers @snake7 - I was never really into 1/35th, although its a very popular scale for military modellers, but I'm not into that scale. How the original designer made it so small I'll never know!

1/25th, once again a popular scale, although mainly trucks and cars are at this scale, I don't really have anything to fit in with 25th.

So, as I like big models and have quite a few 1/18th scale figures I thought that would be ideal.

Thank you for the kind words, and hope you enjoy more to come in future posts :)
 

Chuffy70

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Small update:
Internal walls have been added, I glued the bottom of the walls to the floors at the curved parts first.
Then I'll gradually pulled the walls in to the outer hull sides and will glue everything together.
However during test fitting - the gap indicated '1' is very flush to the internal wall, which is great - However, '2' has a sizeable gap.

So, a bit of head-scratching is going on here to figure this out - Front glacis plate and rear hull plates seem to be the correct width, but not quite sure whats going on?
20230202_141702.jpg

I have jumped forward to some upper hull plates - constructing this easy flat panel should give me my width to check my measurement across the top.
20230128_201115.jpg

As this tank is becoming heavier, and will no doubt pile more pounds on, I have strengthened the side walls on the wheel mounts.
No lamentation of these parts where called out, but I'm going on instinct these need to be better - I might even fill these with some decorators filler, we'll see.

20230129_122626.jpg

Test fit of the wheel mounts, hopefully all the curves will be as good as this point.
20230126_145538.jpg

more to follow soon...
 

zathros

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This will be a very heavy model. Tou might want to do some of the lower parts with woodd, and the paper laminated over the part. Popsicle sticks and Elmer's Construction Glue is great for permanent solutions. :)
 
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