And so....
I had an idea. I had the idea designed and developed. The idea is in the 'end of prototype' stage.
This idea came from this hobby. This idea was given to me on THIS website!!
The best way to score a mountain fold is from the back of the printed image. I wondered the best way to do that. So, looking around this site, I noticed the popular technique of pin-holeing the paper, then aligning the pin holes from the back of the print and then scoring the line. Works great for straight lines, I used the technique with great success, when building the modules for the Discovery's spine.
But what about complex curves and tiny, intricate fold patterns? Then this technique does not work very well, as in a lot of cases, your intricate fold pattern looks like a target at the rifle range after a busy day.
I asked questions on other techniques, and the general reply was "Just hold it up to the light". Great, but how are you going to score it, holding it up to the light?
And THAT is exactly the reason my idea shone its own light!
So, after many months, I am now using the protoype of my idea.
What you are looking at in the last two pictures of my first post is as follows: The printed page in the pics, is the actual high quality print of the model, used in this build. The page is A3 160gsm. The reversed image is due to the fact that you are looking THRU the paper/cardstock. (The printed side is facing down!)
The camera does not show it very well, but the reversed image is so clear you can see all the fold lines perfectly through the paper.
The paper is laying on a special, optically enhanced, damage resistant, strengthend plate glass.
Beneath this glass, enclosed in a super-reflective casing, lie some of the newest and most advanced LED technology to date.
This LED technology allows me to see THRU paper and CLEARLY see the print on the other side, even up to 280-300gsm!!!!!!!!!
The glass plate is strong and damage resistant enough to allow me to cut, score, burnish, and do almost anything on its surface, without fear of breakage or damage. It even withstands my No.11 and scalpel blades.
The light power is controlable so that you can look thru different weights of paper. You don't want to use the same power setting for 200gsm paper on 80gsm paper, you'd need sunglasses!
The 'highlighted' fold lines are created when you score the back of the page at the fold line. The compressed paper fibers allow more light.
So, I can now score my mountain folds for all my model builds without using the 4 step process of pin-holeing or guess work. I simply place the sheet on the glass, and score the lines. No marking, nothing. One step, replaces four!!!! Now that is progress!!:thumb:
The unit when completed will be about the size and thickness of a 17" laptop.
Anyway, I am using the prototype to build the Raptor, as a stress test.
True, there are light tables around, but can any of them see through the thickness of paper than mine can??? The abilities of my design go far over the top of existing light tables.
So, what do you think? If there is enough interest, I might even manufacture and market them!!!:mrgreen:
On to the build.....
A bit more built last night, not much, as I am busy in other parts of life at the moment.
The main body shell is complete, including the recessed section across the door.
The main sections of the starboard wing are made up and attached to the body.
Gonna try to get the portside to this stage later tonight...
Also, this is standard 'out of the ink cartridge' build, as it comes, so no interior. It is printed on 160gsm A3 sheet done at the local copy shop. No poster board involved.
ops:
