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Discussion in 'Jan Rukr's Astro Racer and Independent Entries' started by Sky Seeker, Dec 8, 2018.
Very good work and good decisions to solve problems. In my case to cut holes I only have an OLFA blade, very sharp, otherwise as zathros says it drags the fibers. If the cut is not very clean (almost always happens) fine sandpaper helps to correct, then pencil moistened and soften with the fingers. The flash stinks, if I use any cut or union looks horrible, stop using it for some time and guided by what my eyes see. When it comes to pieces like those windows Yellow if you can and the design allows it, I try to stick them before closing the main piece, it is easier to use pliers and fit the piece well. Very good work, it goes together beautifully.
Stand / base
As can be seen from the below pics when initially assembling the base of the stand there became an issue of severe warping.
Due to the warping above the base was remade and reprinted. The reason why you see another printed image on the inside portion is that the design is for A4 paper. The model had to be fitted and reprinted for 8.5"x11" paper.
As can be seen below, the old stand is above and the new stand is below. The new stand is much straighter than the old one. Now we get to the tricky part...
The back edge is now joined to the bottom - only the front is not glued together yet.
The front portion is glued - glue three tabs over from the center on either side.
Next while the glue is drying add a FLAT weight while the stand is on a FLAT surface until dried. When the first section is done. Glue the next three tabs on either side from the previous glued sides and hold each side together then apply the weight again as seen below. Continue repeating this process until all tabs are glued to the stand.
Done!! Both sides are now FLAT with little or no warpage.
A comparison shot - the old base of the stand is on the left and the new one is on the right.
The two stand brackets joined to the two base portions. Make sure you have the model on a flat surface when assembling together. Side view.
Front view. Note sign in the upper left hand corner. It goes on the place marked "22" on the base.
That's it for now.
I like the way this is turning out. Those amber slots are cool! I have seen those kind of saucers in some movie, but I cant quite place it.
The original movie was called Ikarie XB-1 . The US version was called Voyage to the End of the Universe.
The underside of the ship has a plurality of saucers docked, while one of the saucers is undocked. That's what the notch on the stand is for.
Thanks for stopping on by.
Yes! I knew it was edge of the galaxy or something!! I have been watching Russian bw scifi lately and it is fantastic! What a great thig to do, making these rare movie props into paper models!
Good resolution, the change is noticeable. It looks very good.
Thank Jan Rukr for that. I'm just trying to build it! More to come soon.
The movie is on youtube, but only in russian and poor quality. Ikarie XB 1 no subtitles. Still a great movie, great models, and looks like the saucers inspired a one armed Billy Meirs.
Main body - underside
Template - note tabs glued underneath. Note also the bottom pieces having central holes that are filled in with the yellow pieces at the top.
Ends glued together
For this piece there are two methods done - Gluing sides along the edges first together - start from each side and work towards the center - bottom view
All glued together - please note to bend the edges downward sp that the ends can meet.
2nd method - glue the ends together first to form a ring.
Next work from the sides towards the center joining the ring to the main body.
Both saucer bottoms together. Note that the one on the left is the first method and the one on the right is done by the second method. Recommend doing the second method.
Add the tops from the bottom up (see below). For further reinforcement overglue the tabs.
Both bottom saucer sections assembled.
That's it for now.
Great job and tutorial to build the saucers. Very well done!
Get yourself a TOOL...can be anything that has a rounded end..Screwdriver... big sharpie...the wife's knitting needle with the end cap ( don't let her catch you!!) and then you can burnish the curved edges of the saucers to a smoother finish!
Even using tabs ( ackk ) this is looking GOOD!!
Great ideas! However, what I ended up doing was using my finger and the surface of the next part to give a more rounded shape. You'll see in the next post.
Lower body - center section - top view
Added the center engine / docking bay. Note the overgluing on the center section. It lines up with the bezel ring. Apply pressure gently to fit the center engine in place then add glue around the periphery. Feel free to add multiple layers of glue due to the tendency to have gaps around the edges.
Lower body - center section - bottom view
Note the bezel area of the center section. Note also the application of the saucer sections. Place these on first before applying the lower body onto the main hull. When applying the saucers curl the edges under slightly and start from the side closest the the center bezel and move away form the bezel. Make sure to glue in stages a few tabs at a time to ensure good contact. Apply pressure from the bottom and top. The pressure flattens out the saucers to conform to the flat portion of the lower body.
The lower main body is added to the lower main hull. Start from the back and work towards the front.
Just line up the rear with the template. Make sure that the edges are colored first before gluing the tabs underneath.
Make sure to press the end FLAT and hold in place.
View of the front
Note the colored edges. Make sure to hold down both sides on either side on a flat body before advancing to the front.
Main body glued to lower body.
Top hull section
The tab at the front has been cut and reglued to the template.
Once the hull is glued together, glue one of the front or rear curved sections of the top first (NOT BOTH), then the center and lastly the last curved area. When done it should look like below.
Overglue the ends to seal any gaps and to strengthen the model.
Upper hull done. Once the top is glued to the upper hull, make sure to add a slight downwards curvature to the top hull.
Upper and lower hulls ready to be joined.
That's it for now.
Lookin real good. Great movie too!. Cant wait to see your work on the saucer.