Ikarie XB 1

[Sky Seeker]

Just thought I'd post the link for another great Jan Rukr creation the Ikarie XB 1. It's got a pretty cool retro vibe to it.

Here it is:

http://www.alienspapercraft.com/ikarie-xb-1.html

Here's a "translation" of the site (if someone has a better translation please feel free to add it here):

Icaria XB 1 is an interplanetary ship for 40 crew members who have space for work, entertainment and sports. Six missile launchers are used to explore the universe, and the motor part of these missiles can act as a remote unmanned ship after separation of the dome.
Icaria is 270m long, 62m wide and 42.5m high. Three outboard engines are constantly used as propulsion engines. If the landing gear is lost, it is replaced in the appropriate position on the hull by the second in the order. The landing rocket has a diameter of 35 meters, it is 16 meters high and can accommodate up to six crew members in a detachable dome. In addition, it is equipped with a cutter and trapping device to take the crew to the outside of the dome.

Word of the author - Slovo autora

In April 2016, I was approached by the NFA (National Film Archive) if I could make the Ikárie XB 1 model from the 1963 Czechoslovakian film of the same name. The model would be complemented by the redefining of the restored high-resolution film. It all started because I had to carefully study the original and look at the whole movie. I was surprised to see that this sci-fi is surprisingly digestible and without a period (understand Communist) pathos. Ship design is simple but surprisingly functional. I do not regret that Stanley Kubrick was also inspired by this film when he created his Space Odyssey (1968).

There was also an American version of the movie called Voyage to the end of the universe. Unfortunately, with a changed story, cut scenes and another end, the film is badly damaged. That is why I really recommend our version here

In the summer of 2016, the work was successful, and I successfully handed the slicer. During the screening of the film in a restored premiere in different cities, 5000 knives were dealt.

The year has passed (2017) a year and I can bring you Ikaria to Alienspapercraft.com

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It's almost a year old, I wonder how I missed it?

Sky Seeker

 

[zathros]

This one caught my eye too.

 

[Sky Seeker]

Hey everyone! Just found some new Astro Racers!

MGS 2002

http://www.alienspapercraft.com/04_-_mgs-2002.html

Legendary Wings

http://www.alienspapercraft.com/86_-_legendary_wings.html

Tie Racer

http://www.alienspapercraft.com/377---tie-racer.html

Enjoy!

Sky Seeker

 

[Sky Seeker]

Ok everyone I've finally gotten around to starting on this model. So here goes...

Starting on the base / stand


Attached the front edge and the rear edge to one leg of the stand.


On the back edge start in the center and work outwards


Attaching bottom


Base sections finished. These are going to be redone for a couple of reasons.

First - on this model for the base edge coloring is NOT needed due to everything having a white / light blue color.:frak:
Second - as the bottom was assembled to the top, significant warping occurred with both bases. :robot1::robot3:

I'll show what I mean in a later post.


Side supports cut out


Before anything is glued on the supports make sure to curl the center as shown below


That's it for now.

Sky Seeker

 

[zathros]

Great start!

 

[Sky Seeker]

Here are some more pics of the support assembly.

Adding on the circular separators. Start from one side and partially glue until the edges match up.




All circular separators positioned with the pack wall added. The top of this assembly can be a little difficult as there are some curves and reverse glue areas. Just be sure to glue each tab in place and allow it to dry. Otherwise it become a big mess.


Note the tab with a "dark mark". The lower section has no way to adhere to the main body so you will have to add some type of tab to keep the lower wall against the front support wall. If you have any gaps just use some glue to fill them in. On this portion of the model the outlines are white so not much coloring is needed (if at all).




First support closed and assembled. Be sure to match up the top of the circular spacers with the openings of the support. Make sure you do the alignment while the glue is drying.


Second support. The second support has an additional openings along the front. Be sure to make additional tabs to hold everything in place. Glue alone won't cut it.


That's it for now.

Sky Seeker

 

[zathros]

I always recommend cutting off those damned tabs, and using a couple of strips, and a bead of good blue, like if you were welding it., still, coming out really nice!!

 

[Sky Seeker]

I always recommend cutting off those damned tabs, and using a couple of strips, and a bead of good blue, like if you were welding it., still, coming out really nice!!

There are a couple of portions on some other pieces of the model where it will be essential to cut off the tabs. So yes, I will finally do what you and Gandolf have been preaching for eons.

Sky Seeker

 

[zathros]

Domini Domini Deus paperum, we are all paper modelers now.

 

[Sky Seeker]

New pics - top section

Template top - at this point I was trying to figure out weather or not to have tabs for the center section.




Showing cut tabs at corners for overlapping the corners for assembling.


This is being shown close up to show a potential problem area on this model. On the center section side tabs were cut from the white areas. Then the lower section was attached to the upper section. The big tab at the bottom was cut and re-glued. When attached this gives a smoother appearance. Be sure to "train" the paper (e.g. - pre-curve the paper BEFORE assembly). This is done by GENTLY bending the paper in key areas to alleviate stresses in the paper. YES it is a stress / strain thing!
ATTACH=full]170656[/ATTACH]

Everything joined on the left side with overgluing for reinforcement.


The right side on the top section was a bit of a "problem child". :frak:

I had to cut away the tabs at the center and try something else. The paper at this point was seriously mauled and I wondered if the top was going to be scrapped at this point.:robot3: Note also the "windows" (I don't know what else to call them they could be engines for all I know) at the upper left corner all assembled.


Here's the solution - 6 tabs were cut out and glued underneath the problem area (see dark square areas).


The center section was glued on top of the makeshift tabs and held in place. Then the main tab area was glued together.


Overgluing the section to give additional support.


The top section ready to be fully assembled.


That's it for now.

Sky Seeker

 

[Sky Seeker]

Additional pics - top section



Problem child area -assembled. Note the long tabs on the side. If these are NOT folded up as shown below you WILL have significant bowing around the "window" frames / edges.


Top - window assembly
Note that the corners are attached FIRST then work your way around.




Once assembled you will notice some gaps at the corners. This is due to note having any tabs near the corners. Any tabs formed were used to reinforce and make the corners for the windows.


To compensate for the gaps - overgluing is done to fill in the spaces.











If anyone has any ideas for the corners to smooth things out that would be great.

In real life the ends on the top look better. The flash brings out all of the little imperfections. Sometimes though that's the only way one can see any issues.

Big thanks to Z and Gandolf for the cutting off of the tabs. On this model it's quite necessary in some spots.

That's it for now.

Sky Seeker

 

[zathros]

Bigger than life brings out things you would not otherwise notice. I have set of curved headed scissors I purchased from Micheal"s Craft Stores that really cut nice radii. I like then better than X-acto, or other cut off blades. Punches work great too, if you have a large assortment of them. Member "Nando" uses them a lot, his models come out excellent. Anything that cuts on the same plane, or pushes the paper fibers down is best. Knives or blades tend to drag the fibers as/and they get dull fast.

 

[Sky Seeker]

Bigger than life brings out things you would not otherwise notice. I have set of curved headed scissors I purchased from Micheal"s Craft Stores that really cut nice radii. I like then better than X-acto, or other cut off blades. Punches work great too, if you have a large assortment of them. Member "Nando" uses them a lot, his models come out excellent. Anything that cuts on the same plane, or pushes the paper fibers down is best. Knives or blades tend to drag the fibers as/and they get dull fast.

Z,

I really could have used a pair of curved scissors this last time around especially for the top and the engine areas. You really notice the paper fiber issue, especially when you color the paper with a pencil if it's not cut right. Being left handed and using right handed sewing scissors can be a literal pain in the knuckles with sometimes not so great results. However, all complaining aside one makes do with what one has got! Sometimes it even miraculously turns out ok.

Sky Seeker

 

[zathros]

Sometimes, wetting the edges, then pushing the fibers, and edge, and forming the wet edge with your fingers, then let completely dry, can yield great results.

 

[Gandolf50]

Dude! That's how we have been trying to promote using tabs all along!! You got it now!! Get the sharper cuts and you be jamming!!

I use an OLFA snap knife with a 9mm ACC blade... each blade has 13 new cutting surfaces on them, as soon as I 'FEEL" the cut dragging snap it off and go to town with a new edge... they are thick enough to wiz through .5mm card and double cut 1mm. I only use my #11 for really small stuff and usually use them for "penetration" cuts into the surface and small curves.

 

[Sky Seeker]

Sometimes, wetting the edges, then pushing the fibers, and edge, and forming the wet edge with your fingers, then let completely dry, can yield great results.

You know I just realized that when you look at the pics of the top that they get blown up to about 3x the size of the real thing! Great recommendation regarding the wet edges. Will try that next time when the opportunity arises.

Sky Seeker

 

[Sky Seeker]

Dude! That's how we have been trying to promote using tabs all along!! You got it now!! Get the sharper cuts and you be jamming!!

I use an OLFA snap knife with a 9mm ACC blade... each blade has 13 new cutting surfaces on them, as soon as I 'FEEL" the cut dragging snap it off and go to town with a new edge... they are thick enough to wiz through .5mm card and double cut 1mm. I only use my #11 for really small stuff and usually use them for "penetration" cuts into the surface and small curves.

Yeah, you're right about the sharp blade. I probably need to get a new X-acto blade and a new pair of sewing scissors.

Thanks for the praise regarding the tabs. I'm a slow learner, but occasionally I get there sooner or later.. mostly LATER!

Sky Seeker

 

[Sky Seeker]

Bottom section
Templates


Center engine


Center engine - Note the cut tab on the edge reassembled to the model and glued.


Center engine - Gluing the tabs around the edge - tamp down the center portion as best you can. This actually "locks" every thing in place.


Center engine - after tamping it should look like this (see below)


Center engine - Then glue the tabs in place.


Lower body portion - Note the tabs before cutting.


Lower body portion - Note the tabs after cutting.

Lower body portion - Note the tabs after cutting and glued in place.


Close up view


Lower body portion - Ends glued together.


That's it for now.

Sky Seeker

 

[Sky Seeker]

Lower body portion - Mid center tabs glued. Note the areas around "12" are NOT glued yet.


Lower body portion - Left hand side glued near "6". Right side not glued yet.


Lower body portion - All areas glued in place with overgluing done to further reinforce the model. You'll need it for the next step.


Center engine with bezel


Ram scoops - one assembled, one unassembled


Ram scoops - both assembled


Ram scoops - Note the left scoop. Tabs are NOT needed on the center section (plus they get in the way) as the center section provides a good sized surface area for gluing to the lower body section. Also note the coloring of the front edge where the tabs have been removed. This covers up any mistakes you might make while cutting off the tabs and to remove edge glare.


Ram scoop attached to the front of the model on only the lower section. At this point the sides for the ram scoop are NOT joined yet.


Ram scoop glued on the left and right sides. Note how the front portion at the top of the model bows upward.


Ram scoop - After the left and right sides are joined to the lower section, push down the bowed section gluing the left and right sides until you have a tiny bowed section, then push all the way inverting the bowed section. This forms a flat edge as shown below.


That's it for now.

Sky Seeker

 

[Sky Seeker]

Lower section - both ramp scoops assembled to the lower section.


Lower section end view




Lower section - Engine bezel ring installed on the center section. Note the coloring around the edges and on the inside of the bezel ring.


Lower section - Overgluing the ram scoop areas and the center bezel ring. Note that the area labeled "7" is the front / bow and the area labeled "8" is the rear / stern.


That's it for now.

Sky Seeker