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Walter2

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The beginning. I thought about the easiest and most beautiful way to punch the holes. After several attempts with scrap paper, the best way was to use a hole punch. The important thing is NOT TO HIT THE HOLES, but to use them precisely, press and turn them a little, which cuts out the hole cleanly and goes quickly (see the pictures). I use the handle of a lollipop as the axle.
The next step is to cut out, fold and glue the legs. Report to follow.
 

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Walter2

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Phase two. Cut out, fold and glue. I cut out a part with four leaves glued together as a test.
Important: cut out and fold exactly! This is about the smallest dimensions. Cutting out the four glued-together leaves was very difficult, so cut carefully and with a lot of patience. Then finish the part with fine sandpaper.
I think this will be a tedious task...
 

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Walter2

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Hello folks,

I feel like a surgeon and watchmaker at the same time. You can't get very far without a scalpel (!) and fine nail scissors, the parts have to be cut out too finely and precisely. You can see this on the longer narrow part (border) with the narrow slit in the middle. This last sheet 9 had to be printed on normal printing paper. The bottom left part is finished, now the whole thing again for the right. By the way, the yellow-orange part on one side has to be painted on the outside of the curve.
Well then, here's to another one, but I have to say it's still a lot of fun...

Season's greetings
 

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snake7

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Great start. May I ask on which paper did you print? Density?
And very useful tip with hole punch. I also have those, but still unable to use them properly.
 

Walter2

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I usually use 160g DIN A4 as model paper. I also have 120g, depending on the situation. In this model, only 160g is used, except for the parts that are used for framing (for example, where the green arrows point). Normal 80g printer paper is sufficient here. Unfortunately, you can't see the frames on this sheet, which could be cut out. I will point this out in future.
 

zathros

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I've never used hole punches, (not with paper). I should get a new set. Usually I use drill bits. I usually make an undersized hole, with maybe .010" left to go, glue the edges with a hard glue, especially if that hole is going to pivot. Then, after the glue dries, I finalize the hole size. If your punch is really sharp, and you have the right backing, the paper doesn't crush, which was the problem I was having. Looking at the parts you have made, it seems that you've mastered this. ;)
 

mijob

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Thats a good sugestion to use a hard glue when you frill holes. I have the same problem I will give it a try.
 

Revell-Fan

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I've never used hole punches, (not with paper). ;)
Te trick is to use several "dummy layers" to give the punch some "meat". If you only use one layer of paper the hole will not be fully punched through:


;)
 

Walter2

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As mentioned above, I use the punch and turn it three to four times by hand, do not tap it. This way I achieved a nice round hole.
The legs are now finished, now it's time for the thighs (red arrow). I'm happy so far, it wasn't that easy.
 

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zathros

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It looks like the legs articulate. They came out great! :)
 

zathros

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This is going to be a very high level version build of this model. ;)