track plan layout help

Hmmmmmmmmm?

My wife reminded me that a CD we sent to California took 2 weeks to get there. They don't call it snail mail for notheing ;)

Thanks for the update :D

I can't wait for it to get there either!

The clown practices his magic in the mean time (that back-palming is hard!)

Waiting in the wings.

TrainClown
 
Very Interesting

You got a interesting formula there Clark. And a rise of 11.28" would be accurate if the rise started at the edge of the circle, but if you look closely at the plan you will see that the rise starts before the track enters the circle. Taking this additional rise into account then the total rise will be 12" or better, depending on how much ramp leads up to the helix. This way there is room for the return track that skirts around the front edge of the mountain through a tunnel.

So the rise of track depends on the elevation of the helix.

Good point though. A fine detail that I had to work out when I planned it.

Thanks for the interest. :)

TrainClown
 
Hi TC
You are absolutly correct. My formula only takes account of the helix itself so any rise in the approch track or the exit track would be added.
BTW I can't remember how many times in high school math when we were studying trigonometry I said "this is a waste of time. I'll never use this stuff after I get out of school." :D :D Just goes to show you never know when you'll put to use something that at the time seems irrelevant.

Just for future referance, the SIN of an angle is the Opposite side divided by the Hypotenuse. The Cosine is the Adjacent side divided by the Hypotenuse, and the Tangent is the Opposite side divided by the Adjacent side.
Most calculators today, except the real cheapies have trig functions, so anyone can easily determine the degree of any angle or the length of any side.

So much for your math lesson for today, class dismissed. :D :D :D
 
Hypotenuse

sorry about the flashbacks, I know that they can be traumatizing. :)

The hypotenuse is not a big animal that lives in the rivers of Africa. :D It is the side of a right triangle opposite the right, (90 degree) angle. In simpler terms, if you take an ordinary sheet of paper and fold it at an angle, the folded side is the hypotenuse. Or to put it another way, if you take the two sides that form the 90 degree angle of a right triangle, it is the one that is left over.

That should make things as clear as mud. :confused: :rolleyes: :( :D
 
Train Clown

IT ARRIVED!! What an awesome job you did! The painters are starting in the room today. I will be sure to start taking pics from here on out. Before I start on your benchwork, I'm going to construct a perimeter line with a reverse loop about a foot below the ceiling. Should create some added action and interest.

Once that is done, I will install my shelving units and then....the benchwork begins!

I'm pumped. We will stay in touch. Thanks again so much to you and your wife. I love Canadians
 
Train Clown

The room is painted and material ordered for the upper rail. Once that is done, we will be ready to begin benchwork. I will be sure to take pictures as the work progresses.

Two questions:

1. In the helix design, do the clearances take into account cork roadbed?

2. Would it be possible to get a track plan using Atlas track. So I buy the right stuff? Radius of the various curves. Basically, a count on straights, curves, switches, etc.
 
Now the fun starts

As far as I can tell you should have no problem with cork road bed. I never did know the actual height of your trains and so I allowed as much clearance as I could muster within a reasonable grade. It should work, but only a test will tell the truth. So How much room dose your trains need, say, from the surface of the road bed, including the track?

As for the track radious I can help you there. As for number of straights? I figured you would use flex track for the gentle curves and straight aways. Other than that, to get an accurate count of tracks required, I would build the road bed first, then with a few sections of curves and strait bits of track, lay out the track and draw the outline of the tracks as you go piece by piece. You can try using a track planning program to figure this out, but I would prefer to do it in the real world, because in the long run you will get a more accurate count of what you actually need.

I will post a radious plan to help you out. I will post this as soon as I can work it out.

I just took a guess when it came to the turnouts so you will have to work those out for yourself. I will include the radious I used to figure them too.
 
me again

If it was me, I wouldn't use homasote. I would make any surface texture with styrofoam covered with plaster cloth. From what I understand, homasote is used to cut down the sound and styrofoam works better, but you said you want to use cork and that is the best of all. It depends on what you feel comfortable with. I think the lads use homasote as a cheep substatute for plywood before styrofoam came along. I think it has no redeeming value and is just a way it use to be done, and is still done by die-hards who are still comfortable with it.

By the way, my work computer has been acting up and wont let me change and work with images for some reason. Once I have this fixed I will post the radious plan.


P.S. beef is good..........YUM :D
 
I think the main reason that homosote is stil used is because it holds track spikes. If you glue down flex track, there is no need for anything like homosote, but if you want to handlay track needing to be spiked down, it is tough to beat homosote.
 
Train Clown

Guess what? I have not fallen off the face of the earth. I have completed the upper shelving with roadbed and track. Even got a train running yesterday. I will now begin taking some pictures and figure out how to upload them to you.

I should be able to start on the benchwork this week.
 
Good News!

Nothing like a little train running to put steam in your boiler.

I can hardly wait to see the new benchwork, and what you have already done.

Remember to take your time, don't rush the work. Measure 2 or 3 times and cut once, if your not quite sure, cut a litle long and then trim to fit. Use a square to lay out all right angle cuts to keep things square, and pre-drill all the holes for your screws so nothing splits.

One last tip, to make things extra solid, glue all joints with white glue.

Best Wishes

TrainClown
 
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