Undercoat plaster now added, and a start can be made on decorating and putting the icing on the cake.
http://www.badger-creek.co.uk
http://www.badger-creek.co.uk
The saga continues with Badger Creek
- Thread starter shamus
- Start date
Shamus,
Lookin' good! What have you used to support the plater, between the top level and the roadbed? (of the road) and what did you use to colour the plaster?
TOOT!
Lookin' good! What have you used to support the plater, between the top level and the roadbed? (of the road) and what did you use to colour the plaster?
TOOT!
Shamus, it doesn't look like plaster, it looks like stone!
Are you pouring on site, or putting in pre poured dry slabs? How long after you pour it in an area before you carve it? What are you using to carve it with and how do you achieve the grainy texture to the plaster?
So many questions, are we all dizzy yet??
??
George.
Are you pouring on site, or putting in pre poured dry slabs? How long after you pour it in an area before you carve it? What are you using to carve it with and how do you achieve the grainy texture to the plaster?
So many questions, are we all dizzy yet??
George.
Hi all,
To support the plaster, I used card strips interlaced.
It's undercoat-plaster and I carved the plaster whilst it was still drying out, that it's natural colour, still have to paint it yet.
Shamus
http://www.badger-creek.co.uk
To support the plaster, I used card strips interlaced.
It's undercoat-plaster and I carved the plaster whilst it was still drying out, that it's natural colour, still have to paint it yet.
Shamus
http://www.badger-creek.co.uk
Shamus,
That explains the colour. After painting, does any of the original colour show through? I tried to "carve" niches, cracks etc into the plaster as it dried. I used a plastic artists pallette knife. It tended to drag lumps out of the plaster, so after that I brushed with water to smooth it out a little. It gave the shape I wanted of weathered sandstone, and the brush marks were enough to give the rock some grainy look.
TOOT!
That explains the colour. After painting, does any of the original colour show through? I tried to "carve" niches, cracks etc into the plaster as it dried. I used a plastic artists pallette knife. It tended to drag lumps out of the plaster, so after that I brushed with water to smooth it out a little. It gave the shape I wanted of weathered sandstone, and the brush marks were enough to give the rock some grainy look.
TOOT!
Hi Woodie,
When it is all painted, none of the original plaster colour will show through.It will all look similar to this photo.
http://www.badger-creek.co.uk
[This message has been edited by shamus (edited 06-02-2001).]
When it is all painted, none of the original plaster colour will show through.It will all look similar to this photo.
http://www.badger-creek.co.uk
[This message has been edited by shamus (edited 06-02-2001).]
Here's some more of the re-build, starting with how it looked in the first place.
http://www.badger-creek.co.uk
http://www.badger-creek.co.uk
Well Shamus, as you have so much underbrush it is no wonder that plaster doesn't show. Looking forward to seeing this project completed.
------------------
Robin
NARA member #2
http://members.nbci.com/Matthyro MAT
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Robin
NARA member #2
http://members.nbci.com/Matthyro MAT
Just out of curiousity Shamus -
I seem to remember you mentioning that you used Peco track. (I know I spotted a Peco wye in that last shot)
Do you use the "Streamline" code 75? (whatever it is, your trackwork looks SUPER!)
I'm wanting to use this on my HO layout. I'm at present re-laying the track on my N scale layout, using Peco code 55. I've thrown out the handlaying gadgets, & the Micro-Engineering crap, & am not looking back, thanks to this wonderful product from the U.K. (y'all sure know how to do things right!)
I'm serious, whatever model railroading I do from now on, it's going to be with Peco track, & those wonderful turnouts!
Thanks again for sharing your wealth of knowledge with us Shamus. I think we've all learned a lot. Keep up the good work!
I seem to remember you mentioning that you used Peco track. (I know I spotted a Peco wye in that last shot)
Do you use the "Streamline" code 75? (whatever it is, your trackwork looks SUPER!)
I'm wanting to use this on my HO layout. I'm at present re-laying the track on my N scale layout, using Peco code 55. I've thrown out the handlaying gadgets, & the Micro-Engineering crap, & am not looking back, thanks to this wonderful product from the U.K. (y'all sure know how to do things right!)
I'm serious, whatever model railroading I do from now on, it's going to be with Peco track, & those wonderful turnouts!
Thanks again for sharing your wealth of knowledge with us Shamus. I think we've all learned a lot. Keep up the good work!
Hi All,
Nearly finished the plaster side of things and start putting the icing on the cake.
Charlie,
Peco code 100 is what I am using for my HO, but code 55 in N-scale is super to use, I used it on my old N layout.
http://www.badger-creek.co.uk
Nearly finished the plaster side of things and start putting the icing on the cake.
Charlie,
Peco code 100 is what I am using for my HO, but code 55 in N-scale is super to use, I used it on my old N layout.
http://www.badger-creek.co.uk
98% of the switches on my N scale layout are Peco. I wouldn't use anything else.
------------------
Robin
NARA member #2
http://members.nbci.com/Matthyro MAT
------------------
Robin
NARA member #2
http://members.nbci.com/Matthyro MAT
New part now complete, this is the only photo I have of the finished area, others in the Lab waiting to get deved/printed.
http://www.badger-creek.co.uk
http://www.badger-creek.co.uk