well I usually work on my current model and/or mini painting for my son from 22h00 (kids are sleeping) to 2h00 or so (I need to go sleeping) with a short time for small stuff or publishing a post from 8h30 (back from walking my daughter to school) to 9h00 (time to go to work)
Storm Talon
- Thread starter silveroxide
- Start date
and silveroxide, I just bought some styrene sheets and I am thinking about building at least one dreadnought from the other designs floating around with them for painting.
As always, you are doing a FANTASTIC job on this model.
Watching the way that you detail the models that you make, always fascinates me.
With every model that you make, I learn something new, and this is no different.
I will be following this thread.
Watching the way that you detail the models that you make, always fascinates me.
With every model that you make, I learn something new, and this is no different.
I will be following this thread.
If you ignite these and they work, then I think I'll drop right there and then!
I would like to start it up, but I cannot find any cold fusion fuel for it.
Grrr, I hate terrinecold and I hate you!!!
why do you have so many time to build such beautiful models?
Apart of jokes, your level of detailing is very high, I wonder how much time do you spend to build a model.
I have very little time and the tendency to start more than 3 project at one time (and the tendency to leave everething unfinished)... I'll watch out this tread, so can I ask you to put a little "time spent inidcator"
I see that you are also building the storm talon, I hope that some of my techniques can be of help to you. As for the time I spend building, well It is raining over here and I cannot do much outside the house. I am one of those who are blessed with being a pensioner (I like that better than retired). I have spent about four hours up the date on building, maybe about ten to fifteen minutes taking the photos and updating and editing them. If I were to have built this stock from the sheets, it would have been finished already. It is hard to gauge my time since I just build and forget about the time. The only thing to bother me, is my Daschund who keeps reminding me that he needs to GO!
One of my first styrene builds was also a 40K model, the old style Rhino. If you should attempt it, keep in mind, that any piece of material can be of use, such as paper clip wires, Electrical phone wires. Extra parts from a built model and so on. The only barrier towards building a good model, is your imagination. Post it later on in the other things we do section.
Thanks Rhaven, My method is to impart the knowledge that any model can be enhanced and I hope that some of my methods will come to good use.
WOW!! that was a lot of comments to reply to.
So on with the next batch of photos. The wings are a little too flimsy so I do what I do best, LAMINATE, LAMINATE. Because I changed the property of the original design, I have to insert it into the engine pods to maintain integrity. I forgot to compensate for this and the wings are slightly shorter than called for. If you laminate them, add an extension to go into the slot. Talking about the slot, Make that cut when it is flat. Once the model is three dimensional, you have to be extra careful in cutting the slot out. I also had to make some internal support for the wing slots. Enjoy and see you all next posting. I have a bunch of photos to edit for your enjoyment.
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In continuation with the build, Here is another technique for the missile pylons. The front and back were laminated heavily, especially the front. The reason for the heavy lamination, is so the it can be drilled and the front will not collapse or get destroyed by the drill bit. I started the drill with the smallest drill and drilled again two more times with increased size of the drill bit. If you start with the larger drill bit, it will tend to move and destroy the part. With the smaller hole, the larger bits will have a guide to drill on. For the front edge of the pylons, I wrapped a black card strip and then I rolled a white strip around it. This will give it a deeper depth like on the GW version. Enjoy and I will see you soon with more stuff and techniques.
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Ah yes, Silver Oxide is in his element again. 
:thumb:
Nice to see you jumping right in to a new one. This proves to be just as interesting and informative as your Chariot thread. I'll be lurking along here in the wings enjoying the mayhem. sign1
:thumb:Nice to see you jumping right in to a new one. This proves to be just as interesting and informative as your Chariot thread. I'll be lurking along here in the wings enjoying the mayhem. sign1
Z
Zathros
Yes, really great. I have started drilling in the paper for the first time a couple days ago to place magnets in my dreadnought and I can appreciate the different advices.
Thanks for the detailed reporting of the build
Thanks for the detailed reporting of the build
Ah yes, Silver Oxide is in his element again.
Nice to see you jumping right in to a new one. This proves to be just as interesting and informative as your Chariot thread. I'll be lurking along here in the wings enjoying the mayhem. sign1
Thanks threadhead, there is still more to come
Agreed!
Thanks for the vote of confidence Zathros
That dremel is a versatile tool, but you have to be careful with the carving and drilling. I usually wait till the glue is set but sometimes I get impatient a start to drill and the glue sticks to the grooves of the drill and pulls the piece apart. If the pice is still wet and you start to sand it with the dremel, the glue will clog the sandpaper and make it hard to sand it properly. Enjoy the drilling and waiting to see your results.
Now to continue with the build. At the present I have started with the fuselage from the back to the front. There is some minor fit issues but I will see how to overcome them. Here I started with the rear of the missile pylon. Too many pesky tabs so I just laminated to the thickness. Instead of hand painting the part, I wrapped a thin strip of black card stock and I am going to leave it black. The vents are too close in this part to be able to properly cut them out so I just raised the surface with thin panels.
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Still working on the fuselage and trying to overcome some of the fit problems. It is coming along very well in spite of that.
So here I am starting on the nose gun tub. Took the tabs off and recessed the gun mount. With a strip of card stock, I made the tub ring for the traverse. This section of the thread took a while because of the details that will follow soon. Enjoy and see you all next post.
So here I am starting on the nose gun tub. Took the tabs off and recessed the gun mount. With a strip of card stock, I made the tub ring for the traverse. This section of the thread took a while because of the details that will follow soon. Enjoy and see you all next post.
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Z
Zathros
Why do you prefer to take off the tabs? How do you support the pieces to be glued without them?
One of the problems I have with my models is keeping the parts "square". Does removing the tabs and placing your own supports help that?
One of the problems I have with my models is keeping the parts "square". Does removing the tabs and placing your own supports help that?
Z
Zathros
I make L shaped pieces to the appropriate length. The reason i write "L" shaped, is because I only bend enough to get a 90 degree bend or whatever degree bend is needed. A simplified small picture is attached. I trim the tabs so they don't overlap. This also serves to form an inner frame or skeleton that adds significant strength to the assembly, and can even serve to help anchor an inner box for strength if needed.
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The intakes look so awesome in that side view!
Thanks Zathros, But it is just a slight cameo appearance from the left side, but in retrospect, it does look almost like P......!!!! ALMOST
I usually take off tabs but I do use them as well, it depends on the model. For airplanes, I definitely take them off and make tabs that I glue from the inside. This method allows for the parts to one built flush and not have a part overlap and have a raised surface where one should not be.
Here is the next batch of photos which is mixed gun barrels and landing gear. The reason for the mix match is that I have to wait for the parts to set before I can handle them. especially the barrels.
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Silver,
Could you choose a different color for your callouts? Red is hard to read against some of your backgrounds. Perhaps a medium grey?
Could you choose a different color for your callouts? Red is hard to read against some of your backgrounds. Perhaps a medium grey?
I was just looking at that. The focus was slightly off on the camera. I may have to revert to the dialogue box style I did with the chariot.
thanks, most of the time they were easy to read but for those last one, like Armorman I had a hard time. Great great build, and I have been digging up the previous thread you made here and on Dakka. I still have a good way to go both in my building and my reporting it.
After photo number 76, I will re-do the captions the same way I did with the chariot thread. In the meantime, here are the next set of photos for your enjoyment. The first one is where the model is at the moment. Enjoy and see you all next posting.
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