Proteus II (modernized RT era Landraider) by Patoroch

Sudsy

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Started a new project during that Tapatalk mess that I didn't post here yet. I created this specifically to introduce papercraft modeling to another game enthusiast site called YakTribe (where you can find the PDFs for the GW Specialist line of games like Necromunda, Mordheim, and Gorkamorka....). I dropped a lot of Zealot user names for where I learned methods, so hopefully we'll see some YakTribesmen come over to Zealot.

I was drawn to this project after reading an old copy of the Warhammer 40,000 Compendium from back in the Rogue Trader era. Landraiders were the first models Games Workshop created align with the Rhino and Pedator Tank (both of which are essentially the same vehicle, one with a turret). Forge World updated the design slightly, but kept most of the features, and the Proteus II is much more true ot the RT era vehcile than the current plastic kits of the Landraiders (which are a newer design that only has been around since late 3rd Edition/Early 4th). The design clearly shows the WWI inspiration for Imperial vehicles. Eli Patoroch recently released this kit as a PDF.

This first section is the main hull construction. Photos in the thumbnails will begin with where I stopped my session and end where I started... So, feel free to start at the bottom and reverse view.

For anyone interested, here is where I first posted these photos: https://yaktribe.games/community/threads/sudsy-builds-with-paper.9079/

Yaktribe is a fantastic site for finding free rules, especially the vehicle heavy Gorkamorka rules. In fact, that is what drew me into papercrafting armor; trying to find a cheap way to get a group of truks, buggies, and bikes for my orks and Dustrats...

Here, I won't jabber about the 'basics' as most folks here know the basics. In fact, if you all see an error in my descriptions of your techniques, feel free to chime in with PM's or messages here so I can correct the Yaktribe posts with the best information possible. I'm a zealous missionary of papercraft these days!

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One thing I learned on this one is using 'angles' inspired by 90 deg. extruded angles to keep a sheet from warping in the middle... Score one for sheet metal box design!

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Sudsy

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Next 20 detailing my greebles and how I get there. Of note, I found my gunsmith screw driver bits very handy for precise rectangular shapes pressed into the thick card. Jewlers screw drivers and other precise machine tools certainly will work as well.

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zathros

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You are one fast builder, and the quality does not suffer either, great!! :)
 
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Sudsy

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You are one fast builder, and the quality does not suffer either, great!! :)
I can build a lot in a couple of hours, but this project has been on my bench a few weeks. Mostly waiting, especially waiting for dust to settle after a couple change to the forum here!
 
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zathros

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I can build a lot in a couple of hours, but this project has been on my bench a few weeks. Mostly waiting, especially waiting for dust to settle after a couple change to the forum here!

I'm wearing a dust mask!! :)
 

Zergei619

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you should do a guide explaining the 90 degree extruded angles and see comparison with and without them im really interested in them
 
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Sudsy

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you should do a guide explaining the 90 degree extruded angles and see comparison with and without them im really interested in them
I will have to get more into that! It might be a couple weeks before I get the time to create a guide, but I will certainly give it a go.
 

Sudsy

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After a few months, I finally got back to this project! Took a bit to figure out where I left off though...

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I started with patching a gap I discovered when I primed the first major sub-assemblies of the hull, the gap between the roof and the hatch greeblies:

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It was about 2mm, so it was only a matter of laminating a couple layers of card and cutting out the porfile I needed and gluing them to the bottom of the hatches. This being paper, I'm not worried about the primer not covering 100% of the model!

Then I remembered, I needed to start the track sub assemblies with the road wheels and side walls. Well, start with the sides so the road wheels have something to attach to first!

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Usual build process here. Oh, and I found coated No. 11 blades for $1 less than un-coated No. 11 blades. So I will let everybody know if they are worth it other than being $1 cheaper this time.

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I'm skeptical about if that coating is going to impact blade life at all for me!