- Apr 5, 2013
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Hey, on a misty day, you would see that "Haze" on the lights. It adds an ethereal look, like it is gaining a mind of it's own!!
"PaperLaul's Terminator 2: Hunter Killer Aerial - by DanBKing"
- Thread starter DanBKing
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When I do the final 'beauty shots' of the model, I intend to be smoking tobacco, or preferably, some other appropriate smoke-able substance, thereby providing the smoky/misty atmosphere .........
Thanks R-B!
The one problem I have found, if you use high intensity LED's, is that the smaller you go in scale of the model, the light intensity becomes 'out of scale' to the model. It's just too bright. But, there are ways to overcome that problem, like sanding the lens, coating it with glue, all sorts........
As long as you do not cut through to the anode and cathode, you can abuse the lens as much as you want; cutting, sanding, grinding, etc .....
Just experiment......
Thanks R-B!
The one problem I have found, if you use high intensity LED's, is that the smaller you go in scale of the model, the light intensity becomes 'out of scale' to the model. It's just too bright. But, there are ways to overcome that problem, like sanding the lens, coating it with glue, all sorts........
As long as you do not cut through to the anode and cathode, you can abuse the lens as much as you want; cutting, sanding, grinding, etc .....
Just experiment......
Thank you very much for the advice. I appreciate it greatly!
I think that a Thunder Fighter at 1:50 scale (which is the scale of UHU02's Viper MK-2 model) will be as small as I will go with it. (I am looking at doing the same with UHU02's Viper MK-2 as well.)
Mmmmm. At that scale, you'll be better off with fiber optics, I think .....
Indeed. When I put super bright white LEDs into my Revellogram Cylon Raider I had no idea how bright they actually would be. I had to reduce the brightness by inserting a resistor with a value ten times larger than before to protect the viewer from getting blind. It is similar to the effect of colour. The smaller the model the lighter the colour because a small model has less surface to reflect the light than a big model. I learned this lesson myself when I was painting the little Snowspeeders that came with the mpc AT-AT model kit. I painstakingly replicated the weathering using a picture of the actual filming model. In the end the model looked like a piece of briquette...
If you overdo the lights the model will suffer from the Titanic syndrome (named after the effect that was seen when the ship was sinking; right before it broke apart all lights were switched on in order to serve as some kind of beacon in the dark night). This effect can sometimes be seen on Star Trek models, when the builder has cut out ALL windows and illumined the model from within...
If you overdo the lights the model will suffer from the Titanic syndrome (named after the effect that was seen when the ship was sinking; right before it broke apart all lights were switched on in order to serve as some kind of beacon in the dark night). This effect can sometimes be seen on Star Trek models, when the builder has cut out ALL windows and illumined the model from within...
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Yep, colour IS light ......
http://www.cybermodeler.com/color/scale_effect.shtml
http://www.theaerodrome.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3997
http://www.cybermodeler.com/color/scale_effect.shtml
http://www.theaerodrome.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3997
thats great dude, i always liked this HK since i saw the movie back in 84[?] and glad to see not only a good paper model of it, but your great build of it, good job on the lighting too, and paint job. keep the voltage under 5 volts 500 milliamps and you will be fine and not blow any leds unless they are those glue drop microleds. a 240 resistor with a 9 volt batt will work in anycase. Zathros could probably come up with the exact diodes and resisters off the top of his head, if you ask him. might want to throw a 10 mf capacitor in there with a diode after it to keep the light steady without pulses.
Of course.... That's a good tip. I mainly used them for fading effects, never as a stabilisator.
chrome paint and silver paper sometimes can conduct electricity, i recommend using shrink tube over all exposed wiring, or just plain rubber or ceramic to cover the bare wires where ever they show up.
That has already been done.... I do not want any electrical shorts, because of bare wires.
Once I close the fuselage, that is it. There is no going back for repair ......
I have already covered all 'exposed' wires/connections/etc, with shrink-tube, just to make sure....
source: http://i1.wp.com/www.theterminatorfans.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/02/The-Terminator-10-large.jpg
Well .........
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source: http://41.media.tumblr.com/99d55a284cac95011e21a0c2a29c7bc6/tumblr_inline_nwk47elpQ31sgrwlu_400.png
"And now I rub my eyes, for he has returned!" ~ Pearl Jam - Off He Goes.
Ok, I'm back.
Don't ask where I've been, ya'all don't wanna know..........
I'll let your shock wear off a bit and I will post an update on this project later this evening....
Laters!
Ok, I'm back.
Don't ask where I've been, ya'all don't wanna know..........
I'll let your shock wear off a bit and I will post an update on this project later this evening....
Laters!
YAY! DAN IS BACK!!!!
rinks:rinks:rinks:rinks:rinks:
THANK GOODNESS!!!
I was just about to PM you to find out if you are still alive..!
rinks:rinks:rinks:rinks:rinks:THANK GOODNESS!!!
I was just about to PM you to find out if you are still alive..!
Thanks for the welcome back everyone.!!
Let's get on with it then!!!
"If you fell down yesterday, stand up today." ~ H. G. Wells
Within a few posts, I think I will be making history here on Zealot!!
I have searched all forms of references via the Terminator films and the internet, but cannot find one single image or anything that shows this version of the Hunter Killer landed on the ground with its legs unfolded and in use.
Every single (plastic) model available out there, from all manufacturers, depicts the HK in flying mode only!!
So, this model I am building will be the first one ever, that is depicted as landed!!!
But, if I wanted to follow the herd, I can make it simply into flying mode also!
So, the best of both worlds!!
This baby needs 4 legs to stand on. I built one leg already as the test model, now for the other 3 .....
The two front legs are actually a little smaller than the two on the back, but the build sequence is exactly the same for each size.
This pic show the upper leg assemblies in various stages of construction.........
The build process is the same as shown earlier in the thread.
One part of the build process that I didnt show earlier, was how I assembled the swivel arm.
As shown earlier, the leg tube fits into a tube in the swivel arm. The sides of the swivel arm are also thickened out with 2 layers of 1mm card on both sides. When the swivel arm is folded up, there is an exact 1mm gap between the sides and the leg fitting tube. Perfect for the two swivel plates to fit between
A strip of card is then cut to the correct width, coiled up and this is fitted between the swivel plates to keep the spacing correct. This can be seen in the top pic.
Once the upper leg sections were assembled and mechanically working correctly, it was onto the lower leg sections next... Same build process as outlined earlier .......
Once these were complete they were attached to the upper sections. I just need to finish the greeble panels and it is off for the final finishing and a primer coat.
The photo shows the legs in various configurations.
I showed earlier how I made up the attachment pods for the rear legs. The front ones were similar...
I made the pods the same way as before, but the front swivel tubes attach directly to the added mounting plate that will fit into slots cut into the main frame cross brace.
The pod assemblies have been rough sanded and filled here and there. A quick coat of primer shows I have a bit more work to do on them yet ......
Now that the legs and mounting pods are almost complete, I am going to attach the legs to the pods before I finally install the pods to the main frame.
But, that will be in my next installment......
Let's get on with it then!!!
"If you fell down yesterday, stand up today." ~ H. G. Wells
Within a few posts, I think I will be making history here on Zealot!!
I have searched all forms of references via the Terminator films and the internet, but cannot find one single image or anything that shows this version of the Hunter Killer landed on the ground with its legs unfolded and in use.
Every single (plastic) model available out there, from all manufacturers, depicts the HK in flying mode only!!
So, this model I am building will be the first one ever, that is depicted as landed!!!
But, if I wanted to follow the herd, I can make it simply into flying mode also!
So, the best of both worlds!!
This baby needs 4 legs to stand on. I built one leg already as the test model, now for the other 3 .....
The two front legs are actually a little smaller than the two on the back, but the build sequence is exactly the same for each size.
This pic show the upper leg assemblies in various stages of construction.........
The build process is the same as shown earlier in the thread.
One part of the build process that I didnt show earlier, was how I assembled the swivel arm.
As shown earlier, the leg tube fits into a tube in the swivel arm. The sides of the swivel arm are also thickened out with 2 layers of 1mm card on both sides. When the swivel arm is folded up, there is an exact 1mm gap between the sides and the leg fitting tube. Perfect for the two swivel plates to fit between
A strip of card is then cut to the correct width, coiled up and this is fitted between the swivel plates to keep the spacing correct. This can be seen in the top pic.
Once the upper leg sections were assembled and mechanically working correctly, it was onto the lower leg sections next... Same build process as outlined earlier .......
Once these were complete they were attached to the upper sections. I just need to finish the greeble panels and it is off for the final finishing and a primer coat.
The photo shows the legs in various configurations.
I showed earlier how I made up the attachment pods for the rear legs. The front ones were similar...
I made the pods the same way as before, but the front swivel tubes attach directly to the added mounting plate that will fit into slots cut into the main frame cross brace.
The pod assemblies have been rough sanded and filled here and there. A quick coat of primer shows I have a bit more work to do on them yet ......
Now that the legs and mounting pods are almost complete, I am going to attach the legs to the pods before I finally install the pods to the main frame.
But, that will be in my next installment......
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