- Apr 5, 2013
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It can work, but only with water forming the parts after you glue them together. This means you must use a Pigment based Inkjet printer, and waterproof glue.
MIKURU - Animefigur
- Thread starter Walter2
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It can work, but only with water forming the parts after you glue them together. This means you must use a Pigment based Inkjet printer, and waterproof glue.
Another way is to assemble the model as is first by scoring all fold lines to see how the pieces go together. Do not worry about aesthetics, this is just a test to see if the parts fit and how they are assembled. When the test is finished you can print the model again and go for a smooth assembly.
The test will show if there are intersections, too. These have to be removed first or the parts won't fit at all. Intersections are overlapping pieces which prevent a proper assembly. These are not caused by Pepakura but by the designer who did not pay attention to remove them in the first place. You can remove intersections on a printed template by cutting off small amounts of the troublesome areas. There is a lot of care and some trial and error involved. Intersections on a 3D model can only be removed in a 3D modeling program. Pepakura cannot do that.
The test will show if there are intersections, too. These have to be removed first or the parts won't fit at all. Intersections are overlapping pieces which prevent a proper assembly. These are not caused by Pepakura but by the designer who did not pay attention to remove them in the first place. You can remove intersections on a printed template by cutting off small amounts of the troublesome areas. There is a lot of care and some trial and error involved. Intersections on a 3D model can only be removed in a 3D modeling program. Pepakura cannot do that.
I use an inkjet printer and glue everything with waterproof glue.It can work, but only with water forming the parts after you glue them together. This means you must use a Pigment based Inkjet printer, and waterproof glue.
You give me so many good tips and really encourage me to start the figure again. Because - so far I've managed every model, but the figure runs a little differently.
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Steam will work, too, even on non-pigment-ink printers:
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Corsage (Rose & Prairie Gentian) by Canon (Artist: Emiko Yamamoto) & Photo book
Hello fans, today I present to you the Corsage (Rose & Prairie Gentian) by Canon / Emiko Yamamoto which you can get here. I made this for a dear colleague who left us to gain experience in a different branch of the nursing profession. The template was printed on my trusted 160gsm paper. The...
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i have no problem with rounding, but as you can see from the two pictures, everything is just edges, i can't round much. Anyone who has already worked with pdo will certainly know this.Steam will work, too, even on non-pigment-ink printers:
Corsage (Rose & Prairie Gentian) by Canon (Artist: Emiko Yamamoto) & Photo book
Hello fans, today I present to you the Corsage (Rose & Prairie Gentian) by Canon / Emiko Yamamoto which you can get here. I made this for a dear colleague who left us to gain experience in a different branch of the nursing profession. The template was printed on my trusted 160gsm paper. The...
Anyway, the new printouts are already ready...
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I took a look at the model. There are no intersections, so that is good. Cut in the flaps to multiply their number and to make them smaller. That might help. Of course the best way is to cut them off and use paper strips on the back side to join the parts. Pay attention to where the parts meet. The seamlines are a good guide. Tackle one part at a time and take your time.
- Apr 5, 2013
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There are many edges in the figures, but there are many edges in the actual Anime' that the figures come from. Figures are the only model that I am of the opinion Pepakura does very well. With some extra work, I also cut the parts so the lines are gone, that way you just have color to color edges, the best results will be achievable. You will not think it came out good, while everyone else will say, "Well done!". We all know ow hard these models can be, and in fact, they really do look good when finally finished.
I think the most awkward part I ever did was the white part - the chest. The good thing about the whole thing, however, is that you can cover up parts that are not so successful with other parts afterwards (stitches, hair, etc.). So you can conceal some things. I can't wait to see how the back part fits together. I've noticed that the more parts you add, the less precise the whole thing becomes. Let's see.
Next I'll adjust the shoulder...
Next I'll adjust the shoulder...
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still looks very unconventional, but that's the way it is. It was quite a fiddle. Let's continue with the lower body.
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