LEGO Luke X-Wing Pilot!

DAVESTAR

DAVESTAR

Well-Known Member
Oct 25, 2013
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Project: LEGO Luke X-Wing Pilot
Date: 2/23/2014
Designed by: NINJATOES
Pages: 12
Why: The LEGO Movie / Star Wars / Movable!

Tools:
Scissors and an X-ACTO knife if needed
Metal wire (from clothes hanger) for holding down glued flaps inside the model
Epson R320 Printer

Materials:
Elmer's Craft-Bond Paper Craft Glue Gel
Kodak Photo Paper (kinda glossy - the cheap thin one - good for buttons)
Silver/Mirror/Metallic card stock/inkjet paper
Clear or Blue transparency sheet

Printed the first couple of pages and will start with them. Once I purchase some silver/mirror paper for the chrome light saber handle and a transparent sheet for the “light” part of the saber, the rest of the pages will be printed.
Lego-00.jpg

Ordered a Lego Luke pilot - got one but it came with a gray light saber handle – so I ordered a chrome light saber handle. Yes the postage was more than the little piece – but it matches the model now – it is not in mint condition so it’s not for collecting – just wanted one to compliment the model. (OK truth time - got it to have at least something if the model does not work out...;))

According to the designer, this is the first version of Luke that LEGO made (1999).
Lego-000.jpg Lego-0000.jpg

Finally found some silver/mirror card stock, it is 12” x 12” so had to cut it down to 8.5 x 11 to fit in the printer. It is kind of thick so I thought for sure it would not feed or jam – but it worked fine.
Lego-01.jpg Lego-02.jpg

Unfortunately, the ink even after several hours of drying just wipes off – it won’t stick. I suppose I can still try to cut it out without wiping the ink off. If that does not work I could print on regular paper and place it on top and cut it like that – the ink on these parts are for cut/fold lines only – no color or art work.
Any suggestions from the masters out there would be appreciated!
Lego-03.jpg

Another issue may be gluing this stuff to itself – it is glossy and in trying to glue some scraps I noticed it does not bond well. May need to score the gluing surfaces with the X-Acto to help adhesion.
Update: Found that if you cut the "mirror" layer off to the bare paper it works. (Made a new sword handle cover for the Fencer model.) This will be tough on the smaller parts. The "mirror" finish does not crack when it is folded.

Found some “window decal” transparency paper – but, while it is clear – one side is sticky – it is not a static cling type of decal. Seems to have printed well but it will be interesting to assemble since one entire side is sticky – the saber is a tube so it might even help. If it does not work, I’ll have to buy the real thing.
Lego-04.jpg Lego-05.jpg

Here is the first attempt. The sticky backside picked up smudges and finger prints and made them plainly visible. The adhesive on the backside was not strong enough to keep the top and bottom caps flat so here I am experimenting with regular Elmer's Glue. I'm not liking the look, so I may end up trying real inkjet transparency paper or colored transparency paper. Would really hate to give in and use printed paper.
Lego-06.jpg

The saber is looking to be the most difficult part due to the materials.

More to come, thanks for following along...
 
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Thanks Behzad!

So I have ordered both colored transparent sheets and inkjet transparency paper. I'll try both to see which looks the best.

Also got some "aluminum" inkjet paper to try as an alternative to the really thick card stock.
It is very thin and has a shiny metal finish on both sides. It cuts and folds ok, but now the problem is if it can be glued to itself. Here is an experimental piece with Elmer's glue - we'll see if it holds well enough in the morning. I really don't think its thick enough.
20140227 015.jpg

Here we have the parts for the head and at various stages of assembly.
20140227 001.jpg 20140227 003.jpg 20140227 002.jpg

Again, this all about having fun...
20140227 010.jpg 20140227 006.jpg 20140227 008.jpg

Back to assembly...
20140227 012.jpg 20140227 011.jpg


Finished with the head - starting on the body
20140227 014.jpg

Have I mentioned I hate round curved parts? :rolleyes:

More to come...

Thanks
 
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Haha! The fun pics are funny indeed, especially the fencing and the cycling!

This is looking awesome so far. BTW, I have written a little tut on how to handle silver metallic / coated card. Take a look at this, please:
http://www.zealot.com/threads/papercrafting-with-coated-silver-card.174867/

However, I just noticed that the pics are missing (obviously I'll have to relink them). You may find them in the original thread here:
http://www.zealot.com/threads/crichton-from-buck-rogers.172375/page-7

I hope this helps! :)

BTW, I too hate rounded parts...! ;-)
 
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Hey Revell-Fan, that model was awesome! Thank you very much for the tips!:) The saber is definitely going to take the most time. The ink on the aluminum "paper" is not wiping off but that stuff is pretty thin - plus the pieces pulled apart easily with Elmer's glue. Back to work...
 
So here we are a little further along. The light orange marker being used for the edges is too dark, its almost red. The head and arm joints fit snug - had to carve out/down the parts.
201403202-002.jpg 201403202-003.jpg 20140303-002.jpg

More to come...
 
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Still poking along... The "hands" were a challenge!
20140314-001.jpg 20140314-002.jpg

Done with the "top". Some parts are a little tight.
20140314-015.jpg

...
 
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It's looking really good so far! I can imagine that the hands were very tricky. I guess the rest will be a walk in the park compared to them..! :)
 
Actually Revell-Fan, the helmet is almost two pages of parts by itself. I still think the chrome saber and clear blade will be tougher.

Here is the waist before being sealed. This model uses a lot of "bigger gluing tabs" with slots to align pieces. These "bigger" tabs are not glued flat - just straight through. I went ahead and folded them down and glued them in the back for extra strength - that is those I could reach.
20140318-001.jpg

Below is the right leg and some of the inside parts.
20140318-003.jpg 20140318-004.jpg

Still have the left leg, helmet and saber to go...
 
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This thread is a piece of brilliance!
Not only informative but thoroughly enjoyable, complete with lightly comedic relief.

I have a similar LEGO-style kit, and am wondering about the tabs and alignment markers for the small cylindrical pieces constituting the joins/joints for the various limbs.
...Do you have any tips regarding the assembly of such components, or is it a case of proceeding as cautiously and carefully as possible?
I ask, because I have difficulty in getting even ordinary 80gsm copy paper to conform properly when rolled. Proper cardstock is difficult to obtain here, so I tend to laminate 80gsm to required thicknesses where necessary.

Kind and Respectful Regards Davestar,
Uyraell.
 
That was one of those - "oh I've gotta take a picture of that!" - the flip flap plant was icing on the cake.

Uyraell, thank you for your kind remarks. I cut the slits with a knife before cutting the parts out so there is more support to prevent tearing. Also found that cutting the slits a little longer on both sides and using the knife blade to widen the slit - by wiggling it back and forth made it easier to assemble - oh, and not too much glue (if any) on the tips of the alignment tabs as they will get "damp" and bend easily - which makes getting them in the slit quickly before the glue drys on the other tabs a little nerve racking - also my hands tend to shake which only makes assembly all that more fun :mad:. Make sure to push down on the part firmly till dry so it does not "puff" up - that is lift up on just the tips of the tabs. As for alignment, eye-ball it and move the part so it is in the center of the part you are attaching it to. As you see can below, even with the alignment a little off, the paper will probably give just enough to make the illusion believable.
20140325.jpg

I'm not familiar with the paper you mention, but the type I use does occasionally "split" at the edges if there is a fold near a small part - just have to add glue between the split too. Pre-rolling a carved part using a smaller diameter pencil helps keep the tension off when drying. Below are some pics which may be overkill - my apologies if you don't need this. (I learned it here)...

20140325b-001.jpg 20140325b-002.jpg 20140325b-003.jpg

Rolled one time, now start with the opposite end and roll it again. Hold it on the pencil
for at least 30 seconds. After this it will want to stay rolled maybe even in a smaller diameter than you want - that's OK - it'll "open".
20140325b-005.jpg 20140325b-004.jpg 20140325b-008.jpg

Oh - and always, aways pre-fit each part before you put glue to it!

For any of the master builders that might be following along, please feel free to share your expertise with us! I know I am not an expert - you won't hurt my feelings :confused:

On to the helmet - at least its mostly white and the edges don't have to be colored!:rolleyes: (I get a F- on the waist - could not get a light gray- they are all too dark!)

More to come...
 
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These look like they are really hard to make. You make it look to easy, your not fooling me!!! :)
 
Thanks pittpenguin123 and zathros for the advice and encouragement.
Been riding a lot and just too tired to concentrate in the evenings, ,
But - I have one side of the helmet done..
LL20140602.jpg
 
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