GPM Dragon Wagon

[exzealot]

To all,

I just finished the GPM Sherman. (See separate build thread).

As promised, I am now going to build the Dragon Wagon. The DW model was designed by the same guy that designed the Sherman. Both the Sherman and the DW are very nice models, but both lack engine details. However, this is a plus for me since I am a novice at building paper models.

As a "lessons-learned" from the Sherman build, I am going to have the color professionally matched (for the edges). I took the Sherman to work, and while everyone was amazed that this was a paper model, a few people pointed out the edge coloring. ops: A little disappointing, but this kind of honest feedback is important to me since these comments provide the inspiration for wanting to improve on the next model.

I am looking forward to working on the Dragon Wagon. As I dive into this model, PLEASE point out mistakes or areas that need improvement - I have learned alot from members of this forum who were willing to be honest and helpful. Otherwise, ignorance is bliss.

Ken

 

[NYC Irish]

Can I just ask what you mean by Professionally matched and to what? A paint or coloured pencil?

Best of luck with it, I have the kit but have to admit its outta my league

John John

 

[exzealot]

John John,

I will be taking the model booklet to the paint store and have them color match it using their equipment. A quart of paint is probably the smallest quantity I can get, but at least the seams and joints will be invisible.

I don't use colored pencils - I like paint because it hardens the edges and makes them less subject to damage from handling during assembly.

Ken

 

[Stev0]

People are easy to point out flaws rather than benefits.

Human nature.

Thing is. Your edge coloring did improve. Every model is a step towards improving technique. Why build if you can not be challenged.

I await the Dragon Wagon.

As for what you have already built. I think it would be rather easy to get yourself a proper lamp and touch up edges on what you have already built if you really want to change it. You pretty much learned the hard parts by building the Sherman ... a tank I thought would be the hardest one.

I would paint for edge coloring. But my problem is color consistency and my use of acrylics.

Anyhow. Let's not start Dragin' on this Wagon. lol

 

[charliec]

I will be taking the model booklet to the paint store and have them color match it using their equipment. A quart of paint is probably the smallest quantity I can get, but at least the seams and joints will be invisible.

Lots of paint stores will make up a "sample pot" from the colour match machine - usually this is around 250ml (1/4 pint?) - costs (in Australia) about $A5. This scheme is in Norway as well since Johnny (WAK Luchs, etc) gets his edge colours by this route.

Regards,

Charlie

 

[exzealot]

OK - Here we go!

The model calls for .5 mm cardboard underneath the frame parts. But I couldn't figure out how to minimize the resulting corners. So I embedded pieces of balsa wood inside the frame rails instead. But this created a gap between the flanges (see picture 3). This was filled with 1/2 mm cardboard (picture 4).

Also, I finally nailed down the correct color (I think). Research on the Internet revealed that there are so many variants of the color during the WWII years. Then there is the "fading" effect. Even the manufacturers of model paint are different. With the help of a non-colorblind friend, I settled on a mix of 2 parts Green Drab (FS34086) to 1 part Faded Olive Drab (no FS No.). What you see in the last picture is the result. The world's worst critic (my wife) says it looks good. I am going to run with that.

Ken

 

[Fishcarver]

Ken: You have a "Dragon by the Tail" here, but just carry on! If you do as good work here as you did on the Sherman, it will turn out fine.
Jim

PS: Go here Kartonbau.de - Alles rund um's Kartonmodell... | abgeschlossene Bauberichte | M25 Dragon Wagon / GPM / 1:25 [FERTIG]

 

[exzealot]

I made a little progress on the Dragon Wagon.

Picture 1 - Shows the front winch. I will attach the spool later.

Picture 2 - The cab floor and frame reinforcements

Picture 3 - The engine/transmission

Picture 4 - The air filters

Ken

 

[exzealot]

More progress:

Pictures 1 and 2 - Transfer case

Picture 3 - The endcaps for the air brake reservoirs (I believe). Per Charliec's recommendation, I tried the "soak in alcohol" method of softening the paper to aid in bending the paper in 2 directions. IT WORKS! The endcaps are round without slits. Note that I ground the end of a drill bit to acquire the shape I needed.

Picture 4 - The tanks themselves.

Picture 5 - The shock absorbers and the front leaf springs mounts.

Next: The leaf springs.

Ken

 

[KCStephens]

Ken, You're off to a great start. You really nailed the edge color this time - it's a perfect match. Keep up the good work!

 

[col. kurtz]

:thumb:looks really good ken

 

[NYC Irish]

oh wow hats off to you on your build

John John

 

[Stev0]

OK.. I gotta point out your edge coloring.

It's seamless with the overall color scheme. Mission very successful.

 

[exzealot]

I'm happy with the edge coloring now.

The leaf springs are straight forward as far as the build goes, but they are tricky in a different sense. The English instructions state to glue the leafs to thin cardboard, but neglected to say how thick. The selection of cardboard is critical since the vertical dimension from the spring mounting eyes (on the ends) to the bottom face of the axle mount must be accurate. This is so the vehicle won't sag or stand too tall in the front.

My springs do not take on an arc shape since I used slightly too thick cardboard, but the aformentioned dimension is correct, so the vehicle will sit properly.

Ken

 

[exzealot]

And now: The front Axle.

Picture 1 - The pieces that make up the axle.

Picture 2 - The main axle with the front gear cover (before shaping).

Picture 3 - The technique that I use to form spherical parts from petals. I just fill the inside of the petals with lots of glue, then use a drafting hole template - using progressively smaller and smaller holes until the part is formed. Works really great!

Picture 4 - I used white tacky glue to fill low petals - also used plastic sprues to make the spring perch bolts.


Ready to paint.

Ken

 

[exzealot]

The first picture shows the painted axle glued to the springs. Care was taken to ensure that the axle was mounted correctly so that the front wheels will be centered in the fender openings.

The second picture show the front steering spindles and steering arms. The drag link is made from plastic sprue.

Ken

 

[uglyguy9]

this is looking great ken
when you built your sherman did you cut the treads or use laser cut?
i really want to build a tank but the treads give me nightmares......i think i'll use laser cut
anyway i cant wait to see more pics of this ken
cheers mate
phil

 

[charliec]

this is looking great ken
when you built your sherman did you cut the treads or use laser cut?
i really want to build a tank but the treads give me nightmares......i think i'll use laser cut
anyway i cant wait to see more pics of this ken
cheers mate
phil

Thread hijack alert.....

I don't think there are laser cut tracks available for the Sherman (or any other rubber block (skeleton) tracked tanks). Try the M3 builds over at papermodelers.com for some ideas on building the M4 track.

Regards,

Charlie

 

[KCStephens]

Man, Ken...You are working so fast my eyes are geting blisters... sign1


Great job - keep it up!

 

[uglyguy9]

Thread hijack alert.....

I don't think there are laser cut tracks available for the Sherman (or any other rubber block (skeleton) tracked tanks). Try the M3 builds over at papermodelers.com for some ideas on building the M4 track.

Regards,

Charlie

went to look at the pics there but i think it requires rego to view........my tombstone is gonna read "member of many forums" sign1

EDIT...what about these? Paper Model Store
eBay Store - Laser cut: Paper model