Enclave Power Armor build (Fallout) [FINISHED]

[daishi]

Finished:

Original:
Ready to start on another Power armor model from the Fallout universe.


First appearing in Fallout 2, the "Advanced Power Armor" was used by the Enclave. And was the most badass thing you could get in the game next to the M72 Gauss rifle (personal opinion)
It also appeared in Fallout New Vegas as the Remnant (of the Enclave) Power armor, and quasi retconned by Bethesda as the X-01 in Fallout 4.

The model is from Fallout 4 and I was originally going to make it with an Enclave paint job, but a modder with the handle Jerros made some brilliant paint-jobs, mostly inspired by "various concepts based on the Vietnam War, WW2 and other military based Sci Fi themes".
So I couldn't resist making this one using that. I didn't really like the snarling teeth on the helmet so I changed that with a yellow/black stripe, more in line with the armor I used in the game lately .

As I usually do, I started with the helmet, The eyes are more goldish than silver, following more of the original color scheme than the silver ones used by Jerros.

 

[Rhaven Blaack]

I have to say that, that I greatly enjoy watching these build threads. It looks like you are off to a really good start!

 

[zathros]

Everything you build is superb!!

 

[DanBKing]

And he is back at it again......!

Another forthcoming masterpiece, I am sure....!

 

[daishi]

The helmet needs some more work, but the basic shape is done. I will do the piping later with the torso.
Instead I started work on the legs. Progress is good so far...

This armor has extensive protective plating on the feet so I did not include some of the overly detailed feet parts in this template, like with the previous two armors.
The heel and the main actuator housing (I guess you can call it that) is still to be built.

 

[zathros]

Running out of words Daishi!! Your skill is worthy of praise. The texturing you give these parts is so authentic. :Bravo:

 

[Cybergrinder]

Amazing!

 

[daishi]

Thx!

The texturing you give these parts is so authentic.

For that I cannot take the credit. It is all the "original" ingame texture and my printer. In this case the modded textures made by a modder named Jerros. (He DID do an awesome job on them thou )

 

[zathros]

Thx!

For that I cannot take the credit. It is all the "original" ingame texture and my printer. In this case the modded textures made by a modder named Jerros. (He DID do an awesome job on them thou )

Maybe I used the wrong word, "detailing" is more apt!

 

[daishi]

New weekend new update ....

Finished with the other knee and upper leg. While doing that I realized I switched the bottom part of the legs, the ankle joint stub should be on the outer side. Took some scalple work but it is corrected now.

Also finished with the arms. I intend to make some detachable Tesla nodes for the armor, so added magnets to the appropriate places inside. The placing was done by putting magnets on the outside and putting a magnet i dipped in glue on the inside. The outside magnets are visible on some of the pictures. They were removed after glue on the inner magnets have set.

 

[zathros]

Very nice. You really know how to make the seams disappear!

 

[daishi]

Very nice. You really know how to make the seems disappear!

Thx! I'm using several shades of gray marker pens/brush pens + a technique similar to the one DjPinter described here (http://www.zealot.com/threads/getting-an-almost-seamless-hull.177057/)
I just use the back tip of my curved tweezers insted of something straight, since I usually do it on curved surfaces. I will try to take a few step by step pictures of this ... if I can remember

 

[DanBKing]

Mmm. I used a similar technique when I built your Frost Dragon.
I went over every seam with the tips of the tweezers, a bit like pac-man, to shape and blend the seam, following the contours, of course.
I used water-colour pencils to colour the edges and blend the texture where needed.

(And BTW: I WILL finish the diorama for the Frost Dragon. Promise.... )

 

[daishi]

I took some pictures to show how I minimalize the visibility of edges. This was made on a a flat part to make it more easy to show, but this works with most curved parts as well.
First the freshly cut parts get some coloring on the edges, usually with brush marker pens (or what they are called). I have a few different shades of gray (and some base colors).

When the coloring is done I glue the parts together.

Then I use the flat back end of my tweezers to push the back part out a bit, and voila.

 

[daishi]

This weekend I was working on the torso.
This is the part that will hold the legs, the arms, the helmet, and the breastplate together. It is basically the same Power Armor Frame that I've build for my T-60 with much more details.
This time I'm only building the parts that will be visible under the breastplate, so much less work.

 

[Rhaven Blaack]

Thank you for sharing how you minimize the edges. I like the technique. Once I start building again, I am going to have to remember this and try my hand at it to see if I can get the same (or at least close to the same) results.

This is really coming together beautifully!!!

 

[daishi]

The weekend was kind of hectic due to Easter, but managed to build the remainder of the foot, and some of the back armor.

 

[Revell-Fan]

This looks amazing!

 

[zathros]

Using the backsides of pieces attached too tabs is about the only thing they are good for. I advise most people to remove them, as they do not work with them properly, and end up with big gaps showing. This thread shows great technique. Maybe you could address the pros and cons and when you should use tabs, and when you shouldn't, and "tab" preparation to avoid gaps.

 

[Rhaven Blaack]

This is coming together beautifully!!!