The base looks GREAAT!!!
Now I am really cross with fact that I could not find metallic cardstock!:curse::curse::curse:
Now I am really cross with fact that I could not find metallic cardstock!:curse::curse::curse:
Crichton from Buck Rogers
- Thread starter Revell-Fan
- Start date
Hey, it's a robot. A robot. DESTROY! DESTROY! DE -
oops, wrong show! :mrgreen::mrgreen::mrgreen:
That base looks like it's made of sheetmetal, really cool. :thumb: Now I have to go on a quest for metallic paper. :curse: More pictures please!!! 
To be honest, finding the metallic paper at my place was pure luck. I tested three different kinds of coated sheet and chose what worked and looked best. I was very surprised to see that all pages went through my printer without problems. Unfortunately the sheets didn't came in a box or packaging, so I'm unable to say what grammature they have and who manufactured them.
Level 3: Main body and internal skeleton. I guess you already know how it looks, but here it is - in silver! 
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It is really coming together BEAUTIFULLY!!!
That metallic paper is really making the model POP!!!
I REALLY NEED TO FIND A PLACE HERE WHO SELLS SUCH!!!wall1wall1wall1
That metallic paper is really making the model POP!!!
I REALLY NEED TO FIND A PLACE HERE WHO SELLS SUCH!!!wall1wall1wall1
You could order it online. But I would always test one sheet before buying a package and then realising that the sheets don't go through your printer or that the ink doesn't stay where it is supposed to.
Where do you guys find the time.........
I have to agree, the metallic paper certainly brings out the character of the model...
Nice work so far, R-F.:thumb:
Question: What are you going to do to protect the finish from the elements???
I have to agree, the metallic paper certainly brings out the character of the model...
Nice work so far, R-F.:thumb:
Question: What are you going to do to protect the finish from the elements???
Well, I certainly wouldn't take the model to rainy Amsterdam...
sign1sign1sign1
Just kidding. At the moment I really don't know how to seal the surface of coated card. I don't want to get the surface affected by a coat so that it becomes dull or even darker. But I will put it in a crate after I have wrapped it up in a plastic bag to protect it from dust. I have done so with my other models and they look so clean and fresh as if they had been built a few days ago (even though some of them are about five years old).
I heard from other people that there is a special spray suitable for sealing the surface of ordinary paper models. This procedure is recommended at places with high humidity, such as Brazil (and NL, I suppose :mrgreen: ). You also could try hairspray but I haven't tested that yet, so try this on a piece of scrap paper first.
Anyway, IMO the plans of a paper model are of higher importance than the model itself. Just imagine a flood or an accident (hungry dog
!) which causes severe damage to a model. Without the plans you don't have the possibility to repair or even replace the model.
sign1sign1sign1
Just kidding. At the moment I really don't know how to seal the surface of coated card. I don't want to get the surface affected by a coat so that it becomes dull or even darker. But I will put it in a crate after I have wrapped it up in a plastic bag to protect it from dust. I have done so with my other models and they look so clean and fresh as if they had been built a few days ago (even though some of them are about five years old).
I heard from other people that there is a special spray suitable for sealing the surface of ordinary paper models. This procedure is recommended at places with high humidity, such as Brazil (and NL, I suppose :mrgreen: ). You also could try hairspray but I haven't tested that yet, so try this on a piece of scrap paper first.
Anyway, IMO the plans of a paper model are of higher importance than the model itself. Just imagine a flood or an accident (hungry dog
!) which causes severe damage to a model. Without the plans you don't have the possibility to repair or even replace the model.
Can I suggest a test, if you have a spare sheet over?
The tried and trusted 'FUTURE' floor wax. Pour the stuff neat into a tray, put a clothes peg on two corners of the paper, dip the whole sheet in the liquid wax and hang up to drip dry, like you used to do in the old days when making photographs......
Also, you could try sealing it in this fashion AFTER printing, thereby sealing in the ink.
You will be amazed at what this stuff can do. It is acrylic, water soluble, cleans off instantly with ammonia even after fully curing.
Try it. You might be pleasantly surprised!!!
More info here: http://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html
The tried and trusted 'FUTURE' floor wax. Pour the stuff neat into a tray, put a clothes peg on two corners of the paper, dip the whole sheet in the liquid wax and hang up to drip dry, like you used to do in the old days when making photographs......
Also, you could try sealing it in this fashion AFTER printing, thereby sealing in the ink.
You will be amazed at what this stuff can do. It is acrylic, water soluble, cleans off instantly with ammonia even after fully curing.
Try it. You might be pleasantly surprised!!!
More info here: http://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html
Oh, thanks! :thumb:
I heard this was sometimes used with plastic models to give them a shiny look and to seal the decals.
I heard this was sometimes used with plastic models to give them a shiny look and to seal the decals.
Well you can see some of the possibilities of its uses on the canopy of my Raptor build and also the artificial water on the rock base for the current dragon build. The stuff has endless uses. And it is cheap to buy.
ahh my acrylic overcoat of choice. Futur floor polish, you can even abrush it or airbrush it no thinner needed. Put a wet coat down and it self levels.
I'll give it a try but I don't know if and when I can test it (I still have some unfinished kits lying around, so please bear with me on that). But the tip is great! :thumb: