Buck Rogers in the 25th Century,1/32 Thunderfighter by Martin Saenger

micahrogers

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Hi all,
I found the zip file for the basic kit on a thumb drive, I'm going to print it up and give it a try, but a question before I start. In the instructions it recommends a paper weight of 160 g/m2 being in the US of A with a limited budget and availability, I was able to find some 65 lb stock, which is labeled as 176 g/m2 Will this work?
 

Rhaven Blaack

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Hello Micah,

I have built this model far more times than I can count. However, I still enjoy building it. I have plans for a diorama with a few of the different variants for it.
I am glad to see you tackling it. I would recommend just simple 110# cardstock for it. It works just fine. That is what I use now for (both) it (and most of my other builds). If you wish, you are more than welcome to use my build threads as a guide for help. Not only that, but if you have any questions, I will be more than happy to answer them and give you what ever assistance that I can.
I look forward to seeing how your build turns out!!!
 

micahrogers

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I'm gonna try the 65# since it's what Wally World had for cheap... now to just get my printer working again....
 

Revell-Fan

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I can't wait! This was my first "professional" paper model and this was what brought me from plastic to paper. Martin's way of designing things differs from other designers but once you get the hang of it you don't wanna miss it. This model will teach you a lot about internal formers, hiding seam lines and placing flaps. Have fun! :)
 

micahrogers

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I got the parts sheets printed out onto 65# stock, this equates to 176 g/m2 thinner than my normal 110# stock so we'll see20190806_194022.jpg20190806_194026.jpg20190806_194030.jpg20190806_194035.jpg20190806_194039.jpg20190806_194045.jpg20190806_194048.jpg20190806_194054.jpg

I printed them then gave them a shot of clear acrylic lacquer to seal the inks.

as an aside, the plans wouldn't fit on the page full size so I had to "shrink to fit" will this change anything? other than the final size?
 

zathros

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Rhaven is the one on this model. Good to see you starting it. They are really cool looking models. :)
 

starbuck

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I got the parts sheets printed out onto 65# stock, this equates to 176 g/m2 thinner than my normal 110# stock so we'll seeView attachment 176072View attachment 176073View attachment 176074View attachment 176075View attachment 176076View attachment 176077View attachment 176078View attachment 176079

I printed them then gave them a shot of clear acrylic lacquer to seal the inks.

as an aside, the plans wouldn't fit on the page full size so I had to "shrink to fit" will this change anything? other than the final size?
I have built the model short time ago - I can remember that I also had to shrink the print. If I remember right the shrink-effekt was very small.

Just to mention: There are additional parts (cockpit) available. Will you also use them?
 

micahrogers

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I have built the model short time ago - I can remember that I also had to shrink the print. If I remember right the shrink-effekt was very small.

Just to mention: There are additional parts (cockpit) available. Will you also use them?
This go around I'm just building the basic model, maybe on another build I'll add the cockpit and landing gear.
 

micahrogers

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Still working on the internal formers... I think a shrink to fit phantom showed up, as some of these formers had to be trimmed to fit
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The long formers on the back section were about 2mm too long
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I'll try to get the rest of yesterdays pics uploaded...
 

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starbuck

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The instructions in the zip leave much to be desired, however I am able to figure them out,
nexy set of pics the skin starts to go on...
You are right - the instruction is not always easy to read, but if you check the pictures carefully you will find out everything you need. Furthermore Mr. Rhaven Blaak is a specialist in building this model. Place your question here, and it will be answerd - I am sure.
 

Revell-Fan

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Yep! The pictures in the instructions are essential. Study them carefully, sometimes the parts or their orientation can be mixed up. However, once you know how they go together the build will be a piece of cake! :)
 
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