You're in pretty good shape, for the shape you're in. ~ Dr. Seuss.
@Jacopo1969 In this forum we learn everything from everybody.
I have followed your build thread on this model, and you have helped me a lot, so far. thumbsupthumbsup
A perfect example of this help, was to be aware of how weak and thin, the fuselage parts become while cutting. I think the trickiest and weakest section, is around the frame of the door. I cut out everything apart from around the door frame, just to give it the most support, and this was trimmed out last.
It's time to get things into shape here........
A small tutorial included ......
Getting your balls smooth with water ..... a.k.a - Water-Shaping techniques.
One thing to note before I begin: All of my models are printed on a laser printer. The techniques I use below, have not been tested on inkjet prints, and I therefore cannot guarantee the outcome. But it can be done, (I think,) using pigment ink instead of dye based ink, on an inkjet......
Once both hemispheres were cut out, I tacked the various part strips together with thin strips of masking tape from behind. Use all and any detail and reference lines on the surface of the model, and get these accurately aligned as possible, as well as the top and bottom edges.
It looks something like this when done .......
When I did the water shaping of my Discovery, I used a deflated ball and plastic christmas decorations to shape the command module... http://www.zealot.com/threads/2001-aso-ussc-discovery-one.172205/page-9#post-997064
However, this time I used a very versatile and cheaper alternative to the neighbours kids' ball, (that got kicked over the fence.. ) ....... Party balloons!! They mold into any form ..... 
I blew up a party balloon to the approximate size of the plastic ball. If you place the inflated balloon into one half of the plastic ball and then add the other half, the balloon should just begin to compress as you join the halves.
I placed one hemisphere section, face down, into one half of the ball. I use my fingers, which I lick regularly, to push all the strips of the part into their correct positions, making sure you do not overlap any of the strips. Licking your fingers as you work, begins the shaping process by very lightly dampening the paper from behind.
Once I was satisfied that all was in place, I dampened a piece of kitchen paper with water and wrung it out with my fingers. I then dabbed this over the back of the part. No need to soak it, just damp. You want to see a very thin film of water over the paper surface.
I then placed the pre-inflated balloon in the plastic half, on top of the hemisphere..... I placed a used roll of tape on top of the balloon, which will increase the compression pressure a little more when the ball is joined. It's a tricky balance to get right. Practice it before you commit to wetting the part. Without having to inflate or deflate the balloon, try using bigger or smaller compression pieces, other than the roll of tape, as in this example....
Once compressed, check that everything is as it should be, if not, release the halves and re-seat the parts where necessary and recompress. Tape the ball halves together to prevent them popping apart under the pressure.
Now,leave it alone for 24 hours.....
Then, separate the ball halves, remove the balloon and carefully remove the shaped hemisphere.
It is then a case of back-tabbing the strips together of each hemisphere, pulling the joints as tightly together as possible, but allowing the paper to keep its formed shape without deforming.
FEEL the paper .........
On the left is the result of water-shaping, straight out of the form. On the right, the back-tabbed front hemisphere.....
The front grill section needs to be finalized and a bit of trimming here and there, but I'm happy with that........
Gonna get the back hemisphere up to the same level next.....
Laters!
@Jacopo1969 In this forum we learn everything from everybody.
I have followed your build thread on this model, and you have helped me a lot, so far. thumbsupthumbsupA perfect example of this help, was to be aware of how weak and thin, the fuselage parts become while cutting. I think the trickiest and weakest section, is around the frame of the door. I cut out everything apart from around the door frame, just to give it the most support, and this was trimmed out last.
It's time to get things into shape here........
A small tutorial included ......
Getting your balls smooth with water ..... a.k.a - Water-Shaping techniques.
One thing to note before I begin: All of my models are printed on a laser printer. The techniques I use below, have not been tested on inkjet prints, and I therefore cannot guarantee the outcome. But it can be done, (I think,) using pigment ink instead of dye based ink, on an inkjet......
Once both hemispheres were cut out, I tacked the various part strips together with thin strips of masking tape from behind. Use all and any detail and reference lines on the surface of the model, and get these accurately aligned as possible, as well as the top and bottom edges.
It looks something like this when done .......
When I did the water shaping of my Discovery, I used a deflated ball and plastic christmas decorations to shape the command module... http://www.zealot.com/threads/2001-aso-ussc-discovery-one.172205/page-9#post-997064
However, this time I used a very versatile and cheaper alternative to the neighbours kids' ball, (that got kicked over the fence..
) ....... Party balloons!! They mold into any form ..... I blew up a party balloon to the approximate size of the plastic ball. If you place the inflated balloon into one half of the plastic ball and then add the other half, the balloon should just begin to compress as you join the halves.
I placed one hemisphere section, face down, into one half of the ball. I use my fingers, which I lick regularly, to push all the strips of the part into their correct positions, making sure you do not overlap any of the strips. Licking your fingers as you work, begins the shaping process by very lightly dampening the paper from behind.
Once I was satisfied that all was in place, I dampened a piece of kitchen paper with water and wrung it out with my fingers. I then dabbed this over the back of the part. No need to soak it, just damp. You want to see a very thin film of water over the paper surface.
I then placed the pre-inflated balloon in the plastic half, on top of the hemisphere..... I placed a used roll of tape on top of the balloon, which will increase the compression pressure a little more when the ball is joined. It's a tricky balance to get right. Practice it before you commit to wetting the part. Without having to inflate or deflate the balloon, try using bigger or smaller compression pieces, other than the roll of tape, as in this example....
Once compressed, check that everything is as it should be, if not, release the halves and re-seat the parts where necessary and recompress. Tape the ball halves together to prevent them popping apart under the pressure.
Now,leave it alone for 24 hours.....
Then, separate the ball halves, remove the balloon and carefully remove the shaped hemisphere.
It is then a case of back-tabbing the strips together of each hemisphere, pulling the joints as tightly together as possible, but allowing the paper to keep its formed shape without deforming.
FEEL the paper .........
On the left is the result of water-shaping, straight out of the form. On the right, the back-tabbed front hemisphere.....
The front grill section needs to be finalized and a bit of trimming here and there, but I'm happy with that........
Gonna get the back hemisphere up to the same level next.....
Laters!
Last edited:
)
:King:
