Building Uhu02's Enterprise

Thrusters ahead, Mr. Sulu!

All right, no more lazy bum-ing (sorry for the neologism, Shakespeare is probabling revolving himself in his grave:cry:), and let's start again. I was just taking a break for the Carnival, but it's something I like to see from afar.
Well, I did something I (think I) should have done on the first nacelle. There are two pieces that form the outer port nacelle, #74 and #75. I just decided to glue them BEFORE rolling up each one, so that I would have to roll up the whole thing altogether. This way, the seam is much less noticeable, and final look of the model is greatly increased, IMHO.
If it works, my next post will show them ready.
 

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Paradox

It worked. But not much. You see, the edge limits that UHU02 put on the port nacelle weren't the same as the starboard one, so the pattern suffered a small misalignement (it's about half a milimitter, a little more, put it's noticeable - yeah, I'm THAT PICKY!).
Anyway, I think I'll let this one pass. This time.
Here are the pic. You'll see I have followed Rhaven's and ShadowHawk's suggestions, and did a bit of edge coloring in the starboard warp engine.
And the second pic shows the pattern misalignment. Telll me what you think, please.
 

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Mayday! Mayday!

HELP!!:eek::eek::eek:
It seems that little old clumsy me, as stupid as I can get, did some edge coloring where I shouldn't. This resulted in the paper absorbing the paint and ruining the pattern in the rear end of the starboard nacelle.
Considering that I DO NOT WANT to dismantle it, reprint and start all over, are there any alternatives? The picture I posted here has already some liquid paper on top of the stains. Liquid paper is NOT working, either.
If there's no alternative, I'll just leave that way.:curse::curse::curse::cry::cry:
 

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Oh dear! The ink has soaked into the paper. I doubt you will ever get rid of it.
To save re-building, you could re-print that section on thin paper and make a shroud to cover it ...... Just a thought......
 
Reprint those parts on regular light weight paper and sheath the messed up parts.
 
DanBKing said:
Oh dear! The ink has soaked into the paper. I doubt you will ever get rid of it.
To save re-building, you could re-print that section on thin paper and make a shroud to cover it ...... Just a thought......
Click to expand...

micahrogers said:
Reprint those parts on regular light weight paper and sheath the messed up parts.
Click to expand...

Hey, I loved those ideas, guys, THANKS A LOT! I was about to get some sandpaper and try to sand it off and repaint it, but the shroud in light paper is great! I'll do it tomorrow, since it's past eleven P.M. here.
I'll post some pictures of it when it's ready. YOU GUYS ARE LIFE SAVIORS!:thumb::thumb::thumb::mrgreen::mrgreen:
 
Making mistakes like this is how we learn.
another thing that you could have done was to get some acrylic paint to match the white of the nacelle and (VRY LIGHTLY) paint over it, then blend it in with the rest of the part.
Problem fixed.

Either way you go, GOOD LUCK with it. I am looking forward to seeing the final outcome.
 
If you need a holiday...

Rhaven Blaack said:
Making mistakes like this is how we learn.
another thing that you could have done was to get some acrylic paint to match the white of the nacelle and (VRY LIGHTLY) paint over it, then blend it in with the rest of the part.
Problem fixed.

Either way you go, GOOD LUCK with it. I am looking forward to seeing the final outcome.
Click to expand...
Rhaven

Mentor, I really do appreciate your suggestion, but we're in the middle of carnival here, and it's a major holiday, which means... EVERYTHING is closed. No stores, banks, no nothing. So buying some acrylic paint is not going to be possible...:curse::curse:
I'll have to go with the light paper shroud alternative, though. Nevertheless, I intend to do this as carefully as I've done so far, since this model is very important to me.
One more thing: you're ABSOLUTELY right. This is how we learn. Now I know that edge painting must be done with caution and slowly, because the ink can soak the paper and ruin weeks of work.
I just opened Scribus and Inkscape to try and adapt the files to my needs. Let's see.
Thanks and please keep on following and, MOST OF ALL, advising.

Rogério
 
One thing that I have found that works well for colouring the edges, is water colours paints (used very sparingly almost dry brush painting).

Well enjoy the carnival aussie and do not get too drunk. aussie
 
Testing, 1, 2, 3...

HI

You all know now that I've had a huge setback, because of my stupidity, of course.:cry: Lucky me, my ZEALOT-ians buddies stepped in to assist me in this sad moment, and they've had wonderful ideas of how to solve the problem.
I have manipulated the file to fulfill my needs, and also did some glue testing: one using my regular "styrofoam glue" (transparent, alcohol-based PVA glue); and another with some Pritt stick glue.
As expected, the regular glue has darkened my printing a bit, whilst Pritt didn't. This is what came out.
The first pic shows the printing, and the second shows the glueing tests: the weird pieces that you see in the center of the picture are the ones I've cut to test. The one on top was glued with Pritt, and the other, with my regular glue. Although it seems there's no difference, the bottom one is a bit darker.
 

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Something in the distance...

Hmmm...
I think it worked. I mean, from a small distance (let's say, from quarter of a mile, or close to 400m!:p), you can't see the difference.
So, since a picture is worth a thousand words (in Portuguese we have this saying to, just a bit different: an image is worth more than a thousand words...:cool:), let's stop talking and start showing.
First, I measured how "thick" the patch (shroud) would have to be. And IO had the problem of pieces #82 and #83. solved that by dry-fitting them and drawing their contour with a pencil, to know where to cut it.
After cutting it, I erased all the remaining pencil traces with a white (non-abrasive) rubber (first photo).
Then, I glued the adapted pieces into their places, and took a picture so that you could see the results (second photo). To me, they are far better than expected. Although it's not perfect, it's good enough to bring it back into tolerance range.

A VERY WARM "THANK YOU" TO Rhaven Blaack, micahrogers and DanBKing!!!
 

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I'm working, I'm working...

Hi

Since building the other nacelle is the same as the first one, only in a mirrored way, I'm working, but not showing much.
Anyway, here's today's pic, after my ZEALOT-ian friends helped me out.
 

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Ugh, when I read your prior posts I was going Oh-noooo when I saw the color bleeding but you fixed it awesomely Rogerio.

Though the tips are from others (and very good tips at that) you had to execute them and you did vey well. No one will notice unless you tell them.

I've been thinking about the same problem (color bleeding) when I was choosing what to use for coloring the edges. I picked aquarell pencils and watercoloringpaint.
I treid a little something though to see if I could use that if color bleeding would occur. I uset a small amount of tipp-ex aka typing correction fluid, after that I was able to re-color or paint the lost details. The waterpaint didn't go thrue the tipp-ex and made it save to make corrections. Just a hint for future use maybe.

I'm not at the stage of coloring the edges yet but I will surely be carefull not use use to much water.

Cheers and have a nice carneval !!!

Elko
 
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