Z
Storm Talon
- Thread starter silveroxide
- Start date
As always, you have done a FANTASTIC job!!! The amount of detail that you have put into this model is AMAZING!!! You have taken this model to a whole new level.
As I have always said, I greatly enjoy viewing your thread. Even if I do not get to the point were I can build a particular model(like this one), I still learn so many techniques from threads like this.
Thank you for taking the time to share your work, knowledge, and experience with all of us.
As I have always said, I greatly enjoy viewing your thread. Even if I do not get to the point were I can build a particular model(like this one), I still learn so many techniques from threads like this.
Thank you for taking the time to share your work, knowledge, and experience with all of us.
Z
Zathros
Thanks Threadhead, As I always mention, if just one person learned, enjoyed the build thread, then it was worth the while to have done so.
That is so cute, if it came in chocolate, I'd eat it!!
Zathros, Terrinecold, It may not be sugary and chocolaty, but I believe it came out sweet.
As with Threadhead, the same applies. I was going to design this model but Newobmijbeat me to it. I am glad that he did such a terrific job on the base model. If I had designed it, very few modelers would have been able to build it, Thanks to both Terrinecold and Newobmij for making it happen.
And now, to follow up on more photos of the build. The last photo in the build process is 206 so there are many more postings to go. For some reason, the photo sequence is off so I numbered them. Enjoy and see you all next posting.
Attachments
Z
Zathros
I don't know if you have the plastic model but a nice thing about newobmij design is that he went out and bought the model and designed the paper version by measuring it (with calipers I assumed based on his latest blog post).
So you have a base version to work with which you know to be in proportion with the actual game piece.
I have asked questions to silveroxide in PM which I think would benefit everybody so here it comes again:
Hello Silveroxide, a couple of questions:
1) in the case of the landing craft you mentioned using glue to make the rivets, what kind of glue are you using, what about the stormtalon
2) you paint your model, you mentioned priming in grey in another thread but what about models such as the Talon which are already colored, do you prime them or do you use a transparent varnish to seal the paper before painting.
Hello Silveroxide, a couple of questions:
1) in the case of the landing craft you mentioned using glue to make the rivets, what kind of glue are you using, what about the stormtalon
2) you paint your model, you mentioned priming in grey in another thread but what about models such as the Talon which are already colored, do you prime them or do you use a transparent varnish to seal the paper before painting.
I have two ways of making my models. Like newobmij I buy them sometimes (Exceptions are the Large Baneblades, and flyers.) That is why I like Eli's models. They are very close to scale. Another extreme I go by, is I have the figures and build the model to fit them. Somewhat like my Chariot.
1) The glue I use for them is both Aileens Tacky glue or Elmers White glue and occasions, Elmers wood glue. Sometimes when metal is involved, I use super glue, liquid or gel.
2) When the model is in the line drawing version or If I scratch build it, I will use an automotive primer, Grey for wolfs, or red for blood ravens. In the Talon, I painted straight on the model, I do not spray then with a clear coat but I can do that if needed. One of the reasons, my models do not buckle or wrinkle with the paint, is that I use a heavy gauge card stock, like the kind used for art posters. The width is about the thickness of three 120lbs weight paper. If I were to use a transparent sealer, I would use the matte finish.
Just keep building. With every model you build, you learn a little more. Every model is a learning experience.
Now with the Talon This bunch of photos, show my sticky label method. It also works well with rounded canopies. The paper sticks very well and gives a good adhesion point to the canopies. In this case, I used the flat panel from the pastry case. The plastic is thick enough to allow for a bend. I use a plier that is flat and no ridges so that it will not mar the surface. Once it is bent in the position required, it will maintain its shape and you do not have to worry about it spreading outward. The canopy in the plans is not together so I cut it out and joined it as one whole piece. This allows for a better fit. Without further Ado, here are the pics.
Attachments
The over all glue that I use, is the ever trusty Elmers white glue. I also use Aileens tacky glue and for metal parts super glue. On some occasions I also use Gorilla glue, and Elmers Wood glue, but for this model, it was Aileens Tacky glue. When that bottle is finished, I will go back to Elmers.
Z
Zathros
I just don't have the patience for Elmer's glue. You have the patience of the Saints, and it shows, Elmer's Glue! Amazing! 
:inw:
:inw:
I just don't have the patience for Elmer's glue. You have the patience of the Saints, and it shows, Elmer's Glue! Amazing!
Elmer's glue is very versatile, In the past when I used to scratch build with styrene sheets, I used Elmers every now and then to join flat sheets together and was surprised that it worked. It does have a long waiting time on plastic to set but it does. On another subject, Elmers wood glue was used to join spars under pressure for old wooden aircraft frames and wings. It holds better than screws since the stress point is spread out instead of localized. I damaged a plastic model once when I let the glue drip on it by accident and when I came back from my errand, I found the fuselage warped and melded at the glue damaged area.. Any hows, I learned to use it and always revert back to using it, in my paper models.
And now for a bunch of photo updates on the talon. As you can see, I re-did the vector thrusters my way. I had a hard time lining up the originals so I made them into two sections and rounded and concaved the connectors so that you can pose the vectors in any direction.
Attachments
