- Apr 5, 2013
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Do what give you joy. Except that one thing, you'll go blind!! 
Spaceagent-9 2017 build pic threads
- Thread starter spaceagent-9
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- Apr 5, 2013
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Well, here are some new corrections on the kd7, I still have to re design the upper aft dorsal hull, and probably segment the wings and aft hull into 3 sections.
HAPPY THANKSGIVING everyone!
HAPPY THANKSGIVING everyone!
Here is another page, I will release a build thread later on.
I'm going to re do this one in a x large almost 1/350 scale.
So these build pics were basically just test fitting of updated parts I had to re-draw.
So these build pics were basically just test fitting of updated parts I had to re-draw.
The only thing I learned from this is that I need to make them really really big. Oh and I made a few improvements.
HAPPY THANKSGIVING FRIENDS!
- Apr 5, 2013
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Thank you all! I really am just going to make all my light ups at least 1/350, its just so much easier to do. All the problems I am having with the 1/1000 scale are sealing joins, light boxing and the magnification of the edges in photos. So that eliminates those major
problems. I will build all my printed out sheets and show pics, but no more SFX on them.
https://gph.is/2BqcOtp
problems. I will build all my printed out sheets and show pics, but no more SFX on them.
https://gph.is/2BqcOtp
Ok, so I uploaded the 1/350 scale approx. into resources. it has a grey KD7, a blue KD7, the long standing museum color scheme dark grey and dark purple Kd7 and the TAS Romulan d7. I gave you 3 kinds of making the bulb cannon nose part. One is original, the other is a ball shape that Ron Caudillo drew up, and then Robatelli's, maybe blow up Rawen's 50th anniversary piece if you like that one. Hopefully this will end my obsession with this ship, the fixes I did this week I am satisfied with [still trying to find the elusive bulb nose cannon solution tho].
Ok, I took some masking tape and applied it to the amt Klingon model bulb part.
Smooshed it down and then pulled it off like a gel mask and formed it like it was on the plastic positive part.
Then I cut where I needed to in order to make pieces of card stock bend and form in to the proper shape of the Klingon bulb,
as you can see on this 2D image. Next I will print and cut and glue and hopefully it will be much better than the pieces above
that I just drew free hand.
I will post pics when I get something done.
Smooshed it down and then pulled it off like a gel mask and formed it like it was on the plastic positive part.
Then I cut where I needed to in order to make pieces of card stock bend and form in to the proper shape of the Klingon bulb,
as you can see on this 2D image. Next I will print and cut and glue and hopefully it will be much better than the pieces above
that I just drew free hand.
I will post pics when I get something done.
Here is that piece taped up just to see and it looks worthwhile to keep working on.
- Apr 5, 2013
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I think if you made the bulbous parts in Epoxy, sanded them smooth, rub some oil, then do a wet molding of it, using strips, you'd get a perfect bulb. Otherwise, it will always be a compromise., though you have made an excellent compromise. 
Thank you! I agree, that selling or trading worked, molded parts would be the best answer. But then the fun of trying to make this would be gone. I guess the next effort will be kind of a paper mache scratch build with a tutorial. I wonder if i could shoot paper strands over an epoxy bulb like you said, like they do with carbon fibers? Maybe reverse it and press into a mold? Buy a cheap paper shredder and use that to make my strands with. Modeling clay as a mold and hot glue to fill it makes easy one time casts of pieces
that need to be clear and lit up.
that need to be clear and lit up.