What type of paper to use on uhu02 models

Discussion in 'How Do I...' started by nag, Jun 7, 2018.

  1. nag

    nag New Member

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    Hello,
    I'm sorry if it seems a silly question, for my bad English and if it's not the right place to ask.

    I want to print one of the great uhu02 models. He said on the "how to" that the paper must be 0.21mm thickness. As i don't have a quality printer at home, i have to print it in a copy center, what paper you usualy choose ? 160 gr ?

    Thank you
    Nuno Gameiro
  2. SCEtoAux

    SCEtoAux Member

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    Try 176 gsm - 177 gsm. You can also give some 199 gsm a try. It might be difficult to roll some of the smaller parts. You can try scraping off some of the paper from the back being careful to not harm the printed graphic, or try printing those parts on some 75 gsm - 90 gsm paper.
  3. Revell-Fan

    Revell-Fan Co-Administrator Administrator Moderator

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    I usually use 160 gsm paper for all my builds. However, you are correct. The thickness is more important. To find out the thickness just take a thick block of paper, measure its thickness and divide it by the number of sheets it contains. The thicker the block the more accurate is the result. :)
  4. nero-on-fire

    nero-on-fire New Member

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  5. Gandolf50

    Gandolf50 Researcher of obscure between war vehicles... Moderator

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    0.21 mm is a standard Card Stock... not heavy weight or cover stock.. I use almost exclusively 199 gsm card smooth white and it just happens to be exactly .25mm thick really helps when part need to be layered up to .5mm and up! " I find anything below that I find just a bit too thin for my taste" .. works for everything..and will roll for everything but the tiniest part and those I roll from standard copy paper over a wire or needle and form what I need from that...I have used Heavy weight which was close to 260 - 280 gsm but when you get that thick..it is LAYERED and if you roll or over work it bend etc..It will de-laminate!! and that is a mess plus it is a weak paper even as thick as it is..

    Neenah N-exact index cardstock is great if you can find it.. comes in 250 sheet packs, A4 does not cost an arm and a leg! and stands up to a lot of abuse /water forming / bending ..etc .. European paper weights are far more accurate than here in the US where they still tend to measure by lbs..which tells you absolutely NOTHING much less about how thick it is! Here I can but 3 different 110 lb card stock brands and each will have a different thickness!

    Best if you can look at it when buying and gage the thickness,,, find one you like and can get good results with..and always buy that specific type and brand and you can then also buy online and get better prices! Good Luck..I think we have all been in your shoes a some point or another..;)
  6. zathros

    zathros -----SENIOR---- Administrator Moderator

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    U.S. numbers, I use 110 lb. card stock, and 67 lb. card stock, laminating as necessary. ;)
  7. nag

    nag New Member

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    Thank you all for your answers :)

    As i go print in a copy center, it's almost impossible to measure the thickness of paper.
    Its seems to me that the 160gsm it's a consensus (in this case), so i will givit a try.

    I'll ask to print in 160gsm, laser printer. The worst that can hapen, it's to print again in other paper :)

    Thank you all once more

    Nuno Gameiro
    Gandolf50 likes this.
  8. Revell-Fan

    Revell-Fan Co-Administrator Administrator Moderator

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  9. Rhaven Blaack

    Rhaven Blaack ADMINISTRATOR Administrator Moderator

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    Do not use laser printer. THe ink will flake off. Use an ink jet printer. With ink jet printers, the in will permeate the paper and will not flake off when you manipulate it. I found that out the hard way.
  10. Revell-Fan

    Revell-Fan Co-Administrator Administrator Moderator

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    Both ways have advantages and disadantages. Laser prints tend to be sharper because the ink does not sink into the paper but this is exactly what causes the flaking. Ink jet prints can be manipulated better but the colours may fade because of the sunlight. The quality of the paper itself may be important, too. Try to get acid free and UV resistant paper. I use 160 gsm paper which is labelled as FSC C004423 (mixed paper from responsible sources), elementary chlorine free, permanent paper (DIN ISO 9706) and environmental management (DIN ISO 14001). I'm sure there are similar offerings in your country. :)
  11. Gandolf50

    Gandolf50 Researcher of obscure between war vehicles... Moderator

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    160GSM will do just fine..but absolutely INKJET... if your copy places are like some we have they have the printers available.. for a DO-IT -YOURSELF

    ..but as a side NOTE: go out and make friends with someone who owns a printer! Or find one cheap!
    You did a great job in the models you posted on your INTRO..so whatever Card you used for those..will work just fine!! BUT: access to a printer will be invaluable as you continue with this hobby! It comes in really handy when..Like myself, I screw up a part, and have to reprint it !!! ;)
  12. nag

    nag New Member

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    Right now i don't have access to any ink jet printer. I'll to have by one, not only for papercraft, but i'll have to wait a bit for buy one :(

    At the copy center they only have laser printers. I already ask to printer the Viper uhu02 model. The quality of the print it's outstanding, but if will work fine when i start to bend and scroll the paper....lets wait to see ;)

    The models that i've made so far were printed in a "Solid Ink Printer" that i have access at my job. The quality it's fantastic (we use it to print medical images), but for papercraft it have some disadvantages. The paint leaves some texture, and to work with very small parts is not the best (the paint seems to break). Another problem, it's if I am not careful when passing the metal ruler over the image, the ink starts to come out.

    Thank you all for your answers and advices :)
    Nuno Gameiro
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  13. Revell-Fan

    Revell-Fan Co-Administrator Administrator Moderator

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    Just give it a try. You may disguise any defects as battle-damage later-on. ;)
    Cybergrinder likes this.
  14. Rhaven Blaack

    Rhaven Blaack ADMINISTRATOR Administrator Moderator

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    I look forward to seeing how it turns out.
    Cybergrinder likes this.
  15. zathros

    zathros -----SENIOR---- Administrator Moderator

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    Inkjets only fade is you use a printer that uses Dye based Ink. Printers that use Pigment Based Ink will not fade from U.V. rays. I have gone into this is such great detail, so many times, but the short of it is purchase of any printer should be based on if it uses Pigment Ink or not. Pigment based ink is considered Archival, 100 years at least. I have seen too many model printed with lasers printers flake off, and look horrid, not much to show for after much work.
  16. spaceagent-9

    spaceagent-9 Right Hand Man and Confidant Moderator

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    my best shot at this question is to think about what looked nice after it was built, how UHU02 designs his models, bend curves etc... and then what kind of clear coat to use on the finished product. if the model has complex curves in it, go with a thinner paper and clear coat the sheet before cutting. Since you don't want a crack and slide event with the ink, I agree with Zathros, and do not use an inkjet. Then clear coat the model after building, use colored pens or pencils of your choice to match sections and color the edge seams. you might as well build a few BW or color if you have the ink, so you know the model well. I corrected a few of my models this week due to time I gained from scheduling problems, did some recolors and now I am going to throw away what I have done, happy with the experience gained, and start over again, so don't be afraid to build the model a few times for practice and learn what is best for YOU to be satisfied with. Good Luck! UHU02 gives us such great models, it is a pleasure building them.