Star Wars T-74 Snowspeeder - Building Thread 2

Discussion in 'Science Fiction & Fantasy' started by starbuck, Jan 6, 2019.

  1. starbuck

    starbuck Active Member

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    Hi together,
    I did this model some time ago, and by seeing it on the shelf I see a lot of things to make "better". So I decided to build it a second time.
    I am a member of zealot for some years and in these years I got a lot of tips and I saw a lot of tricks, which should help me to make a better version of it.
    If I remember right it was one of my first models and I wanted to have it done in a very short time. I experienced that doing fast is not the best way to build models.
    So enough of blablabla - here the first pictures.
    First pictures of the first version, where some thing are not clean or simply wrong (bottom side).
    The bottom side has no details in this model and I will try to give some to the model by using the model of Bandai as a reference.

    Feedback welcome - as always ;-)

    Attached Files:

  2. Rhaven Blaack

    Rhaven Blaack ADMINISTRATOR Administrator Moderator

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    I am glad to hear that this forum have been able to help you learn new skills and techniques to help you improve your abilities in making models. That is one of the many reasons why I really like it here. There is so very much to see and learn. Not only that, but the senior members here are more than happy to lend a hand and advice when someone needs it.
    There is nothing wrong with rebuilding a model, especially if you have figured out a way to improve or augment it. I too have rebuilt models many times before (I cannot begin to count how many times I have rebuilt the BRTC25 Thunderfighter, and each time that I do, there is always something new to add, augment, or improve on). So, by all means, rebuild away! I will be following this thread. I look forward to seeing how this next build turns out.
  3. starbuck

    starbuck Active Member

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    @ Rhaven:Oh yes - I saw your rebuilds and this is what inspired me to check my previous builds.
    By the way: I never built the Thunderfighter, but it is on my to do list.
    --------------------------------------------------
    I remember a survey some time ago regarding the question of painting the edges. I quoted "no".
    But this model will be the first including painting the edges. I found copic marker do the job very well.
    Question to all who paint the edges: what kind of material do you use to paint the edges?
    ---------------------------------------------------
    As can be seen on picture 4 I used some extra strips to bring the cockpit parts together.

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  4. Rhaven Blaack

    Rhaven Blaack ADMINISTRATOR Administrator Moderator

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    Thank you for the compliment. The Thunderfighter is a fun build. I have found a few more things that I want tp improve to get it that much closer to "screen accurate". When I build the next one, I will point the new additions out during the build.

    Concerning your snowspeeder; It looks like you are off to a very good start!

    As for painting edges, I prefer to use watercolour paint and use the "dry brush" technique. The "dry brush" technique is where you have the least amount of paint on the brush that you can, then run it along the edge of the parts. With this technique, you can mix the colours to get the closest match to the parts that you are working with.
    Last edited: Jan 6, 2019
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  5. zathros

    zathros -----SENIOR---- Administrator Moderator

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    One way to avoid the whole paint edge thing is to file a 45 degree angle and fit them properly. It takes a heck of a lot longer, but in the end, you will be very satisfied, and in the end, that is what really matters. The idea is to dry fit and get a perfect fit, don't use tabs, always use strips, and use a piece of paper stock to set the tab back the thickness of the setback, and you will get the results you want, using a combination of these techniques. ;)
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  6. starbuck

    starbuck Active Member

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    Watercolour is a brilliant idea and cheaper than copic marker. Thx for the tip.
    45 degree angle - wow what an idea. This method seems to be difficult to realize with paper. For building with wood I fully agree.
    I will give it a try somewhen, but, to be honest I often (not always) use the tabs. Mostly tabs work for me, and then this method would not work.
    Nevertheless thx for the feedbacks.
    ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Next: first part of the guns.
    Damn, the parts are not completely round, although I wrapped them around a wooden stick.
    I think someone here mentioned something like using water to soften the paper - will try next time.
    It is good for the moment - and as it gets weathered I thing it will be OK.

    Attached Files:

  7. blake7

    blake7 Member

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    Looking Great to me starbuck from one tab gluier to another. Have a few models I would like to remake from when I first started making paper models too.
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  8. zathros

    zathros -----SENIOR---- Administrator Moderator

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    The 45 degree angle is a reference point, the idea is to get the edges thin, make the edge sharp. This way there won't be any edges to color in. Until you get rid of the tabs, you will almost always have alignment problems. Some of these are built into the model and the tab placement (i.e. tabs in a part that has a radius. The idea is to get the adjoining surfaces on the same plane. Making your own tabs, glued underneath, will give the offset you need, and allow you to trim for a perfect fit. The tab you make will allow the edge and glue to fix the matrix of the paper together for virtually seamless seams. The way you sand the edges is with some "000" sand paper, and a straight edge, be it a table, piece of wood, whatever. This process takes seconds to do. Try one part the way I mentioned, and see for yourself. If you are making the model over again, try some new methods, and take it up a notch. :)
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  9. starbuck

    starbuck Active Member

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    Ok - next steps. Everything is designed very exact. I had troubles to place the rings, so I decided to cut them on one side, which made it more easy - or even possible - to place.

    Attached Files:

  10. Rhaven Blaack

    Rhaven Blaack ADMINISTRATOR Administrator Moderator

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    It looks like it is coming together nicely!!!
  11. starbuck

    starbuck Active Member

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    Thanks, yes it worked well so far.
    I glued the red parts flat into place. By checking the instruction again I noticed that they should not be flat - so I reprinted them and enforced them with cardstock.
    Also for the cockpit I reprinted the frames and enforced the structure.

    Next to come the back part and the fins.
    I was not happy with the outcome on the first try - so I will try something new.
    More within the next days......

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Jan 9, 2019
  12. starbuck

    starbuck Active Member

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    Back again:
    Gun at the backside: I used wooden sticks and painted them in black. I decided to paint the back part in black as can be seen at the model of Bandai.
    The fins: I used the given parts (only one half of it) and glued this part on a thicker cardstock. Then painted black and put in place.
    I think the outcome - compared with my first try - is better. I remember that in my first try it was tricky to create the parts and also to put them into place.

    Attached Files:

  13. Revell-Fan

    Revell-Fan Co-Administrator Administrator Moderator

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    This is looking awesome, mate! :)

    I know I should do it (and often I am asked why I don't). The simple fact is I only have time for building after work and dinner which is about 8+ AM. Of course light is an issue as is my mood. After a stressful day I am glad to finally do something different to ease my mind but then there comes a time when I just don't have the energy for it. Of course, if I have the time and if the topic or occasion is special I would go the extra route and paint the edges. ;)

    That's what I prefer, too. I tried coloured pencils which I dipped in some water; this might work, too, but you have better control of the colour with water colours.
    Last edited: Jan 11, 2019 at 6:09 PM
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  14. starbuck

    starbuck Active Member

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    So final part of the model:
    .....and UUUUUUPS:headbange::headbange::headbange::headbange::headbange:
    yes I remember the parts are not correct. I do not see any way to bring them correctly on the model.
    Pictrue 3 as they are designed to be mounted. (Saw now model or picture that showed me this view.)
    Picture 4 the direction I would like to have them.

    Any ideas or did I do something wrong?

    I remember with my first try I glued as the posisitions are marked and later on I removed it and put it in place but it was not clean.

    (For the small parts I removed all the gluing tabs. Sometimes it is easier to so - do you agree Zathros?)

    Attached Files:

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  15. zathros

    zathros -----SENIOR---- Administrator Moderator

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    Are these the parts in position?

    assy14.jpg assy15.jpg
  16. starbuck

    starbuck Active Member

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    Hi Zathros,
    as you can see on my 4th picture the small corner of both plates is looking to the middle of the speeder, as shown on the instruction photo. And the right one also would fit. If the corner of the left one also shows to the middle the other parts can not put in the place where marked. I hope you can see what I mean in the pictures.
    If you check the template both plates are the exact the same, but to fit they have to be mirrored in some way - I think.
    IMG_5716.JPG
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  17. Gandolf50

    Gandolf50 Researcher of obscure between war vehicles... Moderator

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    So you need to MIRROR the one part to get a R&L instead of the 2 lefts you have...I can do it but explaining it would take more time right now than I have... basically, use Inkscape or PS to load the sheet from the PDF and isolate the part in question and flip X... that is the simple answer!


    Parts.pdf

    Re-send...Picked the wrong one to flip correctly!

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Jan 11, 2019 at 11:27 PM
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  18. Revell-Fan

    Revell-Fan Co-Administrator Administrator Moderator

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    Yep, you are correct. Part 51 is OK, part 55 is supposed to be mirrored. This is why test builds are so important before you release a model. ;)
  19. starbuck

    starbuck Active Member

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    Dear Gandolf50,
    THANK YOU SO MUCH for flipping the part and for giving it to me. Now everything works!
    I had the idea to flip it, but I did not know how. So, your help saved my day.
    Thank you once again.


    Youre right - strange that no one before mentioned this fact, and also the person who created the instruction should have noticed.
    However - happy now :)

    Enclosed the final pics of the last steps and the final model (regarding to the delivered parts).

    Next steps will be:
    a.) thinking how the bottom side can be pepped up and afterwards
    b.) weathering of the model

    Attached Files:

  20. Revell-Fan

    Revell-Fan Co-Administrator Administrator Moderator

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