ok people heres my layout, i have 24 by 9 in witch to work with, the squares are 1ft, the track is o guage and i am using 6by20 on this layout, was thinking the mainline would be higher than the frieght except on the front where the main siding is, this is my first layout so run it through the mill and let me know what wont work and what will, have i left to much room or not enough for towns and industrys thanks jeff
new layout
- Thread starter lawnchoker
- Start date
ok that was the wife not the the train track now the wifes mad and my daughters told what to do will try again
well the picture sure is big enough sorry guys first time ever posted a picture see if next time i can make smaller
I Guess I'll Start Off...
Well, let's see. This appears to be 3-rail O scale. If I'm not mistaken, (but usually am... ) this layout offers lots of continuous running, as well as switching options from BOTH tracks, or even one train all over the darn place! No worries about blocks, reversing loops, etc. That is the inherent advantage of the 3-rail system, isn't it?
Looks like you've designed the layout for longer rolling stock on the "outside line", and shorter on the "inside line". Good idea.
One possible problem. Is this layout to be up against a wall? If so, how would you reach a derailed car way at the back?
That's about it for me.
Have fun.
Well, let's see. This appears to be 3-rail O scale. If I'm not mistaken, (but usually am...
) this layout offers lots of continuous running, as well as switching options from BOTH tracks, or even one train all over the darn place! No worries about blocks, reversing loops, etc. That is the inherent advantage of the 3-rail system, isn't it?Looks like you've designed the layout for longer rolling stock on the "outside line", and shorter on the "inside line". Good idea.
One possible problem. Is this layout to be up against a wall? If so, how would you reach a derailed car way at the back?
That's about it for me.
Have fun.
Jeff -
You can go from the outer to the inner loop in only one place, and in only one direction. Once you go from the outer loop to the inner loop and back to the outer loop, you're stuck on it unless you want to back the train into the inner loop. You might want to consider adding another connection between the two loops, in the other direction than the one you have now, or modifying the one you have so it can be used in both directions.
You can go from the outer to the inner loop in only one place, and in only one direction. Once you go from the outer loop to the inner loop and back to the outer loop, you're stuck on it unless you want to back the train into the inner loop. You might want to consider adding another connection between the two loops, in the other direction than the one you have now, or modifying the one you have so it can be used in both directions.
Jeff ...to appease the wife, you can edit your post and remove the photo.
"it's not how well you do it the first time...it's how well you fix it after you foul it up" ...credit, my drafting teacher
"it's not how well you do it the first time...it's how well you fix it after you foul it up" ...credit, my drafting teacher
hi billk good point am revising the outer loop for both directions, steve the back side is along a wall there will be a space of about 2ft should be enough room, aartwmich thats the first thing i tried to do but dont now maybe shamus can for me, what do you all think about the middle is there enough spacing for buildings between the tracks ? jeff
Jeff:
There should be space for some buildings--depends how big you make them. Can you move the switches for the sidings any closer to that crossing in the middle? That would give you a bit of space between the loop and the siding.
The crossover between the two loops has a bit more wiggle than you really want. Could you run it off the curves on the outer loop?
Watch the S shaped curves. Try it out with some of your cars & locos before you put 2 curves together going opposite ways; it's really hard on passenger trains.
There should be space for some buildings--depends how big you make them. Can you move the switches for the sidings any closer to that crossing in the middle? That would give you a bit of space between the loop and the siding.
The crossover between the two loops has a bit more wiggle than you really want. Could you run it off the curves on the outer loop?
Watch the S shaped curves. Try it out with some of your cars & locos before you put 2 curves together going opposite ways; it's really hard on passenger trains.
Jeff,
Are you running tin-plate on what looks to be O72 and O54? I think if you put two cross overs on the back side, one for each direction it will easy your train operation and be smoother. I would also eliminate the one cross over in the front. Other than that, it looks like an action packed layout. What type of trains will you be running? Looks like you could run some almost scale sized cars and engines on that layout.
Greg Elems
Are you running tin-plate on what looks to be O72 and O54? I think if you put two cross overs on the back side, one for each direction it will easy your train operation and be smoother. I would also eliminate the one cross over in the front. Other than that, it looks like an action packed layout. What type of trains will you be running? Looks like you could run some almost scale sized cars and engines on that layout.
Greg Elems
Make the loops, where they are connected at the top of the drawing, at same elevation. Have the outer loop climb (up or down) around the curves at each end to where the straight section is, at the bottom of the drawing, and make the bottom straight section and it's siding level.
Also, at the bottom where the track curves one way and then the other to get to the straight section, it looks like you have two S-curves, one at each end of the straight. They could be real trouble spots with respect to derailments. You might want to try to figure out a way to get rid of the S-curves, or put a straight section between the opposite curves at least as long as your longest car/loco.
Another thing that kinda bothers me is that the whole layout is symetrical (sp?) The left and right sides are identical. But that's a matter of personal taste.
Also, at the bottom where the track curves one way and then the other to get to the straight section, it looks like you have two S-curves, one at each end of the straight. They could be real trouble spots with respect to derailments. You might want to try to figure out a way to get rid of the S-curves, or put a straight section between the opposite curves at least as long as your longest car/loco.
Another thing that kinda bothers me is that the whole layout is symetrical (sp?) The left and right sides are identical. But that's a matter of personal taste.
cidchase
Active Member
Hi Jeff,
I really like that layout. You can raise the whole center and back side 4 or 5 inches using the two outside curves and still be close to 4% grade.
Then you can have a bridge or trestle along the wall.
Maybe not quite high enough for an overpass unless you lower the ground level there but plenty for a river.
I really like that layout. You can raise the whole center and back side 4 or 5 inches using the two outside curves and still be close to 4% grade.
Then you can have a bridge or trestle along the wall.
Maybe not quite high enough for an overpass unless you lower the ground level there but plenty for a river.
cidchase
Active Member
Bill has good advice there, you know, you could bring that siding rght out to the edge (straighten out those s-curves), curve that straight section in a little on the inner loop, and create room for an access hatch.
What # are the turnouts on your drawing, and are they scaled?
What # are the turnouts on your drawing, and are they scaled?
all the switches are 054, will change the s curves like that idea, like going up hill on outside and wanted to make a bridge on the back side, should there be more space on the back side between inner and outer? jeff
Jeff,
If your happy with it, start building. The idea looks good to me, and the inside loop has a nice broad curve, for those photo opportunities. Now, what kind of cars do you have and what kind of buildings are you planning on?
Greg
If your happy with it, start building. The idea looks good to me, and the inside loop has a nice broad curve, for those photo opportunities.
Now, what kind of cars do you have and what kind of buildings are you planning on?Greg
Hi:
I’d take the crossovers off the back of the layout and move them to the front. Blend the transitions into the curves at each end using a pair of turnouts. If the square in your grid in the lower left corner is “0,0” then a turnout in the inner loop at 3,4 with it’s straight section pointing towards the outer loop and a turnout on the outer loop somewhere around 4,2 with it’s curve pointing towards the inner loop might work. Mirror this at the right side of the layout.
This would allow you to start elevating the outer loop at square 4,2 and by the time you got to the back, at 8,8, you could have some decent height to work with for your scenery. I can see a nice 6’-0” long trestle running across the back of your layout. It takes a lot of length to raise an “O” gauge track 6-7 inches.
You might want to flip the siding at the front, between squares 7,3 and 16,3, to the outside of the outer loop to simplify the turnout situation at each end.
Boy, you sure are luck to have so much space! Have fun with it!
Regards,
Ted
I’d take the crossovers off the back of the layout and move them to the front. Blend the transitions into the curves at each end using a pair of turnouts. If the square in your grid in the lower left corner is “0,0” then a turnout in the inner loop at 3,4 with it’s straight section pointing towards the outer loop and a turnout on the outer loop somewhere around 4,2 with it’s curve pointing towards the inner loop might work. Mirror this at the right side of the layout.
This would allow you to start elevating the outer loop at square 4,2 and by the time you got to the back, at 8,8, you could have some decent height to work with for your scenery. I can see a nice 6’-0” long trestle running across the back of your layout. It takes a lot of length to raise an “O” gauge track 6-7 inches.
You might want to flip the siding at the front, between squares 7,3 and 16,3, to the outside of the outer loop to simplify the turnout situation at each end.
Boy, you sure are luck to have so much space! Have fun with it!
Regards,
Ted