my new layout thread

Discussion in 'HO Scale Model Trains' started by HOtrainman, Jul 31, 2007.

  1. HOtrainman

    HOtrainman Member

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    I am starting a new layout as some of you may know. If you have ever seen any pictures of my layout before, that one is at one of my family member's house in Vermont. I tore it up over the summer, keeping all of it to use the scenery. But because I live in Texas now, I have "Layout Fever."

    So, I have gone to the library and got some books to study up on. I am moving in two weeks or so, and can start it at the new house. I will post progress pictures. I have some pictures of things that will be added on to sections. I am currently making track plans using the Atlas RTS Freeware. I get a one car part of the garage for my needs and wants, there-fore, a layout, work tables, bike shop(BMX), etc. I figured making a 1x2 frame and a masonite top. I will then put foam on top of that.

    I thought about this, maybe not a much track at the bottom, but with a tunnel.

    KEY:blue represents approx. space of garage
    red represents table boundry.

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  2. Nomad

    Nomad Active Member

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    Well, congrats and good luck on the new layout. How big will your layout be?

    Loren
  3. HOtrainman

    HOtrainman Member

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    it is 6x17. at the top will be a couple of tables, my bike, and whatever else.

    the black represents tables

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  4. Nomad

    Nomad Active Member

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    Are the loops against a wall?

    Loren
  5. HOtrainman

    HOtrainman Member

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    no. where the tables are is the wall. the bottom edge of the plan is in the middle of the room("allowed space").
  6. Nomad

    Nomad Active Member

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    Well then, I would suggest getting that complicated track work out front where it will be easier to get at derailments. Two feet don't sound like much of a reach, but it can be if you do it a lot.

    Loren
  7. green_elite_cab

    green_elite_cab Keep It Moving!

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    I might also suggest "trimming" some of those sidings. Sure, its alot of places to put cars, but there is little room for businesses on many of your sidings, particularly in the middle section. Your sidings are also very short, so you may want to simultaneously lenghten the remain sidings. Make sure you know what businesses you want, so you know which stub end sidings to remove, and how to fit them.


    also, the "yard" at the right end is also way to short. only 1 50' or maybe two 40' cars could fit on even the longest track, especially when you need to take into account that the locomotive needs to straighten out before it can couple. I would instead shorten the drill track by removing the staight section between the first switch and the curved section leading back onto the main line.
  8. HOtrainman

    HOtrainman Member

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    First of all, thank you for the advice. Are you talking about the yard at the top right? which is the same at the top left. That is in-case I want to add on.

    _________________________________________________________
    I stop at Home Depot last night after going to Best Buy to get the movie Hot Fuzz.(which is a really funny movie) I went there to look at the price of wood and w/e else. I bought some nails and I looked at what are called "handy panels". They are 2' x 4'. they had some hard wood for like $4.37 each and some like masonite material which was smooth on one side and rough on the other side- almost like cardboard which runs for 2.95 each or so. I figured of getting some which would be about 11 for the table, but don't know which is better.

    here is the plan. on the top right, I didn't want to have a little section all by itself, so I will have extra.
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    I thought maybe they could cut the 2 with the 45 degree cuts.

    I also had a plan which is just a rough scratch so the pieces wouldn't bend in with the weight.
    [​IMG]
  9. Triplex

    Triplex Active Member

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    I think he said that he has access to the layout all around except on the right side... wait a minute, there's 1' between the right side and the wall. That's not going to be too useful.
  10. HOtrainman

    HOtrainman Member

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    I realize this now that you mention it. that area is the garage door though. If I have to I'll open the door. The bottom area is the other spot where the car will go. then the left and top is the wall. which I made a table today for that area.I had some 4' 2'x4' boards that I nailed a block of wood to it about 31" up on each, then I will cut off remaining. the back 2 legs like that will not be cut so I can add pegboard to hang tools and whatever else.
  11. doctorwayne

    doctorwayne Active Member

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    I'm not sure how ambitious your layout plans may be, but I think that you could make better use of your allotted space by moving it to the area where your plan shows storage tables. My layout is very low, but I have an enormous amount of stuff stored beneath it.
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    Put your layout at a height which will allow you to store the bike beneath it, which should also be high enough to give you a (seated) workspace. You could re-design your trackplan to allow for an eventual around-the-available-room type layout, either a dogbone design as you have now, or a point-to-point with a liftout. This will solve your access problems, allow you more trackage with broader curves, and permit more room for industrial buildings, many of which could be "flats" or low-relief structures. This will allow you to use one commercial kit to create two or more industries, saving cash for other purposes.

    If you're planning to use foam for the top of the layout, skip the Masonite panels: they have less structural rigidity than the foam. Instead, space your tabletop framing (1"x3" or 1"x4" pine - don't skimp here by using spruce or other lumber which is not kiln-dried) 16" on-centres. This will give you a nice solid base on which to build. I used regular 2"x4" framing lumber for the table supports, as I had lots of it "left-over" from building my house (careful planning ;):-D). This will be plenty strong enough to allow for storage shelving under the layout, and for supporting an under-the-layout work surface. Also, use screws to assemble the table framing - drywall screws are cheap enough and will work fine.

    Wayne
  12. HOtrainman

    HOtrainman Member

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    what about this plan? Better?

    [​IMG]

    the purple is a mountain.dark blue is water. black is road. light blue building. green-turf.
  13. HOtrainman

    HOtrainman Member

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    ok. over the past couple of days, I got to get some soldering done on the track. I still need to file it down, but at least the track is stiff. I also soldered some wire to it. It is Model Power rainbow line. Here are some pictures.(sorry about the fuzzy pics.)

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    I recently took a trip to Massachusetts/ Vermont (like right on the border) to visit old friends and family members.(about a year and a half ago I moved from Massachusetts to Texas) anyways, I visited my dad and he showed me this spot that he hangs out at with his buddies that he calls "Under the Bridge" It is located in Pittsfield Mass. It is actually near the tracks. there is 2 old fashioned bridges that is made for two trains on each, but a set of tracks were taken off each. then there is one bridge, which is the one they hang out under, that is abandoned. the rails were never removed though. He was telling me that he and his buddy threw some rails in the river below, in which one landed straight up and down. I started modeling the abandoned bridge. it actually had a turnout on it, so it "splits" It is located by a river with water fall. in the summer the water doesn't go over the falls, it goes through a chute just before the fall that brings it out at the bottom of the fall.

    here is picture of the area i am gonna model.
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    here are some pics of the bridge- the one I have started.
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    i was planning on doing this after I moved, but I was looking on this guy's website and saw the bridge.
    site- Stephens Website - Stephen's WebsiteƂ*
    page- ModelRailroading - A Small Bridge
  14. HOtrainman

    HOtrainman Member

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    i mentioned that the abandoned bridge is made for a turnout. here it is.

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    I still need to weather it.

    here is the bridge that will be in service.
    it still needs some weathering and some other details.
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    here is both side by side.
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  15. wickman

    wickman Member

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    Which ever plan your going with make sure you solder the curved tracks as one long piece then curve the track removeing ties as is needed, you will probably find soldering 3 stetches of flex track at a time works well keeping the moving rail to the inside of the curveannounce1