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Discussion in 'HO Scale Model Trains' started by green_elite_cab, Oct 14, 2006.
What engine is this? I think it was the one I got interested in
Looks exactly like my GP-38
This is an Athearn Blue Box GP38-2. I've made several changes so that it matches the normal GP38 of the prototype.
make it shiny, without the logo thingy, and BAM! You have the engine I Idolized as a kid in a train store (what really got me into model trains, I wouldn't stop begging for itsign1 )
lol, i got into model railroading to escape stress from life. I tired building model planes first, and i have never been all that successful. trains seem to work out for me! my first HO train was a lifelike Chessie GP38. I don't really run it anymore. I should one day, just for the hell of it.
i'm working on the said passenger train movie. i may not be able to have it up until tommorow, because right now my track and NJ transit cars are being a pain. I got some cool stuff coming though!
I cry much....
I just ordered a pair of Bluebirds ( U34CHs in EL paint) and one of IHP's GP40fh-2 shells. while my parents definitely seem to agree tha the IHP stuff is somewhat of a high price, i did get a good deal on the U34s. they were more or less $50 each, but came in a set. they seemed to be decked out with working nose markers already ( a job i didn't want to do again after my first U34). one did not have its handrails, but was a custom paint job. I'm not to worried anyway, i can still get said handrails, or make them from wire and stuff. when i recieve the units i'll further evaluate what work needs to be done. I think some of the pilot issues still need to be adressed. It seems as though they are more or less on the same page as my current U34CH. only these have jewels for their markers, instead of stainless steal paint. now i need NJ DOT commuter cars... but i'll buy them next week or so, while they are still on sale on walthers and i can save up some more money.
the GP40FH-2 is naked, but I have the paint and the decals for it. I think that detailing it will be the fun part. right now i'm trying to see if the ladder was molded on, or if it is a part i'll need to install myself. I would definitely like the latter to be the case. i'll have to remove anything i don't like that molded on. I was also thinking about upgrading parts of it with Cannon and Co parts, such as the fans on top. once again, when i get the model i'll evaluate them.
It's a septa train!! and is that a cell phone tower in the background of the trian!? that is a cool addition!
G.E.C. great pictures and good looking layout. I am really wondering how you will setup the catenary wires and what you will use.
I have played around with catenary, but i have had little luck finding a solution i like. originally i followed a plan by someone on the internet to use brazing rods and other materials to scratchbuild everything. i even started this project somewhate a very long time ago when my table was first set up, but i stopped because i didn't all the parts i needed, and i still had yet to finish the inner scenery.
Later on i moved over to the Code 100 rail i had, and i even tried making a few catenary bridges for that spot where the SEPTA train is, so that it would look more complete, consdidering that the scenery there is almost finished. However, my solder gun died out, and my soldering irons were not hot enough to make a good connection. that and i suck at soldering little things like that, lol. again, there aren't many catenary detail parts, so making it yourself can be tough. I'm still trying to figure how i would make my own insulator details.
i have also seriously considered the model memories products, because it looks more realistic. Since i got a job, i have had more money available to me, and i've considered buying a little at a time, and then assembling it when i have what i need. it will cost alot compared to scratchbuilding it, but it will defintely look nicer and be more realistic.
either way, the catenary will be among the last things on the layout, because it will creat an electric fence around my layout, lol. for now, i have more than enough diesels to meet my commuter needs, lol.
here are some pictures of my early catenary attempts.
G.E.C. was just thinking, (try not to do it to much, usually cost me something whether money or more work) would it be worth a shot at taking the structural plastic steel, and scratch building the caternary supports, and then shaping syroform or sponges into the insulators, and getting some black dacron (use as wires) fishing line (dacron has little give) and glue it to the sponge insulators. Not really sure if it can work, but its something to think about.
No, it wouldn't work.
the problem is that you can't use plastic and glue for catenary supports, because it won't be durable enough. some modelers claim that just the forces of the pantographs pushing on the wires is enough to cause catenary made in that way to come undone. even though i personally doubt my HO trains have that much force under them (although the larger scales definitely do), its also easier to damage in that way, especially if you bump it.
all metal construction garuntees great strength. It will be able to hold the wires where they need to be, and they have the added bonus of being able to run current should you want pantograph power. thats why various sizes of rail seem to be the best stand ins for the PRR/NEC type catenary and others. I just need to find some Code 70 and other smaller rail sizes for different parts.
I'm not familiar with black dacron, but i still would use the steel wire for this stuff. whatever i have is slightly smaller then 0.032 of an inch, (some catenary instructions i've seen say that the 0.032 is better, but i think its to thick). Model Memories catenary wire might actually be a better alternative, considering it has the up and down kind of wire going as well, and its not necessarily that expensive.
I am curious about how you would make insulators from styroform.
G.E.C., I commuted in to the city (MTA New Haven), and observed the catenary and insulators. What I noticed was the construct of the supports and noted the insulators are tiny and round. Almost reminded me of a sewing maching bobin (excuse my spelling). But what I was thinking is cutting the styroform into cylinders and paint them white or greenish blue. Please keep in mind this is new to me, just trying to help you.
i know, and thank you for your help!
I'm just trying to figure a good way to do insulators, since they really are the hard part. i think you can buy insulators from sommerfeldt, but they'd be european.
the whole question of accuracy brings me back to the model memories stuff. unfortuneately i don't think they sell those details seperate.
G.E.C. no problem. Might want to check Walthers Catalog if you did not already
AAARRGHHH!!! ( both good and bad i suppose, lol)
my new U34s came in today. One is absolutely amazing:thumb: the other isn't so great .
they were formerly owned by the Bergen County railroad club, and either way they are good models all of their drive trains and motors are in working order.
Erie Lackawanna/ NJ DOT 3351-
this one was the ugly of the bunch. it did not have any handrails, the nose light no good, and painted poorly. It lacked window glass as well. the original owner tried to paint on MU plugs and such, which did no good ( i have already removed this before i took pictures). they also painted over the original paintjob. it is clearly a former NJ transit 4167 ( see my avatar). the paint around the cabs are bad, and the "disco stripes" can be seen as an indent in the unit. on one side, the disco strips and silver paint show through the blue. In addition, the decals are fuzzy, and the red striping is messed up ( but thats ok, i can't do stripes either). It ran beautifully, but its rear light bulb is shattered. the plastic lenses in the headlight has appeared to have yellowed some. the bell is hood mounted, but thats a stock atlas deal. it should be below next to the fuel tanks. they also tried to paint in the corner markers, and while i'm guilty of that to, they could have done better.
however, this person did add MU cables, and the correct style antenna. the paint job does give it a weathered, lighter blue look. it also has EL "safety first" decals on the corners"
the plan for 3351
it will not remain 3351 for much longer. Its going to become one of the NJ transit blue birds. not all U34s got the silver paint. by giving it an NJ transit patch job, i hope to give my U34s variety, and have an example of all of NJ's U34s (or atleast close to it, SEPTA owned an all blue U34CH for a short time. Maybe later:thumb
I have not yet determined which road number it will be, i'm going to have to look for decal sheets with red numbering, as well as striping. I may consider trying to paint in small parts of the red striping, or just removing the trouble spots and use new stripes. the other decals will have to be removed. the description of the item says they are Motive Power decals, so i will have to check them out. I will order a U33C detail kit, new hand rails, diesel steps, and other details like that on my current U34CH. (speaking of which, both this one and my first U34CH unit need a new horn in a new location. the other is already correct.) Maybe later i will add sound. I plan to modify it so that it has the space for the speaker like my other U34CH. another plan is to buy a cannon & Co U-boat cab. I still have the other NP nose light I modified for my first U34CH, so i will attach that one to this unit.
there is so much to do on this unit, but i think it will be fun. maybe i won't even have to just my decal sheets. i wonder if the NJ transit logo is still on the nose of this thing!
Erie Lackawanna/ NJ DOT 3364
This unit is a beauty. Its a stock atlas EL U34CH, that the previous owner did a wonderful job detailing. the person added the atlas stock coupler lift bars, and those will have to be removed. oddly enough, despite the attention to detail, the red "f" for front is missing. the nose light is beautiful, yet not quite as nice as i'd like. the nose light's housing could be better, and so i may remove and its red jewel, and see if I can't hone it down with a file or wet sand paper so that it is closer to the correct profile. the end long vertical grab iron is missing, but thats no big deal. neither is the hood mounted bell that needs to be moved. also weird was a different horn, yet its installed correctly ( i have been reluctant to move the stock atlas horn, which is correct, because i don't feel like drilling holes and adding puddy, ) i have been looking for photos of 3364. it might be a detail unich to it.
those are the only problems i found on the second unit. It already has cab sunshades, antennas, nose grab irons, hanrails ( painted correctly) MU hoses, a correctly placed horn, rear grab irons.
the only problem with all of my U34s are the fuel tank, truck, commpressor and pilot details. the fuel tanks details i sorta over looked, but i think there are kits for it. I'm still working on all of that, and i'll have to see how that comes out in the future. in order to bring these units up to par with mine, they'll need windsheild wipers, wind deflectors, MU plugs, sunshades and some other pilot detials i have, on top of the afforementioned details.
for now, here are some pictures.
the Ebay picture:
My U34CH fleet from left to right- 3351, 3364, 4167
3364- the nicer unit. any prototype photos would be appreciated.
Nice engines GreenElite, :thumb: I'm gettin some new engines for my layout to. Post more pic's Those U34's look really good
3351. if anyone knows which unit this became when it went to NJ transit, i'd appreciat that and prototype pictures as well. I may also go with NJ transit 4172, because it had it's EL diamond on the farewell to the U34CH trip. upon furher research 4179 was still a patch job, but it had a white warnign sticker (and so i can use my current decal sets instead of having to find a special set) and the coupler lift bars match the atlas styles, so i don't have to kit bash them like i do for the other 2 units.
wow, i'm angry. the ebay description said that it had no hand rails. it did have its handrails, except for the the short hood handrail on the engineer's side. I wonder if the people lost it, or something or other. one of the other hand rails is broken though. I might as well try and get new ones.
who makes really really nice handrails?