desoldering rail joints

[stary]

does anyone know of a 100%, sure-fire way of doing this? I tried using the desoldering braid from Radio Shack, but that didn't work. I'm thinking maybe it was that brand. Does anyone know of a better brand, or, like I said, a 100%, sure-fire way of doing it??

 

[ezdays]

We did electronic assembly for a long time and found that the Solder-Wick brand was the best. Occasionally we would get a cheaper brand only to find it didn't work, but putting a bit of flux on the braid helped in these cases.

One other thing, we used water soluable flux when soldering for ease of cleanup. You can buy solder with a water soluable core, but painting a bit of flux on a joint did wonders for the solder to flow with less heat. That's what I did when I soldered my rail joiners and they cleaned up nicely with just water.

Don

 

[railwaybob]

Never thought of putting flux on the end of the soldering wick, but when you think about it, it definitely makes sense.

I prefer the liquid flux over the paste. This is flux in a solution of alchohol. I find this stuff works fast, requires less heat (hence less chance of melting ties), and thoroughly gets into any joints so that the solder flows smoothly.

 

[GNRail]

For electronics I use a "Solder Sucker". It is basically a large spring loaded syringe. You heat up the joint until the solder is liquid and then quickly place the nozzel over the joint and press the button. If you are lucky the first time the solder is "sucked" out and your joint can be worked free.

here is a version that Radio Shack peddles.

http://www.radioshack.com/product.a..._name=CTLG_011_009_007_004&product_id=64-2098

Many people sell these type of units at similar costs. I just picked the Shack as easy example

Combination unit

http://www.radioshack.com/product.a..._name=CTLG_011_009_007_004&product_id=64-2060


Another option is the electric version (basically a vacuum system) designed for this service (see desoldering stations)


Garry

 

[Vic]

Place the tip of a small flat blade screwdriver behind the railjoiner and heat the joint with your iron.

When the solder joint liquifies push the railjoiner past the joint so that it is now fully on the opposite piece of track. Do the same for the opposite side of the joint.

Remove the piece of track that does not have joiners on it and repeat the process on the piece that has the joiners on it.

You'll end up with the railjoiners off and usually there is not enough solder remaining on the rails to matter. Just work quickly so you don't melt any ties.

 

[jon-monon]

I agree with Garry, a solder sucker isthe way to go. It offers the least heat damage and removes the most solder, once the art of rollingthe tip onto the molten solder and hittingthe relese button at the same time is mastered.

if the tracks out and you just want to get rid of excess solder, you can just heat it up and tap it on a hard surface. Safety glasses are a must for anyone in the room. Solder will fly. Get hot solder in your eye, and you'll know what I mean!

"The bigger the blob, the better the job"

 

[jim currie]

i use a thin diamond inpregnated disk in moto too cut through joint than use tweezers on resistance soldering tool to heat and push off joiner ( used regular soldering iron before).