OK,so DCC will run on any turnout,as long as there is no way to short.ill have to check back later.--josh
You might change that statement to, "DCC will run on any properly wired turnout until a short occurs." Short circuits occur on turnouts due to improper wiring/installation in the 1st place, derailments, and because very, very few commercial turnouts implement ALL the best turnout wiring practices (no matter the brand). This is one of the reasons handlaid turnouts shine. You use ALL the best wiring practices from the get-go, and you take the time to make them mechanically sound and accurate. I'm not known for being able to cut wood to even 1/16" precision or solder without leaving big blobs, yet I was able to make a better working and better looking turnout in code 70 rail on my 1st attempt than any Atlas or Peco offering.
Model Railroader, in the June 2007 issue, discusses turnout wiring, and I'm afraid confused the issue by trying to divide turnout wiring into 2 classifications. Unfortunately, the 2 classes don't always hold - there's more than 2 ways used to wire turnouts.
My recommendation is to pick the turnouts you are going to use on well they work mechanically and how well they align with your track plan, and let us help you with how to wire the specific model(s) you have. Give serious thought if you have any inclination in that direction to hand laying at least the turnouts. If need be, the Fast Tracks jigs will hold your hand through the first few. Don't use the turnout wiring scheme as a deciding factor. The wiring scheme is the easiest part to change.
These are my criteria for "best practice" turnouts:
- points are insulated from each other.
- points are quite sharp, and lay tight against the stock rail
- each point is hard wired with jumper wires from adjoining stock rails. Not metal tabs that the points slide over, or hinge grommets and tabs to conduct the power, but actual jumper wires soldered near the hinge point.
- I prefer hingeless points but am not hard over on this point (no pun intended). The prototype uses hinges, but I find them to be an unnecessary source of trouble with rail sizes code 100 and smaller.
- all rail frogs - NO PLASTIC!. This requires gaps to be cut in the closure rails to insulate the frog from the points.
- all rail frogs allow sharp frog points. Sharp frog points work better on accurately gauged turnouts and with accurately gauged wheels.
- powered frogs. Would you leave other sections of your track deliberately unpowered? Even though MOST locomotives can get over a short insulated frog without stalling, why not give your trains (locos and lighted cars) every chance possible for continuous power? A powered frog requires a contact to switch the frog polarity when the turnout is thrown. The other advantage of powered frogs is that the insulating gaps for the frog can be pushed to the closure rails, and an inch (or futher) beyond the frog in the other direction. By pushing the frog insulating gaps a little further away, the gaps have no impact on the mechanical integrity of the frog.
- cutting gaps in both frog rails an inch beyond the frog is the simplest wiring with DCC. Power routing is not needed, and is often unwanted with DCC.
- accurately gauged using the NMRA gauge as a check. Keeping the track gauge to the narrow end of the tolerance at the frog is preferred. Don't expect code 88 wheels (HO fine scale) to run through an accurately gauged turnout without some issues. Of course, all wheels should be checked for accurate gauge, no wobble, and good alignment with other wheel sets in the truck.
yours in switching