Credit Valley Railway progress report

Discussion in 'N / Z Scale Model Trains' started by Will_annand, Apr 13, 2004.

  1. Will_annand

    Will_annand Active Member

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    Progress Report for the Credit Valley Railway

    I finally have ALL the benchwork completed. I decided to put a thin paneling top on the benches for now, I was going to go open grid, but it is easier to lay out the track with a table top on.

    My next chore is to see if the track plan that RTS created looks as good on the table as it did on the screen. Also to see if I left enough room for the structures.

    I don't have a camera (digital camera is on my wish list) so I can't post photos, I will have to talk to my Uncle and see if I can borrow his.
  2. MasonJar

    MasonJar It's not rocket surgery

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    Good work Will!

    Looking forward to those pictures... :)

    Andrew
  3. Matthyro

    Matthyro Will always be re-membered

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    Now the fun begins Bill. Looking forward to further progress reports.
  4. Grantha

    Grantha New Member

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    Congrats Will

    Can't wait to see some picks of your progress.

    :thumb:
  5. shamus

    shamus Registered Member

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    Hi Will,
    Even with a table top type, you can make it a "Cookie Cutter job" and still build below it.
    Shamus

    [​IMG]
  6. Will_annand

    Will_annand Active Member

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    Shamus, you read my mind.

    However in looking at the area I will be covering, the railway was kept relatively level even though the surrounding area was following a river. So I think I wil be using inch wood (I have several small pieces of pine and pressboard shelving in my junk pile) as a subroadbed and have the track range from 2-4 inches above the table. The river will be at "sea-level" or is that "river-level" and the scenery will be up and down. I want the return loop and wye, to be a "hidden return", behind a rise of scenery or in Orangeville, buildings. Therefore it will be at table height.

    The trestle at the "Forks of the Credit" will be 6" above the river and a full 90 degree radius. I am using 11" radius as the norm, maybe this curve will be larger.

    The Downtown Orangeville area will be 2-3 story buildings in the turn of the century "city block" architechture style. Probably kitbashed DPM kits, omitting the walls between four or five kits. Said walls will be used for warehousing/industry around Orangeville.

    I know scenically what I want, and I believe that is my particular forte. Wiring and track blocking is another matter. Here is where I need serious help. Figuring out how to have sidings, passing tracks and yard spurs only "ON" when I want them to be. This is a mystery to me. I am looking for a "Mentor" in that area.

    Anyway, off to work today. have fun.
  7. shamus

    shamus Registered Member

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    This should give you a start on wiring, this is only a make believe plan, but shows how layouts should are wired with Electro (Live frogs) points (Switches)
    If you are just using insulated (Dead) frog points (Switches) then you only need one pair of wires to run the lot.

    Oh, we are not talking DCC here by the way. If DCC is going to be used then the RED switches won't be needed, but the wires from the rails will if electro (Live) frogs are used. Again, if using Dead frogs then just a pair of wires are needed.

    Shamus
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
  8. Will_annand

    Will_annand Active Member

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    Thanks Shamus.

    One question, my switches are all second hand, so I have no idea what they are.

    How can I tell if they are Electro (Live frog) point or insulated (Dead frog) point switches?
  9. MasonJar

    MasonJar It's not rocket surgery

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    Hi Will,

    Time to get out the multi-meter and see if the frog conducts any current. Sometimes you can tell just byu looking, but some turnouts have blackened metal frogs that could be confused with plastic.

    The simplest way to turn your sidings off and on (so you can "park" locos there, is to insulate both rails and then wire them through an on-off switch.

    You can also get into power routing turnouts, but if you ever plan to go to DCC, this may pose a problems for you (DCC prefers all the track on all the time...).

    Hope that helps.

    Andrew
  10. shamus

    shamus Registered Member

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    What make of switches are they. Peco?

    If they are peco, they will have plastic frogs,(Dead frogs) if electro frog, they will be metal (LIVE). In any case with Peco points (Switches) the are self isolating when thrown against a loco. No need for any switches.
    Shamus
    [​IMG]
  11. Will_annand

    Will_annand Active Member

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    Most are Atlas, either the Snap Switch or #6. One is a Peco manual.

    Would it be easiest if I use insulated joiners on both rails of the siding/passing track and use a switch to control power?
  12. Will_annand

    Will_annand Active Member

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    I mentioned I have my layout in an alcove in my living room and someone wanted to see how I did it. So I set up a camera and took a series of shots around in a circle.

    First the bookcase and the south end of the layout.

    [​IMG]

    Then on to the center of the layout.

    [​IMG]

    Next the North end of the layout.

    [​IMG]

    Front Windows:

    [​IMG]

    TV Corner:

    [​IMG]

    More Bookcases:

    [​IMG]

    Comfy Couch:

    [​IMG]

    Dining Room:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    To the right of the last photo is a wall separating the kitchen, the bookcase in the first photo is on the lcove side of the wall. Think of an outside corner.

    That is home sweet home.
  13. Will_annand

    Will_annand Active Member

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    Been working on some detail parts. I found two new places to buy goodies. (Well new to me). :D RSlaserKits and Rustic Rails.

    RSlaserKits www.rslaserkits.com has kits in all the major scales. I picked up a couple of small structures.

    Rustic Rails www.musketminiatures.com has HO and N Structures and details. Cannot comment on the Structures, don't know if I would want Pewter. But the wagon kit I received as a gift went together easy and looks good. (paint job courtesy of my mother).

    Here are two shots of the Livery Structure and Wagon. I was going for the vacant look on the Livery.
    It was my first effort and I really did not know how it would turn out.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    In the last photo, the wagon looked a little shiny, so I gave it a spray with some "Clear Acrylic Sealer - Matte" and it looks better now.
  14. Will_annand

    Will_annand Active Member

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    Time to rip up and start again....

    After two weeks of attempting to install Tortoise machines through foam, I have gone out and picked up two sheets of 1/2" plywood. I am going to take up the track and lay it on the plywood, mount the 14 Tortoises and then cookie cutter it out. I will use the foam to make the terrain.
  15. Jim Krause

    Jim Krause Active Member

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    If you throw out all of those beds, bookcases, tables etc, you'll have lots of space for a layout. Gotta get your priorities straight..
  16. Will_annand

    Will_annand Active Member

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    Very true Jim. sign1

    But my wife would be gone with them... :cry:
  17. Will_annand

    Will_annand Active Member

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    My latest addition to the layout will be an 1880's store.

    [​IMG]

    Still under construction, but thought I would share it. I must say I like those RSlaserKits.
  18. Will_annand

    Will_annand Active Member

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    Here is a shot of life in the 1880's.

    [​IMG]

    Bert has backed the wagon up and Zeke is unloading it. Someone is finally going to reopen the Cooperage. Meanwhile Mrs. Higgins and Mrs. Rosetter are gossiping in front of the General Store and Uncle Joe is sleeping by the Livery while Buttercup tries to escape.
  19. MasonJar

    MasonJar It's not rocket surgery

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    Great stuff Will...! That sepia tone photo looks excellent! :thumb:

    Andrew
  20. Doc Holliday

    Doc Holliday Member

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    Lookin' good Will!
    Doc