I model N scale and after XX years I'm finnaly changing to DCC and building a new layout. which are better to use the peco insul frogs or electric frog?
Alittle help please
- Thread starter pennman
- Start date
cidchase
Active Member
I wuz sorta thinking the same thing... I guess it all depends on your point of view
Anyway, pennman, this site http://www.awrr.com/PECO.html has a pretty down-to earth dissertation on the Peco turnouts. If you have well-distributed pickups, the InsulFrog sounds like the way to go!!:thumb: However, for shorty locos and low-speed switching, you may find yourself getting stalled on the InsulFrog.
As a confirmed and experienced Peco user, I'll say "It depends".
I use Electrofrog. There is a bit extra wiring demanded and a bit extra that is good to have. The necessary bits are insulated gaps (plastic rail joiners or other) beyond the frogs to prevent shorts. You may also find you need to isolate the frog and put a switch on it if your trains short on the points. I prefer the look of the all-rail frog over the plastic.
Insulfrog lets you omit a lot of the insulated gaps. You still need some feeders to take current across crossovers. I like to have the normal insulated joiners to prevent trains trailing through a switch the wrong way. Some people have found that wide wheel treads can bridge the rails at the frogs and cause shorts. Some locos don't like the short plastic section.
I use Electrofrog. There is a bit extra wiring demanded and a bit extra that is good to have. The necessary bits are insulated gaps (plastic rail joiners or other) beyond the frogs to prevent shorts. You may also find you need to isolate the frog and put a switch on it if your trains short on the points. I prefer the look of the all-rail frog over the plastic.
Insulfrog lets you omit a lot of the insulated gaps. You still need some feeders to take current across crossovers. I like to have the normal insulated joiners to prevent trains trailing through a switch the wrong way. Some people have found that wide wheel treads can bridge the rails at the frogs and cause shorts. Some locos don't like the short plastic section.
wiring??
How much extra wiring is needed or are we just talking about extra feeders? with the insul frogs I was told you have to modifi the switch to make it work. What do you have to do with the electra frogs?
How much extra wiring is needed or are we just talking about extra feeders? with the insul frogs I was told you have to modifi the switch to make it work. What do you have to do with the electra frogs?
Pennman:
Electrofrog: You have to gap the rails beyond the frog. ("Beyond" can mean right at the end of the turnout or at the end of the siding or after a series of turnouts.) Then you have to add a feeder after the gap. Otherwise, setting the switch will cause a short because the rail runs from one side to the other.
Some people find that they get a short from metal wheels going between the point and the stock rail and touching both of them. I've seen it happen with locos that seems to be to NMRA standards. What you do then is isolate the points from the frog. Some Peco turnouts have a break in the rail with a plastic separator and a wire welded on the underside; these usually have a wire to the frog. Break off the bridge wires and run the frog wire to the switch on your switch machine. The other end of the switch will connect to the two stock rails or your feeders. You may want to wire the points to the adjacent stock rail (I don't; some people insist on it).
Look up Loys Toys web site for much more information and diagrams.
You should not have to modify the Insulfrog points at all to make them work.
Electrofrog: You have to gap the rails beyond the frog. ("Beyond" can mean right at the end of the turnout or at the end of the siding or after a series of turnouts.) Then you have to add a feeder after the gap. Otherwise, setting the switch will cause a short because the rail runs from one side to the other.
Some people find that they get a short from metal wheels going between the point and the stock rail and touching both of them. I've seen it happen with locos that seems to be to NMRA standards. What you do then is isolate the points from the frog. Some Peco turnouts have a break in the rail with a plastic separator and a wire welded on the underside; these usually have a wire to the frog. Break off the bridge wires and run the frog wire to the switch on your switch machine. The other end of the switch will connect to the two stock rails or your feeders. You may want to wire the points to the adjacent stock rail (I don't; some people insist on it).
Look up Loys Toys web site for much more information and diagrams.
You should not have to modify the Insulfrog points at all to make them work.