A B23-7
- Thread starter brakie
- Start date
That looks splendid! I was wondering when modeling companies would come out with high hood units like that (maybe soon they'll have high hood SD40's and 45's...?)
Guys,Atlas also makes the GP38 in the hiigh hood verison as well as the SD35..Oddly Atlas never oftered the GP40 in a high hood..That is sad because NS has high hood GP40s.I could use several GP40s.So,I will be using the low hood GP40-2s instead..Of course these GP40-2s are ex-CR units.I will be posting pixs of my NS GP38S.
brakie said:
I model ho, so forgive my ignorance about n scale, but I wonder if Atlas bodies are available and how expensive they are. I know in ho the kato bodies are available and very reasonably priced. I think a gp 38 short hood and cab would be the same as a gp 40 short hood and cab.
Russ,Atlas does sell N Scale undec bodies for their locomotives starting at $2.00..
I haven't consider doing any shell bashing but,it sounds like it could work.The only concern I have is both hoods is one piece like the Atlas HO locomotives..
I haven't consider doing any shell bashing but,it sounds like it could work.The only concern I have is both hoods is one piece like the Atlas HO locomotives..
brakie said:
Are the running boards part of the body or the chassis? If the running boards are part of the body, you could cut the long hood off a high hood gp38 body, then cut the gp40 body through the cab and running board so that you would have extra material on the long hood of the gp 40 to sand down to fit it to the gp38 cab and short hood. I think some out of sight joiner plates made from thin styrene strips and glued to the inside of the long hood and cab at the splice would strengthen it. If the 1/8 inch of the high hood from a gp38 and a gp 40 are close enough to work, then leaving 1/8 inch of the original high hood on the gp 38 right behind the cab would give you a place to glue in your joiner gusset out of sight. If the price of the shells is $2.00, you could buy $10.00 worth and have 5 of each type to practice on.
Russ,After checking more closely I see that the frame and body as two separate pieces.So,all I will need to d is cut the behind the cab of both units..It looks to be a straight forward switch.