I have seen a couple of these bridges out there on some of your layouts. Any tips on the a/b b/b girders as far as gluing and keeping it all lined up. Thanks
help with cent. valley 150' truss bridge
- Thread starter rogerw
- Start date
It's been a while since I built mine, but I don't recall any real tips on assembling those box girders. If you use liquid styrene cement (I use lacquer thinner) applied with a brush, you can line up the parts correctly while still "dry", then apply the cement to the outside of the joint. This will be barely noticeable when dry - you can polish it with steel wool as suggested in the instructions, but I didn't bother - the paint and weathering makes any marks unnoticeable.
Be very careful when doing Step 9 of the truss assembly, as it's very easy to distort the truss with too much tension on the monofilament line. I substituted separate pieces of .015" music wire, secured only at the top end - I may have placed a small block of scrap bridge plastic at the lower ends to hold it loosely in position.
Wayne
Be very careful when doing Step 9 of the truss assembly, as it's very easy to distort the truss with too much tension on the monofilament line. I substituted separate pieces of .015" music wire, secured only at the top end - I may have placed a small block of scrap bridge plastic at the lower ends to hold it loosely in position.
Wayne
I assembled mine in the same manner as Doc Wayne, but instead of using the monofiliment line, I used black thread supplied by my wife. Even with thread, it is possible to distort the truss by using to much tension, so be careful here.
Merry Christmas everyone!
Merry Christmas everyone!
Thanks Wayne and Gary. When I first opened the box about 6 months ago, I thought to my self no way I can do this. I have not put models together for 35 years or so. I put one of my 72' girder bridges from cent. valley together on sat./sun. just to get my feet wet.:mrgreen: Well a few cuts later (them razor tools are sharp
ops I got one bridge done. I was getting ready to do a second girder bridge I have and noticed that the plastic on the main side got melted, im guessing during the molding process. Emailed central valley at 8:45 am on christmas eve to find out about getting a replacement side. Got a reply at 8:53 am(8 minutes) asking for address so they could send out a replacement piece.:thumb: I will take my time and be carefull on the truss bridge. Thanks again and have a merry christmas. Thanks
ops I got one bridge done. I was getting ready to do a second girder bridge I have and noticed that the plastic on the main side got melted, im guessing during the molding process. Emailed central valley at 8:45 am on christmas eve to find out about getting a replacement side. Got a reply at 8:53 am(8 minutes) asking for address so they could send out a replacement piece.:thumb: I will take my time and be carefull on the truss bridge. Thanks again and have a merry christmas. ThanksThat out-of-service trestle is a really nice touch, Gary. :thumb: It really gives the scene a sense of time.
Wayne
Wayne
Hi...Both of yous guys' bridges are really sharp...I'll have to do a little more work on the footings...I like the stone work on Gary's, and, of course, Doc's is absolutely boootiful..!! I concur on the monofilament line, I did manage to deform one of the trusses ( won't say which....) :cry:
Gary...I'll say the Doc's got a much better eye than me...I didn't see a trestle under the other bridge. It looks great...!! I too am a committed woodworker and a trestle is on my "to have" list for the layout. I'm sure I'll be bugging you guys for tips and info when I get around to it...
Wow guys, those trusses are impressive. Now I'm not sure I want to stick to a dual Walthers set up, or go with my old plan of one CV & one Walthers. The bridges I'm modeling are just ever so slightly different from each other.
I agree. At first glance I didn't realize there was no track on that trestle.
Very cool indeed.
Is it possible to assemble these truss bridge kits off set (or stagger) the sides at a slight angle to each other? I've seen a few local bridges that cross the road at an angle, however the footings are parallel to the road they cross. I'd like to duplicate that look in the distant future. Basically it would look like a parallelogram from the top. Probably require some kit bashing on my part.
Hi Tetters, yes you can build the bridge skewed. You still need to align the vertical girders directly across from each other, so are a bit limited in the angles you can get, at least without major rework. Here is a link to a thread where I built a bridge out of CV girders (did not use the kit, the girders are available seperately) Mine is severly skewed due to the angle of the crossing. Offsetting the girders by just one section would look quite nice.
http://forum.zealot.com/t111758/
http://forum.zealot.com/t111758/
I agree: excellent work, Gary. I don't know how I missed that one the first time around. wall1 You need to post more pictures of your great looking work, especially for our recently-joined Members.
Wayne
Wayne
Thanks Roger, Wayne. Wayne, I had reposted some of my shots awhile back, don't like to keep posting the same scenes. I do hope to have a scene finished soon, and will post lots of pics of it, using the gallery so people will be able to see the pics in a size that looks good.
Well I emailed central valley on monday, christmas eve about a problem with one girder side and got a return email 8 minutes later asking for a address to send replacement part to. Today dec 27 recieved a complete replacement bridge.:thumb::thumb::thumb::thumb::thumb: Thats great customer service.