I love em', wouldn't use anything else! They are easy and accurate, save a lot of time and hassle. Only one thing could be done to make em' better, would be to make em' free !
Ditto. I use 'em a lot too. My only complaint (and it's unsolvable as far as I can see) is that you have to glue your track down instead of using track nails (cause obviously the track nails won't keep the track down on the styrofoam, or they're poking into air)..............
But that's pretty minor. It's not cheap, but really, what is in the world of model railroading (and the time it saves over any other method is well worth the $).
I have to say right up front that I've never used the product, but I asume it is very easy to use. I don't know if there are transistions from level track to the pieces used for the grade. I would think so. And I think the grades are available in 1% and 2%, maybe more. But I can't see using it at its price. I may just be getting set in my ways but would rather use frame benchwork with risers supporting, at any grade I would like, subroadbed of your choice. But I have a feeling I'm a dinosaur.
GAry, I use both methods. I agree the method you use does look better, and provides considerably more options. However, when I can throw down a piece of plywood, and then glue in the WS inclines --- well zoom zoom zoomety zoom ..................
For a neophyte like me, I find it saves a lot of grief, and time.
Don't know what you mean by looks better? Once the scenery is done you can't see either method at that point. As far as not using nails, I never have used them and don't understand really why people would.
I just used balsa wood roadbed, with balswood risers every 6" or so. Also easier to make the transitions at either end of the rise. (but I did goof up a little, and not have enough "transition" at each end of the inclines.)
"Lawd A Mercy"...I must be building my layout for "industrial use". I use L-Girder construction out of 1x4, 1x2 risers, 1/2" plywood sub-roadbed and 1/2" Homasote for the roadbed...but its "rock solid"
My risers are no more than 4", and built on a solid base. I've found they're good with strength, and, due to the balsa, very easy to shape for the transition, and joins and curves.