What to shoot for in a layout design?

I saw right off that radius was going to be trouble for you.
Get yourself a #8 left hand turnout and make your own curved TO.There is an article on doing this somewhere but suffice it to say you will be trimming away pieces of plastic underneath similar to a piece of flextrack.The longer turnout will make this a bit easier than trying to do it with a standard TO.Use your NMRA trackgauge as you tack this down.THIS IS IMPORTANT!! (not yelling,just emphasizing :)
I Have done this and had excellant results.An electrofrog turnout is advantageous here and i would wire it for power routing as per the Wiring handbook.
If the S curve works for you great.As equipment wears in,you may find things change some.Consider easing it now rather than later as a preventative measure. I hope this helps,Lord knows ive needed a ton of it over the years , and still do:D
 
I agree SS,however,it will not operate near as well and will not look good in comparison to a curved turnout.this is not difficult to do and will provide better looks,tracking and operability.
"Faking it" generally means "Replacing it "Later anyways
 
Like what you have done in making an oval appear not to be an oval. I think I would have the diagonal track that goes to the back side actually connect to it, instead of going under it and stay hidden. This would make a reverse loop and require some additional wiring, but I think it would add some to the operational fun. Jim
 
Well, this design still isn't set in stone, but it's pretty much as I presented it. I'm just now putting everything down on the foam.

Reverse loop is a bad phrase for me, I hate wiring and anything related to it so have intentionally avoided that. I've had plenty of opportunities to add a reverse loop and to anyone who wants to use my design, if you can embrace the idea it will give you a lot more flexibility.

The purpose of the 'under' line is to access the rest of the world and it will enter a tunnel and not be visible.

I've since ditched the long siding along the front (right in the photo) since it doesn't really go anywhere and there isn't sufficient room to give it a purpose (industry). Instead, it makes a nice close-up area to add a station or similiar support structure along the mainline.

I'm still battling with siding placement in the inner portion of the loop but will probably have it finalized today. :)
 
David,reverse loop wiring if you are using DCC goes something like this.cut 4 gaps.Attach circuit board under bench.run prewired harness to control panel and attach 4 leads.Pretty simple.
Loys Toys sells ARSC'c for 39.95 and the harness for 5.00
1 thing you need to be aware of though is that all wheel pickup is required on locomotives.not a problem on most of the newer ones and kits are available to convert older units.
 
Hello David,

As Tileguy pointed out it's simple in DCC. For DC cab wiring if you don't have DCC yet it is a bit cheaper but not at all difficult.

Same as DCC cut 4 rail gaps to isolate the loop between the two legs of the turnout. Add a snap relay (Atlas is cheap and reliable) in parallel with the turnout motor (continue the turnout wires to the corresponding snap switch terminals) attach 4 wires to the track from the snap switch (2 from the isolated loop and 2 from the lead). Lead track to power in, cross connect the 4 outlets and continue to isolated track. No toggle switch nonsense or remembering what's been set to what.

To use the loop you run through the turnout and stop then throw the points which throws the snap switch too. This reverses the power to the track you're on so you now have to throw the reverse switch on your control cab and you can then continue on your way.
 
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