What If? Diesel

R

River Run

New Member
Mar 17, 2008
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Well, what we have here is a N&W High Nose Experimental GP18Xac. Here are a few quick shots. Remember, it's gonna be a "what if?" Norfolk & Western unit. The 18 comes from the 1850hp prime mover used from the trade in GP-9. The shell & frame are from a vintage Smokey Valley GP15-I Kit, the dynamic brakes came from an ATLAS GP-38, the cab is Athearn, and the nose is Cannon. I lowered the bolsters on the Athearn trucks to get it down in the weeds. The rear class lights were filled in with Cannon knock outs. Don't know if I'm gonna put others on the rear, N&W was starting to get away from them in the late '70s.
GP15a.jpg

GP15b.jpg

GP15c.jpg

GP15d.jpg
 
How did you lower the bolsters? this has been a problem for my GP15-1 project.

It makes me cry that you use an Smokey Valley GP15-1 frame for a project like this. You don't know how hard it is to find one of those. Its next to impossible, and by sheer luck, i found one the other day. I also ended up paying out the nose for a Walthers GP15-1 that wasn't even a Conrail-based body shell just so i can mount another Smokey Valley Conrail GP15-1 body on it.

I'd almost offer to buy it off you, but I also know there isn't going to be any other frame that will fit your model without alot more modification. Well, if you find anymore, don't hesitate to PM me!

Anyways, its going to be a cool model. I was wondering what a High nosed GP15-1 would look like, and now i know (although your model is a "GP18XAC"). You should get those see through radiator grills, they are worth it. On the real thing, you really can see straight through.
 
I've already replied. As for lowering the trucks, i am wary of this. I have an Article by Jim Six, who also acknowledges the truck height problem in Smokey Valley GP15-1s. He discussed this option brifly, but mentioned that the modeler who first tried it is now having reliablility problems. Because these frames are made of soft metal, Mr. Six went and milled it, taking half the thickness away around the mounting pin and such. Unfortuneately, i don't have a milling machine. Hopfully the, i can finagel those trucks to be lower and still get away with a reliable piece.

I recently ordered a bunch of old Model Railroading articles that discuss assembling the Smokey Valley GP15-1, and so i'll have to wait for them to get here and see what they say.

I have the exact height (although not off the top of my head) of the GP15-1, so i'm going to have to work out how much to cut off.
 
If you go to my board, The Diesel Detailer, there is a guy that offers milling service. You will find the subject there, he is DTI Fan.
 
River Run said:
Thanks guys, I've got almost 30 diesels under construction. The workbench is crowded!
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30! How do you do it?! i'd be insane a that point:thumb: :mrgreen:

I only have about 3 on the bench right now, and if i'm lucky, i'll start building 2 more GP15s. One is already enough for a headache, lol.

How will you ever finish this one?
 
River Run said:
If you go to my board, The Diesel Detailer, there is a guy that offers milling service. You will find the subject there, he is DTI Fan.
Click to expand...

I've been checking out your site for a couple of days now, great site:thumb::thumb:

Since I got about ten projects going myself, I think I will be checking out more often:mrgreen:
 
GP9's had a 1750 hp 567C V16 engine. GP15's have a 1500 hp 645 V12. The difference is the radiator area. In a GP15 the "tunnel motor" area is open. In a GP9-GP18 that area has the air compressor in it. The shorter block on the GP15 allows the air compressor to be moved into the compartment with the engine, opening the area for the "tunnel motor" intakes. A GP38 hood (no "tunnel") shortened to one fan would be much closer to what you are trying to do.

Dave H.
 
Dave1905 said:
GP9's had a 1750 hp 567C V16 engine. GP15's have a 1500 hp 645 V12. The difference is the radiator area. In a GP15 the "tunnel motor" area is open. In a GP9-GP18 that area has the air compressor in it. The shorter block on the GP15 allows the air compressor to be moved into the compartment with the engine, opening the area for the "tunnel motor" intakes. A GP38 hood (no "tunnel") shortened to one fan would be much closer to what you are trying to do.

Dave H.
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Thanks for the update Dave. I was going by what I read on another forum as to the equipment used in the GP15. I don't plan to make any changes to my locomotive though as it is a freelance what if. I did just order some more "CANNON" parts for it. That takes the "CANNON" parts that I've purchased this year to over $400.00 :eek:
 
I've always liked the GP15 hood and the N&W certainly has enough tunnels where a "tunnel motor" radiator might be useful.

I think MR had an article several years ago about kitbashing a model of an engine the SOO kitbashed where they essentially used GP35 hood components to rebuild a GP9 or 18. If you want to see how a prototype railroad approached the problem.

Dave H.
 
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