After finishing my tube of Humbrol extrarez which I found excelent for model making I have run into a problem none of the shops i tried have it so bought two types. Bostik Paper glue, verdict so far. Crap verging on what they call this again a glue no way. and another one that I don't have the can for the brother in law is using and all i can say is may well have ruined the beaufighter for the Malek marathon. my only hope is if the bostik manages to do something I have found Bostik no good for over the years and that is stick.
what glue?
- Thread starter doctormax
- Start date
C
cgutzmer
aileens tacky glue in the gold bottle for me! If you want a quicker grab then go silver bottle. Personally I always mess up the first time and need that couple seconds to shift the part around 
Chris
Chris
S
SJPONeill
Agree on the Bostik especially for their glue sticks - about the only thing they are useful for is stopping smaller pieces blowing off the table.
Still find the good old UHU in a tube is a tried and true performer so long as my fumble fingers don't drape strings of it over the model. UHU is a bottle is thinnner and good for rolls but still need tube UHU to secure the ends of the roll.
What I have yet to find is a good thin solvent based brush-on glue for edge joins, rolls and laminating.
Superglue is good for edges but can soak through and discolour the printed surface.
Still find the good old UHU in a tube is a tried and true performer so long as my fumble fingers don't drape strings of it over the model. UHU is a bottle is thinnner and good for rolls but still need tube UHU to secure the ends of the roll.
What I have yet to find is a good thin solvent based brush-on glue for edge joins, rolls and laminating.
Superglue is good for edges but can soak through and discolour the printed surface.
S
Soaring
Go for the Super glue.
Mkay, not exactly the Super Glue liquid, the Super Glue Gel! It works perfectly. You don't have to wait and it has a precision tube. I personally think Loctite Gel works best on any kind of material.
http://www.loctiteproducts.com/products/detail.asp?catid=15&subid=34&plid=195
It doesn't soak through the paper, or discolor it unlike other Super Glue's such as Krazy Glue.
Mkay, not exactly the Super Glue liquid, the Super Glue Gel! It works perfectly. You don't have to wait and it has a precision tube. I personally think Loctite Gel works best on any kind of material.
http://www.loctiteproducts.com/products/detail.asp?catid=15&subid=34&plid=195
It doesn't soak through the paper, or discolor it unlike other Super Glue's such as Krazy Glue.
Check out the MicroMark catalog (on line or print version). There are more kinds of super-glues than thin and gels. Check out a good hobby shop (you know - the kind that stocks models and supplies)--- they should have three or more kinds.
ive been trying out various glue-dot dispensers from the local scrapbooking store.
I liked the insta grab that water+superglue gave me, but it was far to messy for me.
Only problem i find so far is that the dots arent as strong as a cured liquid and i often have to reinfoce on the inside with tape and laminate fairly quickly as some of the faces tend to lift as the glue dots dont cover the same area as painted on glue would.
But for modeling armor parts or parts that will be laminated heavily, a quick gluedot and tape holds it nicely until the next steps. Cleaner too!!!
I liked the insta grab that water+superglue gave me, but it was far to messy for me.
Only problem i find so far is that the dots arent as strong as a cured liquid and i often have to reinfoce on the inside with tape and laminate fairly quickly as some of the faces tend to lift as the glue dots dont cover the same area as painted on glue would.
But for modeling armor parts or parts that will be laminated heavily, a quick gluedot and tape holds it nicely until the next steps. Cleaner too!!!
I stick to slightly thinned down Elmers Glue-All (Ya know... the white stuff). I thin in down to about 80/20 Glue/Water solution. Alows a more even spread when painted on. Yes, you have to give it a second to set, but i find that it's much less accident prone than using super-glue as well as much easier to clean up.
aileens tacky glue in the gold bottle for me! If you want a quicker grab then go silver bottle. Personally I always mess up the first time and need that couple seconds to shift the part around
Chris
Just wanted to say thank you for recommending that glue. Used it on some mech models that I did and it worked like a charm. Just started out and elmers glue wasn't cutting it lol.
I am trying the UHU glue now, and I am having really good results with it. I think that I am going to stay with it for now on.
I too HIGHLY recommend it!!!
I too HIGHLY recommend it!!!
Any suggestions on where to fine UHU glue?
I've always used Aileen's (all varieties) for all my crafts where white glue is needed. I love the stuff!
I'm curious about UHU but haven't seen it around.
I've always used Aileen's (all varieties) for all my crafts where white glue is needed. I love the stuff!
I'm curious about UHU but haven't seen it around.
Another vote for Aileens. I go back and forth between it, the clear stuff and a Aileens quick dry-pen, and some standard scotch superglue I got from the dollar store. And surprisingly, the superglue isn't that bad. Can't keep the cap on it for crap though.
And I think you're right, noscire8. I just can't recall what it was and it's been awhile since I've had to go to the store and look.
And I think you're right, noscire8. I just can't recall what it was and it's been awhile since I've had to go to the store and look.
Well Ladies and Gentlemen, It looks like I am now sitting with a HUGE servings of HUMBLE PIE and CROW in front of me. 
ops:ops:ops:
I have spoke too soon.ops: After using it on two models. I have found some major problems with it. First off, it is hard to find and it is expensive where I live. Second, it acts like rubber cement and is very stringy. If you are not careful, you can get it all over the place. Third, it dries very fast. I wound up wasting more then I used. wall1wall1wall1 :curse::curse::curse:
In all fairness, there are good points about it. First, it is easy to clean up (because it does have the same traits and properties of rubber cement.). In gluing parts, it does dry fast. The glue dries clear and does not dis colour the cardstock. It does work on "shiny" or glossy" surfaces. It does not warp the paper when laminating.
BTW, I will say, for those of you who swear by UHU and have no problems with it, my hat is off to all of you!!!
I have decided to go back to using just regular white paper glue. IMO, it works just as well as UHU glue and it is half the prise and I can find it easily.
In closing I guess, the BEST GLUE to use is what ever works well for you and your skill level and needs.
ops:ops:ops:I have spoke too soon.
ops: After using it on two models. I have found some major problems with it. First off, it is hard to find and it is expensive where I live. Second, it acts like rubber cement and is very stringy. If you are not careful, you can get it all over the place. Third, it dries very fast. I wound up wasting more then I used. wall1wall1wall1 :curse::curse::curse:In all fairness, there are good points about it. First, it is easy to clean up (because it does have the same traits and properties of rubber cement.). In gluing parts, it does dry fast. The glue dries clear and does not dis colour the cardstock. It does work on "shiny" or glossy" surfaces. It does not warp the paper when laminating.
BTW, I will say, for those of you who swear by UHU and have no problems with it, my hat is off to all of you!!!
I have decided to go back to using just regular white paper glue. IMO, it works just as well as UHU glue and it is half the prise and I can find it easily.
In closing I guess, the BEST GLUE to use is what ever works well for you and your skill level and needs.
A little tip, specially for all the newbies paper modelers like me.
Whatever glue one like best. Be sure to protect the model. Spay the model with artist spray fixative like Crylon Crystal Clear first before cutting. DO NOT use the crystal clear for plastic models or from auto parts stores. Only use the artist fixative that sold in art supplies stores.
I like to lay down 3 coats of crystal clear first before I start cutting things and gluing. Let each coat dry first then spay the next coat. Reason is, I can't build a clean model to save my life. I will somehow get glue smutch on the model no matter what. But, because I coated the paper with crystal clear. I can remove all of the smutch before it is completely dry and harden with a rubber cement pik up clearner. It will pick up Aleene tacky glue smutch like it was never there. But only if I catch it early before the smutch completely harden. If the smutch is thin enough, the rubber cement pick up cleaner can still remove it even if it is harden. I don't know if rubber cement pick up will work on any other white glue. But, works great on Aleene. But, only if I clear coats first. If the paper not clear coated. The cement pick up cleaner could easily pull out the paper surface too beside glue smutch.
Whatever glue one like best. Be sure to protect the model. Spay the model with artist spray fixative like Crylon Crystal Clear first before cutting. DO NOT use the crystal clear for plastic models or from auto parts stores. Only use the artist fixative that sold in art supplies stores.
I like to lay down 3 coats of crystal clear first before I start cutting things and gluing. Let each coat dry first then spay the next coat. Reason is, I can't build a clean model to save my life. I will somehow get glue smutch on the model no matter what. But, because I coated the paper with crystal clear. I can remove all of the smutch before it is completely dry and harden with a rubber cement pik up clearner. It will pick up Aleene tacky glue smutch like it was never there. But only if I catch it early before the smutch completely harden. If the smutch is thin enough, the rubber cement pick up cleaner can still remove it even if it is harden. I don't know if rubber cement pick up will work on any other white glue. But, works great on Aleene. But, only if I clear coats first. If the paper not clear coated. The cement pick up cleaner could easily pull out the paper surface too beside glue smutch.
Attachments
Allen if you coat the model with clear isn't there a problem with white glue not sticking?
Do you use rubber cement as your main type of glue.? What do you like about it? I have tried Uhu and Elmers and ALeens tacky. So far the tacky glues have given me the best results. But I am always looking for new ideas.
Do you use rubber cement as your main type of glue.? What do you like about it? I have tried Uhu and Elmers and ALeens tacky. So far the tacky glues have given me the best results. But I am always looking for new ideas.